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something I've never experienced before with a starter is it getting stuck on. a couple times now we go to start the 4runner and the starter seems to not disengage. both times this has happened first start of the day. twice in the last couple of weeks. I have resurched it a little and am kinda thinking the solenoid is getting stuck or possibly the battery to starter cable is bad or corrosion. I've got a new battery cable and cheap starter on the way. I was thinking about looking into the solenoid on this one to see what I might find. I may send the starter out to be rebuilt. it is a Toyota starter but already rebuilt who knows how long ago.
I was in the same exact position of not understanding when mine did the same. I found a lot of videos on YT talking about it. The starter contacts wear and can stick. Changing mine out with a cheap Ebay kit solved it.
see post #441 of my thread.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; Oct 19, 2021 at 09:04 AM.
I was in the same exact position of not understanding when mine did the same. I found a lot of videos on YT talking about it. The starter contacts wear and can stick. Changing mine out with a cheap Ebay kit solved it.
see post #441 of my thread.
well new "cheap" rebuilt starter is in. It has a whole different sound. Maybe the old one was really old. We'll see how it goes.
well new "cheap" rebuilt starter is in. It has a whole different sound. Maybe the old one was really old. We'll see how it goes.
correction, it sounded good till I noticed it was grinding on the flywheel. The new "cheap starter " is out and probably gonna be on it way back and the old starter is back in till I get a real starter. It was another one of them parts where they eyeballed the fit and close enough wasn't good. The pinion gear was a slightly different shape and the previous starter sort of pressed in where this one fit kinda loose till you bolt it in.
hanging out by the moon light Friday night at work.
out foliage cruising in Storrs CT and found a nice place to stop and have our pizza. Then cruising around Union.
Last edited by Damion812; Oct 24, 2021 at 06:42 AM.
Good thing I didn't trust the weather forecast for today. It was supposed to be warmer. Yesterday was a balmy 35 with sun so I finally decided to tackle this project. I searched high and low for the replacement of the cable that goes on the inside of the rear drums to the bell crank. When I was last in there I noticed they were starting to fray. The new ones are more of a rod now. This time though I'm not liking the looks of the hardware. I know the drums and shoes are new like the PO stated. They didn't really have rust on them the first time I pulled it all apart and I could read the writing on them. I've got a new set of hardware and shoes on the way. I'll probably do that in the spring time. Let the old stuff go through the salt .
Time to go back in there again. next big project is to go in and replace all the springs, hardware and shoes. I've had all the parts for a while now but haven't gotten to it. Time is now I noticed the bell cranks are sticking again and dragging the brakes. All of a sudden the fuel mileage went up once I released them by hand. 😁
I thought Pat was replying about the munchos😁. they have been a real commodity lately. We always stop at the local chain of convince stores, Cumberland Farms .There is one in Storrs CT then there is the one in Stafford and one on RT 9 in Southern Vermont. This was the go to place to get them but all of a sudden they didn't have them lately. They did pop up at the grocery store during this time though.
We stopped at a hobby store a while back and the guy working there loved the 4runner and mentioned the "poverty caps" I never heard that term it was always "dog dish" ha ha.
Anyway new brake shoes and hardware plus new inner e brake cables are installed. I didn't want to put it off anymore so I was out there in the rain and all. I really thought it was going to stop.
It turns out that it was only the driver side bell crank that was getting stuck. It was really corroded. All cleaned and I greased it up with some marine grease.
Also I went with an AC Delco starter this time. New starter is in and no grinding.
In the "before" pictures of the rear brake area, it looks "moist". Like there was differential lube, or brake fluid, leaking into the drum. If it's diff lube, you may have a bad axle seal, possibly caused by a clogged differential breather.
If it's brake fluid, it might be the cylinder leaking. Easy to check, just push the brake pedal, and see if you get any leakage.
Either way, the after picture look much drier I would check again come spring, at the latest, to see is the fluid intrusion happens again. If so, you will definitely want to solve it. The shoes don't work well at all when contaminated. Recently, I had to have my rear axle seals, and brake shoes, replaced, due to, yes, clogged differential breather. Went ahead and replace the slave cylinders that actuate the rear brakes as well. Won't hurt. I was amazed at the sudden improvement in stopping power. I almost threw my lovely wife through the windshield first time I stopped! Thank goodness for seatbelts. I won't start the engine without seatbelts on everyone.
Just be careful about the leak you had, in any event.
Looking good, though! The munchies made me hungry. My lovely wife won't let me have stuff like that any more. Diabetes suxxors!
Have fun!
Pat☺
In the "before" pictures of the rear brake area, it looks "moist". Like there was differential lube, or brake fluid, leaking into the drum. If it's diff lube, you may have a bad axle seal, possibly caused by a clogged differential breather.
