Corporate 10 bolt is a crappy axle - your IFS is stronger. If you really need a SAS, you need at least a built Toyota axle or cromo'd D44.

 

Wow, your a lil outta line there, esp with the "if you don't want to add to it keep your mouth shut". If you re-read her post, you'll see a link she provided. Thats providing more than you did in your post. Might I suggest you take your own advise? And some people don't want to search cuz they want the answer just given to them, it's called laziness.

 

so, going to put downey rears in my girlfriends 4runner in a month or two. Do I really need to run a Panhard drop bracket? As far as I know these (used) coils give only an inch or two of lift...

will be paring that with Rancho 5009s

 

Jay, I'm assuming they give no more lift than the med. duty OME's I put on my 'Runner, and I haven't had the driveline hit the gas tank yet, even with my left rear off the ground and right rear compressed.

The OME's gave me a little over 2" of lift, also. That may have been somewhat due to sagging of original coils, though.

Hope that helps!

 

Anyone know where i can get 2" IFS lift brackets for a 2WD by themselves? I see the parts in all the kits but i'm already lifted 3.5-4" with bj spacers and t-bar adjustments. I just want to be able to relax those t-bars to cut down on some wear and hopefully get my alignments to stay a little longer.

lol, local alignment shop is beginning to hate me now that every other week i'm down there asking to be realigned again.

 

Sounds like you really need a 4" bracket lift and then use the BJ spacers for droop travel.

 

Ive had my coils for two years and its been fine. Tiny bit of driveline rub when im flexed to the max, but barely enough to even rub the dirt off.

 

Anyone know the backspacing of the wheels in the first 2 pics?

Nevermind haha.

 

I've got a 91 runner. The rear sags so bad it's pitiful and the springs are really soft. 2 sacks of horse feed and it looks like I'm towing a house trailer. Yesterday I ran up on a deal on some really nice 15x10 aluminum rims. I had 'em put on, with my half worn 31x10.50's. Nice balloon effect on the tires, but it's only temporary. I want to make sure the suspension is right before I buy tires and have to deal with rub (I HATE rub). I don't do any trail riding or mud bugging. It's a farm truck and a baby hauler. I use 4wd just enough to need it and I do need the ground clearance.

I'm leaning towards 31x12.50 Pro Comps, and from what I've gathered from reading this site all morning, I should be good to correct the sag with a set of OME or Downey HD springs. My only question is, will these tires fit on the front, no rub, without a lift? I want the rear stiffer and taller, as it gets to pull a trailer from time to time, but I don't want or need an overgrown trail rig that my wife can't drive.

I'll only go to 33's if I can't get a decent price on the 31's, but I really don't like the ballooning of the narrower tires on these rims. The reason I'm even going down this road is to improve side to side stability, which is already improved somewhat by widening the stance. I'm hoping the rear springs and better shocks will also help in this area......

So, to repeat the question, will the 31x12.50's fit and if not, will anything need to be done besides a bit of trimming and pinch weld flattening?

 

Well I just finished reading this entire thread...
I know the tires I'm going to get for the Runner 33x12.5
I will be lifting with in the next year or so.
I have only 1 question well 2.
What benefits are there going with a suspension lift over a BJ Kit, besides height? I'm considering the 4-5 Rough Country it's about $800 now.
Can you use both?
I'm not looking to make this super high, just high enough and stable. I probably will not go over 33's (I say that now). The lil lady would not be able to get in if I go higher.

 

redwood - if you 'wheel the truck, you're going to have problems with using a 12.5" tire on a 10" rim. There won't be enough bulge in the sidewall to protect the rim, and you'll be constantly fighting rim leak flats. Don't ask how I know this ....

Lumpy - the rough country lift you're looking at simply relocates the suspension downward, so there's few downsides except the extra load on the frame from the longer lever. All that said, if you on'y want to run 33's, the bracket lift is wasted money as 33x10.50 will fit with no lift ...

 

TC, I was thinking about the lifts this morning. I'm going to 33's mainly for cost right now (may not go up but that may change). I know I can run them without a lift that's why I'm going to them.

Let me see if I'm thinking right. The Suspension lift: Raises the truck from the suspension and does not add any ground clearance, only lets you run bigger tires and depending on the system further travel.
Ball Joint Spacers: give a bit of ground clearance and lift by dropping the control arms and changing the angle of the suspension, thus giving a wee bit of clearance. Down side is that the CV's tend to blow.

Am I thinking right???

My plane is this: run the 33x12.5 Get the 80 series coils in the rear and let her rip for a while!

 

Not really - with IFS, GENERALLY you just "recenter" the suspension. You don't really gain any ground clearance NOR room for larger tires as the suspension still compresses to the same point.

The exception is a bracket lift that relocates the diff and suspension down, which adds ground clearance and room for larger tires, kind like a bodylift, but to the frame, not just the body. The downsides are similar to a body lift - raising the COG and putting leverage on components that aren't designed for those loads.

 

Ok then...When I do decide to get a lift I should go with the BJ spacers and longer axles. So I have a wee bit more of clearance?

 

yea so im looking for a good 6" lift for my 2000 runner if anyone knows any good lifts or sites let me know

 

Ok I installed the FJ80 coils in the back, I used pro comp es9000 for a 4 inch lift kit and a brake extension, I haven't done my front yet because I had no time I will do it today though. But now I have a grinding noise everytime I turn anyone else had this problem?

 

Wrong thread.

I'm in a similar situation, No BJ Spacers installed, but 80's in the back. I'm getting a vibration around 50-65 mph, which I'm hoping is just from the alignment (lack of alignment). My other thought was wheel bearings up front.

I'm crossing my fingers and praying that the noises go away when I get the BJ Spacers installed.

 

I had a quick look at it today and it kinda looks like my drive shaft is off a bit not really sure but I will tell you how it all goes when I finish it today after work.

 

ok so i know what the noise is its my drive shaft hitting my gas tank plate. Every time I turn and the body moves. When I installed my springs the taller one I put on the gas tank side. Is this what you guys do, becaust my R/R tire looks like it sticks out more than the L/R tire does and my driveshaft is off a bit what do I do to correct this??

 

Did you also install a Panhard Drop bracket?