HappyCamper

Old thread but I just wanted to add, for reference sake, my 93 22RE has ground wire #3 off of the EGR rather than the hoist hook.

gtct10b

not just a good post but an AWESOME post

Glenh865

Thank You a ton for the link!! It's awesome! Just going through, and cleaning or replacing the grounds did wonders for my truck. I had no idea that these were so important, not just random grounds.

mantree

Dose anybody know what ground 2 is for? Mine is looking sketchy and my truck is acting like it is starving for gas

zerokelvin

I have an 85 4runner. I don't see a ground wire coming out of the starter wire "bundle" in fact mine is just one thick wire from battery to starter. Is this ground supposed to go from the + battery terminal to the block? I have a wire going from the negative terminal to the block, is that wrong? Truck won't start btw after rebuild.. numerous hours trouble shooting and it looks like the ignition is getting killed by something AFTER I start it. It will start.. then dies.

RAD4Runner

You still have not reported what you found out about the crimp on the ECU to Injector wiring and the crimp.

Batt Positive to Fuse block, via fusible link wire
Batt Positive to the positive stud terminal of the starter solenoid (here), that you mentioned above.

Batt negative to front-right-bottom corner of flock like you mentioned. This provides ground to the starter via bare, shiny metal of starter mounting.
Batt negative to inner fender, next to fuse block.
Upper rear of engine block to firewall.
Black wire from what looks like alternator harness to ground via power steering mounting bracket (not sure if this is stock location).

zerokelvin

I didn't find out about the ECU to Injector wiring because I've been looking at other stuff with my uncle.
I did just find out that if I keep on the start EVEN THOUGH it starts... the engine continues to run... making crazy noises because the starter is still engaging the fly wheel... but it keeps running. That might indicate something to someone who knows more about this than I.
I'm tired of messing with this as I don't know much about the whole wiring system and it's just irritating me now. This just get's me fired up about the entire auto industry. They build things to fail, make them far more convoluted then needed, etc, etc, so you throw it away and go buy a brand new one for a ridiculous price.
The technology is there to easily make a 8 cylinder giant truck that gets 100 mpg, but they don't, because they want your money. This engine brand new and well maintained could easily reach 500K + miles, but it's attached to a ridiculous system that turns it on.
I'm just going to pay the money for someone that knows what they're doing to get it running. Thanks for the help all.

RAD4Runner

REPEAT: FP and B+ connector: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120/engine-wont-continue-run-304502/index2.html#post52399332

Maybe the ones after the 80s, and definitely not this Toyota... LOL!

Or you can listen to Yotatech people who know what they're doing, and do not have any motivation to come between you and your money.
REPEAT: FP and B+ connector: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120/engine-wont-continue-run-304502/index2.html#post52399332

old87yota

??????????????

Man, if you knew how many complex systems make a 2018 car work, with several computer modules throughout the vehicle that all talk to each other through CAN lines, you would definitely retract that statement.

Toyota (at least through the 1990s) did NOT build things to fail. Toyota built things to last. Remember, these trucks were built at a time where 'murican cars where pretty much garbage after a few years and 75,000 miles (assuming they weren't garbage straight from the factory, which many were). There is a reason why Toyota got its reputation for being reliable and it was NOT from installing a bunch of throw-away parts on their vehicles. Your 4Runner is over 30 years old. How many people thought when they bought these 4Runners that they would be around this long? This was a time where when a vehicle got to the age of 8, you were living on borrowed time.

How many super simple Ford model Ts would make it to 300,000 miles and 30 + years of constant driving?

Parts just wear out and you never know what time or previous owners many have done.

For all you know, you could have a broken wire, corroded connection, or "creative" wiring from a previous owner.

What I am seeing is that your electrical knowledge isn't up to figuring this out right now. This is not in anyway to insult you, but realizing that you may be in over your head. It took me a while to figure out electrical systems and how they work. Those tiny electrons that make every electrical device work are just too darn small to see! Electrical work takes some studying to figure out, since you cannot simply see what is going on with your own eyes like mechanical systems.

If you were anywhere near Avoca, NY, I would recommend South Main Auto Repair, but you are pretty far away.

zerokelvin

Thanks for the words old87yota. I was referring to the current auto industry. I know this truck is unbreakable.. I've owned 4. Only sold them when I was moving around in the ARMY... vehicles that sit around, in storage yards... even on military bases get stolen, vandalized, etc so I wanted someone to have it. These trucks are legendary. I'm not saying that these trucks are throw aways, one offs, built to fail, etc. I'm frustrated with the wiring I'm dealing with and just venting.... and like you said, in over my head on this part of the project. I wouldn't dream of buying a new 2018 vehicle, which is why I put my money into the old toyotas... will last far longer and have more utility than you can shake a stick at. I understand it's extremely difficult to diagnose a vehicle without being in front of it, especially the electrical system. I need someone knowledgeable that can go hands on and we'll figure this out. I truly appreciate all the input from you guys and I've learned along the way. I'll keep the thread posted on progress and will be doing a build write up when it's complete.

scope103

There is absolutely no shame in recognizing your strengths and weaknesses. Or even just acknowledging that paying someone to do the dirty work is sometimes a better use of your time.

Good luck!

old87yota

^^ Exactly!

Please post back (probably on your other thread) when you know what the problem is. I am curious!

RAD4Runner

zerokelvin

I saw a video where they did this to the toyota hilux on top gear.. and it drove away LOL.

Republic77

Bumping this thread with a question. I am putting a 140 amp in my truck and have all the ground points identified.
Should I be upgrading grounds to thicker gauge wiring to accommodate the new alternator?
My reasoning for upgrading the alt. is that I want capability to add components later.
I bought the LCE alt, and the engine is out, what else should I be doing now, to make my life easier later.
Thanks in advance,
John

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Always a good idea to replace/upgrade old grounds. Hidden corrosion can usually be found under the sheathing.

Republic77

Hey Fishguy,
Thanks for the reply! Do you have an opinion as to what sort of gauge increase would be suitable?

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

I found some #4 welding wire on fleabay and that worked for me. As to adding components if you plan on adding higher draw components consider adding a secondary fuse block under the hood. This will make it easier to not disturb the stock wiring and not overload the stock fusible link. Make sure and add a fusible link to any new fuse block if called for. "Wire" is not fusible link material just a heads up. .

Republic77

Thanks, I will look for some new #4 wire, and fashion new grounds.
I will check out adding a new fuse block, thanks for the advice.

RAD4Runner

+1 to this^^^
Do not ever "upgrade the stock "B" alt-to-battery wire and fusible link like many people erroneously do. Those are meant to protect stock circuits.
For a better setup with upgraded alternator, you can remove the stock like Chefyota, Redeth, and I (and possible et al) did here. This would make it easier to add auxiliary circuits while leaving stock circuits protected, such that if anything goes wrong with with auxiliary circuits protected stock circuits would keep truck running.
NOTE: You would have to figure out what wire and fusible link gauge to use for new alt to batt wire based on your own alternator capacity.