If it's brake fluid, it might be the cylinder leaking. Easy to check, just push the brake pedal, and see if you get any leakage.
Either way, the after picture look much drier I would check again come spring, at the latest, to see is the fluid intrusion happens again. If so, you will definitely want to solve it. The shoes don't work well at all when contaminated. Recently, I had to have my rear axle seals, and brake shoes, replaced, due to, yes, clogged differential breather. Went ahead and replace the slave cylinders that actuate the rear brakes as well. Won't hurt. I was amazed at the sudden improvement in stopping power. I almost threw my lovely wife through the windshield first time I stopped! Thank goodness for seatbelts. I won't start the engine without seatbelts on everyone.
Just be careful about the leak you had, in any event.
Looking good, though! The munchies made me hungry. My lovely wife won't let me have stuff like that any more. Diabetes suxxors!
Have fun!
Pat☺
About time you noticed the munchos 😆
Both before and after shots everything is wet. I sprayed it down with a degreaser to hopefully eliminate any dust. Kinda why I did like doing this job in the rain today. Thanks to them yearly asbestos awareness meetings I have to go to for work. It seems every time I'm about to fall asleep at the meetings they bring up another product manufactured with...... no surprise in brakes though.
Last edited by Damion812; Oct 28, 2021 at 03:48 AM.
I had asbestos front brake pads on one of my motorcycles many many years ago. I switched them out for Kevlar pads, and had to be careful. Those things would make me STOP. I didn't want to go over the handlebars!
I'm glad it wasn't a huge problem with the moisture in the drums.
If you can find any, Kevlar front pads are a real game changer. I don't know about rear brake shoes, but heck, if you can find them...
I just hate changing rear shoes. Stretching those springs takes me forever.
Sorry it took me a while to notice the munchos. I is jealous, cause I can't eat them no more. My lovely wife can, and loves to tease me with them. Needless to say, we don't get those kinds of numbers
Now you're gonna tease me with them, I just know it. The world is out to get me. <sigh>
It is possible all brakes have asbestos in them still today. One of the things mentioned at the yearly asbestos awareness meetings is that it they never did make it illegal to use asbestos in the US. So there is still the possibility of asbestos in brake pads still today. Don't quote me on that not a hundred percent sure it's true though. But by the way I did buy Raybestos brake shoes LOL.
back to the starter turns out AC Delco made in China for Michigan and a Chevy product works. The remanufactured and Mexico starter didn't work. It said in the paperwork it may look different but doesn't work but it really is different. Stay away.
I was really hoping to get a rebuilt starter from a place called Maniac Motors. That's the one we went with for the Echo and it has lasted longer than the original now. I placed the order they refunded my money so I'm guessing they didn't have it. But they do have parts to rebuild the old one.
These are my allies with all them springs in the drums. I have 16 drums to maintain. The rear disk with drums inside on the FJ are just about THE biggest challenge!
I had to look up the video on how the hook part works on the pliers. It's been too long since I used that part. I don't think it could be used on the lower springs of the 4runner.
Yep, I have a set of those pliers. They make it LOOK easy, but they've done a few (million) brake jobs more than I have. I replace the shoes and springs on my 87 4Runner, 20-some years ago. I don't think I had the pliers then. I got them after to do the next brake job I still haven't done
I used a pair of needlenose pliers. Probably why I have such terrible memories of the job. They worked...eventually.
My pickup still has the factory original rear brakes. Not grinding yet, at least, but it only has 375,000 miles on it
Both 87's still have their factory original starters, too, just as an aside. Still crank the engines like a dream. I constantly find the lasting ability of a lot of the factory parts amazing. Here it is 35 years later, and they still run like a dream. Well, the pickup does. Had a small problem with the 87 4Runner, so it's at the shop, waiting for them to fix it. Need to replace the cabin fuse block. I told them to go ahead and just replace the entire dash panel wiring harness.
BTW, often on the starters, it's just the solenoid mounted on it. The contacts and plunger get old, worn, and corroded. Pretty easy to replace, even on the truck. Kits readily available.
I wouldn't get a Chinese made part if they payed me. OEM for me! Each to their own, though.
ROC starter wasn't my first choice but since Maniac motors was a no go that's what I came up with for a fast option. it shows on the Maniac motors website that they have rebuild parts for the old Toyota starter so I was planning taking care of the old one myself. I did consider taking the cheap starter apart for that idea but it's just too different. the description in the paper work that came with it stated that "it may look different but works". ha! I've heard that before. On the up side I can change the starter in 10 minutes now😆
Last edited by Damion812; Oct 31, 2021 at 10:20 AM.
Oct 19, 2021 | 07:21 AM
!!!!
My lovely wife can, and loves to tease me with them. Needless to say, we don't get those kinds of numbers 
