3.0 performance head questions.
#1
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3.0 performance head questions.
I'm pretty much 100% confident that the oil leak is the HG so I'm gonna have to do that sometime soon. I was wondering since the head is gonna be off should I have it cleaned and plained?
Also is there anything else I can do that will be worth while, such as a cams or OS valves?
Are headers really necessary on the 3.0? I know that they are not a big help on the 22re. What is a good DD exhaust setup? Dual at all beneficial? There is no CAT (not controlled here)
Intake will already be cleaned up by then, timing belt will be replaced and waterpump is only a year old and will be reused.
Thanks for your help guys.
Also is there anything else I can do that will be worth while, such as a cams or OS valves?
Are headers really necessary on the 3.0? I know that they are not a big help on the 22re. What is a good DD exhaust setup? Dual at all beneficial? There is no CAT (not controlled here)
Intake will already be cleaned up by then, timing belt will be replaced and waterpump is only a year old and will be reused.
Thanks for your help guys.
Last edited by suprathepeg; 12-11-2005 at 04:34 PM.
#2
Headers are probably the single most HP increasing mod for your 3.0. The stock exhuast crossover is extremely restrictive and is known for blowing exhuast valves (namely #6). I certainly recommend headers. Downey has a nice pair of ceramic coated headers for the 3.0.
If I would have had extra $$ during my HG replacement, I definitely would have gone with oversized valves. Low breathability is the number one reason for the lack of power in the 3.0.
If I would have had extra $$ during my HG replacement, I definitely would have gone with oversized valves. Low breathability is the number one reason for the lack of power in the 3.0.
Last edited by ChickenLover; 12-11-2005 at 04:40 PM.
#3
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Originally Posted by ChickenLover
Headers are probably the single most HP increasing mod for your 3.0. The stock exhuast crossover is extremely restrictive and is known for blowing exhuast valves (namely #6). I certainly recommend headers. Downey has a nice pair of ceramic coated headers for the 3.0.
If I would have had extra $$ during my HG replacement, I definitely would have gone with oversized valves. Low breathability is the number one reason for the lack of power in the 3.0.
If I would have had extra $$ during my HG replacement, I definitely would have gone with oversized valves. Low breathability is the number one reason for the lack of power in the 3.0.
#4
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Have the heads milled and if your budget permits, use some ARP head studs. They allow you to get MUCH more accurate torque when tightening them. Check the valvel lash and adjust if needed.
If your looking for more power then the OS valves and some porting would be good. But dont let just anybody port them. Make sure they know what they are doing or you can lose power.
2 1/4 inch single is plenty for the 3.0
If your looking for more power then the OS valves and some porting would be good. But dont let just anybody port them. Make sure they know what they are doing or you can lose power.
2 1/4 inch single is plenty for the 3.0
Last edited by ThomasJ; 12-11-2005 at 05:24 PM.
#5
Originally Posted by suprathepeg
Will I need to do a BL to fit the headers? Are there any other supliers for headers? And what is a good setup after the header? Keep in mind no CAT?
I would recommend a 2 1/4" system. I've heard good things about dynomax turbo mufflers.
#6
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So let me see if I undersand. Headers, eleminate the crossover, custom Y pipe, O2 after Y (is this necessary?), 2 1/4 to a resonator, turbo mufler, 2 1/2 out(will this help?). That sounds a bit pricy, I guess the header is the biggest outlay.
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I'd just order a set of headers (NWOR has real nice ones) then take it to your local muffler shop and have em built up the rest of the system with 2.25" pipe with the muffler of your choice. Yes you need your o2 sensor. For the heads you can get ARP studs but you have to order the studs from dimensions as they don't sell 3vze studs. Call up engnbldr and get some O/S SS valves and get them put in with a 3 angle valve job, get your intake ported and rough polished then send your TB off to get it enlarged. That'll be good for the breathing part.
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#8
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Can you explain intake porting and polishing more? How beneficial is this?
Do most headers us the crossover system? isn't this the weak point in the system? I know soo little about the 3.0, deffinately a different beast from the 2.4.
Do most headers us the crossover system? isn't this the weak point in the system? I know soo little about the 3.0, deffinately a different beast from the 2.4.
#9
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your just makeing the intake passages the air moves through larger and smother to promote better air flow.
IMO its a bit pointless as the motor still has to breate through a 2" square opening at the mass flow sensor. Thats the real choke point not the TB or intake.
well you CAN run dual exhuast down both sides with an H pipe to equize but most dont go to the trouble. as for a week point? its still MANY MANY times better than what you get stock sooooo
IMO its a bit pointless as the motor still has to breate through a 2" square opening at the mass flow sensor. Thats the real choke point not the TB or intake.
well you CAN run dual exhuast down both sides with an H pipe to equize but most dont go to the trouble. as for a week point? its still MANY MANY times better than what you get stock sooooo
#10
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headers do run a crossover/ypipe but its down and out of the engine bay under the truck so it flows alot better then stock, it also gets the heat away from cylinder 6 which tends to burn valves (mostly caused by the extra heat from the crossover/manifold set up)
#11
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I'm running a Borla exhaust and K&N FIPK. FIPK is a waste of money. Borla exhaust is good, worth the money, in my opinion. Sounds great and looks good. Not too loud, but in my opinion it sounds the best. Also, Borla exhaust is one of the toughest products out there. We use them on one of our race cars, and it has never messed up for us, at all.
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