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I looked around, but didn't see a problem quite like mine, so here goes. Son's '86 4x4 22RE sat for several years, after the fuel pump died. I've replaced the pump, strainer, pump holder, (all the lines had rusted), fuel lines, and the fuel filter. It'll start on the cold injector, then dies. I bypassed the fuel pressure relay, and still nothing. I have power to the injectors. Plan to take a look at the MAF in the morning. Anything obvious I could be overlooking?
Check wiring between NEGATIVE side of injectors to ECU pins 10 and 20. There are crimps that jump all negatives together which get corroded/easy to break:
My COR ohms ok. We manipulated the MAF vane, and it started and ran fine as long as the vane was open. I assume I have a good ECU, good injectors, adequate fuel pressure, spark and power to the injectors. Could it be the TPS? This thing is driving me nuts. Any help is much appreciated.
... it started and ran fine as long as the vane was open....
Why won't the vane stay open on it's own with the engine running? Do you have all the induction plumbing hooked up? (Back in the day, you could run a carbureted vehicle with the air cleaner removed. Not so with Fuel Injection.)
I don't know. I had everything hooked up except the lid of the AF. I suppose it may be staying open to some extent, but can't see it with the lid on the AF. I tried the MAF from my '87 4Runner, and the results were the same. Very confusing.
My 90 pickup with 22RE died on me and would not start. I thought it was the fuel pump so I put a new one on. It wasn't. Started checking everything and came here and saw that there is a relay behind the glove box to kill the pump if you get in an accident (if I remember correctly). That relay was bad. I replaced it and it fired right up.
That's the Circuit Opening Relay (COR), and shutting the fuel pump off is exactly what it's for. Actually a really good safety feature.
It's behind the passenger side kick panel, right above the ECU. Very easy to find, and remove. Unplug the connector, and there's a single screw/bolt on it's top holding it in. Easy to find, easy to replace.
Costs about $65.00 from a dealership. A small price to pay for a relay that could very easily save you, or a first responder, from a horrible death in an accident. I didn't hesitate a moment when mine needed to be replaced.
I bought mine off of Amazon for around 45.00. I was so happy that that was the problem.
Denso 567-0036 Relay
Originally Posted by 2ToyGuy
That's the Circuit Opening Relay (COR), and shutting the fuel pump off is exactly what it's for. Actually a really good safety feature.
It's behind the passenger side kick panel, right above the ECU. Very easy to find, and remove. Unplug the connector, and there's a single screw/bolt on it's top holding it in. Easy to find, easy to replace.
Costs about $65.00 from a dealership. A small price to pay for a relay that could very easily save you, or a first responder, from a horrible death in an accident. I didn't hesitate a moment when mine needed to be replaced.
If rpoz28's truck runs fine with the VAF vane held open, his problem is not the COR. Replacing it will be $65 thrown down the parts cannon.
He needs to figure out why the vane isn't moving (or not moving far enough). Even if it moves far enough to hit the FC switch, if it doesn't correctly measure airflow his truck couldn't possibly run right.
Oh, I agree completely. I was just tossing out what I knew about the COR, as there seemed a lack of information about it. I just wanted to clarify what the COR was and what it does. I wasn't trying to imply that it was the problem.
Definitely need to figure out why the AFM vane isn't opening. It shouldn't take much movement of the vane to make the FC switch. at idle, the vane should be open plenty far enough to make the FC switch. If it's not, why not is the critical question. Is the air plumbing from the AFM to the TB, the large tube, the trouble? The corner pieces are known to develop cracks and leaks, that can cause this. Or if the AFM has been modified somehow, so the switch got shifted slightly, could that be the trouble? Could the air filter be restricting the air flow? Clogged with dirt/leaves/debris of some kind?
Anywho, that's what few things I can think of right off...
Pat☺
To be honest I only saw the very first post when I replied. Not sure how I missed the other responses. Guess I was just thrilled to share what fixed mine. : )
Computer crashed the other day, so I haven't been able to check in. On a whim, I replaced the TPS. It didn't fix the issue either. I have the friend of a friend that was a Toyota tech for years taking a look at it later this week. Darnedest thing I've ever fought with.
The fuel pump was destroyed. The COR ohmed fine and isn't the issue. The spring in the original TPS wouldn't close it all the way so I tried a new one. It's the only thing I've replaced on a whim. I should add that you make a good point. I haven't replaced anything except the fuel pump, filter, pump holder, and the TPS.
I only had 4-5 PSI fuel pressure at the tank, when it should have been around 40-50. The pump I installed was bad. Replaced the pump, and it runs fine.
Aug 1, 2022 | 08:56 PM
