as it says, 1986 22re, if you go out and try to start it, the first time you crank on it, it wont do anything, but second time you crank it it fires off. it can be a super fast like two revolution first crank and itll still start on the second try. cold start injector tested good, cold start temp switch tested good, any ideas would be great!!!!

 

you sure its not the connector for the cold start time switch? mine was loose and liked to do about the same thing.

 

i pulled it off and it looked clean and seemed to fit good, my 85 did this when i first bought it years and years back but i cant remember for the life of me what i did to fix it

 

i let it sit for a few hours and went out and cracked the cold start fuel line and it still had good pressure in it, so i assume its not bleeding off, and it starts fine after its warmed up ( i know that basicly leads back to cold start system)

 

Have you tried to turn key to ignition wait a few seconds then crank??

See if it starts then

I have one that does about what your does

 

I had an '86 that did this. It eventually got worse and sometimes wouldn't start at all. It stopped doing it when I added a relay to my crank wire.

 

okay, there are 3 things you need to run a motor (basically), fuel, air, and spark. pull your plugs and set them next to one of the nuts on the valve cover to see if you have spark, thatll be easy. are you sure youre gettin fuel? and then its air, vaccuum test and see if the afm is clean, maybe look at your air filter, but seeing how it will run i dont think its air.

 

Sounds perfectly normal to me...

 

This is a common thing, I believe its the fuel pump just being slow because of how it is wired. Nothing is wrong with the fuel pump, it just doesn't turn on right away, thats why it always starts quick on the second crank but does nothing on the first. I think 4Crawler did a write up on his site on how to fix it.

 

does an '86 have an FP (and B+) in the diagnostic connector? As Alberta4x suggests, you may have a weak check valve in the fuel pump, which allows the pressure in the line to drop with the pump off (your CSI test suggests otherwise, but you'd still get fuel spray from "too low" pressure).

If you have the FP connector, jumper it to B+ (or just the battery), turn the key on, count to three, then start it. If it starts right up you've found your problem (waiting with key-on and no jumper doesn't help, as the fuel pump doesn't turn on until you turn the key to "START").

 

Check the vacuum lines to the fuel pressure regulator.
You have it plumbed to the wrong spot.
Best way to check the vacuum line plumbing is to use the diagram on the underside of the hood.
You can blow through the vacuum lines to verify where they go.
It sounds hoaky but it works.

 

All lines are connected to the rite spots per the diagram on the hood checked it last night. I noticed when it first starts the tach acts funny for a quick second. Gona swap out coil and ignighter tonight see if that helps. Thanks for all the ideas so far!

 

Also, how cold does it have to be for the truck to idle hi?

 

Idle should drop to normal pretty soon after starting unless it is below freezing, not sure how far below freezing it has to be though. Its so cold up here that my truck always idles up for quite a bit when it starts haha

 

well changed the coil and ignighter, and changed the air box lid out with a different one, gona try it again tomorrow night, it dont have the test/check port so i cant hotwire the fuel pump. its just so odd that it wont start on the first try but kicks off good on the second try. getting irratated lol

 

i know the cold start sensor is good, but what about the sensor next to it? thats the ecm temp sensor, could that effect this?

 

I guess I'm just gona swap a bunch of stuff tonight and c how it does

 

Well changed the cold start temp switch just for grins, fixed it! Don't understand how it did but o well!