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Old Feb 9, 2016, 10:50 AM
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22re ground wire locations - the guide!!!

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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 04:22 AM
  #81  
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Additional Info on:
NUMBER 3 GND WIRE

I had this hooked up to the valve cover, which makes no sense. As stated, it GNDs the spark plugs. The head cover is sort of isolated from the rest - no real or good GND connection

This is out of an 3K mile old OEM 22-RE engine spark plug. Notice the pitting. It does look a bit large too, the gap.




Engine is smoother, makes a bit more power maybe. The idle is smoother as well. Will check high idle later when off work. (till now I placed it to the ECU bug where you have to set the timing at 3° or even 2°. https://22reperformance.com/faq-diagnostic-info/ )

Putting new plugs in on the weekend, will report back in 3K miles.

Last edited by ev13wt; Nov 6, 2018 at 04:25 AM.
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Old Dec 23, 2018 | 06:44 PM
  #82  
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Thank you very much it took me quite a while to get it but i finally got out of that gas station parking lot! Lol
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Old Dec 23, 2018 | 11:54 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Allysa Chandler
Thank you very much it took me quite a while to get it but i finally got out of that gas station parking lot! Lol
Now check the other ground wires too
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 04:46 AM
  #84  
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So I just bought a 93 Pickup w/22R-E and I went to clean the grounds as I've read that they are pretty important and my grounds/wiring seems pretty different... So far I've cleaned the postive & negative battery terminals, Grounds #3 & 4, and the extra ground I have and immediately, headlights are twice as bright. I had 4 error codes before cleaning disconnecting the terminals, now they are all gone (but I've also only driven a couple of miles since resetting the codes)


I intend to replace terminals in near future as recommended.


normally goes to A/C, but instead mine goes directly below it

should I move this one?




for whatever reason this is not an all black wire like other people have






In another post, I read you should replace two ground connectors above the fuse box in the interior (drivers side) . Mine only has one ground in the interior.


to the right of air filter / air flow meter

Not sure why mine would be wired so differently (I understand very little about car electrical) , I know the previous owner had a head unit installed, he also said there was an subwoofer with a built in amp at some point, but the vehicle no longer has it. Not sure if that could be the reason.

So I'm thinking the only ground I should move to the correct spot is #1? does it matter for the other ones? I also do intend to replace the terminals that go on the battery.

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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 10:02 PM
  #85  
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#1 serves as the ground for the starter, anywhere near it on the block side of the motor mount shouldn't be an issue.
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Old Nov 24, 2020 | 12:16 PM
  #86  
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Chassis* Ground vs Ground to Battery Negative Post.

Good article on why accessories should be grounded to body* ground, not directly to batt3ry nagative.
https://epicenergy.ca/chassis_grounding/
*On our trucks chassis ground really means body ground = to sheet metal of the body. Not ground to the frame. There is no guaranteed ground to the frame/chassis.
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Old Nov 26, 2024 | 12:38 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by toyota4x4907
Oh and without A/C, #1 does bolt directly to the block
Would you have a picture by any chance, because me too I don’t have AC sadly
I just want to see where’s it’s mounted to and how they’re different.

Last edited by KRE2H1; Nov 26, 2024 at 12:40 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2024 | 07:15 AM
  #88  
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I have the EWD manual for my vehicle, and the ground points are shown in diagrams, but the specific location isn't exact. That one just says "right side of engine".
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Old Nov 29, 2024 | 04:05 PM
  #89  
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The ground to the engine block: It attaches where the AC compressor mount attaches to the block, if there' no AC compressor. With an AC compressor, it has a mount, similar to the way the Power steering pump has a mount in the upper left side of the head, but on the lower right front for the block. If there's no AC, the mount isn't there, but the holes where it should go will have bolts in them, just to fill the holes. The ground cable bolts into the lower front bolt hole, and thence up directly to the battery negative.

The battery negative will also bolt directly to the body sheet metal, normally directly in front of the battery, directly behind the headlight bucket.

There is one on the head, bolted to the rear most lifting hook attaching bolt, then up and behind the engine, bolted to the firewall sheetmetal. This one is critical to getting good spark.

The fourth is from the alternator to the power steering pump's mount.

Does this babbling help any?
Pat☺

Last edited by 2ToyGuy; Nov 29, 2024 at 04:06 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2026 | 09:35 PM
  #90  
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Great thread !!

Ive been addressing some things lately that have been neglected. I was having an issue with a very slight sputter revving up the engine and accelerating while driving. I noticed a wire hanging while working on the power steering and asked my friend the dang engine whisperer about it he said it goes to the power steering pump mount. I bolted it down and boy did it make a difference in the way it ran. Had to have something to do with the computer or ignition but it runs great and so smooth now. Now I’m thinking I’ll check all the other grounds and probably make some nice new ones if needed. Might have gained 3 horse power and 2 mpgs. Lol.. all jokes aside it definitely made a nice difference.
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