After wheeling a Domestic SUV IFS...

I finally wised up and bought an '85 4Runner last december...

Completely rolled it shortly after doin about 40 (No seat belts) and landing back on the tires ... Can anybody say dumbass . I Drove it home with some carnage and missing the antenna . I was deffinently impressed with the fact that other than cosmetics it ran like a champ and I have been wheeling it every weekend since but now its time to get it back on the road (Legally )

Credits to Josh the PO & what I got for 4000$

Mileage: 167,000 (Rebuilt engine 30,000)
Truck Rebuilt After First Roll (Put in Cage)
Hard Top
Steel Frame Cam-Back (NEW)

Northwest OFFROAD
Cam and Headers
Adjustable draglink
Anti-sway disconnects
SD Tyrod
3.5 inch springs (Rear)
1.5 inch shackles and shim (Rear)

Downey
3 inch springs (Front)
3/4 inch shackle and shim (Front)

Bilstein Shocks
Poly .5 body lift and bushings
Custom all-pro based T-case mounted disc E-brake
FJ-40 vented rotors w/ 95 V6 calipers

Custom
Rock sliders
Rear bumper
Full Interior Roll Cage
Frame - No Rust, urethane painted
Body - Re-done no rust
TJM Front bumper (Bullbar / Winch bumper)
Stainless Lines

This has made for an awesome base for me to start expanding on with everything I've learned from Pirate4x4.com. I've been reading thread after thread on anything and everything for the past few month's and am now ready to start 'attempting' to fab my own shat and pretty much make this truck bomb proof.

Past Weekend... Started Strippin the '87 Donor truck 250$ still runs , trimmed front fenders 2.5" (Rear soon to come), half doors (started), Lots of dent pullin

Before May 20th & Boot Camp ... Diffs. with 5:29's spool in rear (Marlin), Dual t-case adaptor (Marlin), Rear axle swap from the '87 w/ 1.5" spacers for front, Rear springs up front, Rear bobbed ?"s, gussets, Diff. guards, 2" BD, Brace the cage a little more, Clean-up Interior

After Boot Camp... 39.5" Swampers, Either ARB or AussieLocker up front, High Steer (Marlin)

Eventually... 30-spline chromoly super set (Longfieldsuperaxles.com), 4340 Chromoly rear axles (Marlin), 4-Link XX Rear and possibly front, 4.7 gears for second t-case

Goal... Trail ready for just about anything yet keeping the street legality

 

Carnage from the roll, Drivers side is sitting on the roll cage...

Half Doors Being Cut... Made a Few Measurements & Used Tape as a Guidline

Half Doors Mocked Up...

Fender Trimmed 2.5"s... Pic #1
The valence coming off the Brush guard was removed as well...

Fender Trimmed 2.5"s... Pic #2
Bondo Job on the rear quarter panel after pulling it back out 3"s so the tail-light would go back in...

 

Last night I picked up all the shat I need to put in the new windshield in and grabbed some spray on bed liner to re-coat the cage i'll post some pics this weekend. I'm hoping to get the cage pulled and the roof lined back up so tha i can install the new windshield. The rest of this week will be spent finishing up the half doors... Sheet Metal blows to learn how to weld on

 

Has anyone tried blasting the inside of the frame with a Oil / Kerosene mix to keep the infernal rust problem under control? I was talking to my buddy about it the other day and were thinking about doing it so im wondering who has done it and what the pro's and con's of it are, if any...

 

Have you heard of POR-15? It works pretty well stopping rust.

 

No I haven't but how thick is it? The Kerosene and oil mix is thin enough to put into a pressurized tank so that you can fill the inside of the frame... The outer side of my frame is already coated in a urethane paint I just want to keep it from rusting from the inside out now. Rust out here sucks, I stripped the paint off part of the roof on the runner and it had surface rust on it the next morning.

 

Read here: POR-15 FAQ.

I've never heard of spraying kerosene/oil on a frame. Common sense says it can't be a good idea, seeing how kerosene is very combustible, and metal touching metal is known to create sparks.

 

I read the FAQs and that would work great if I were asking about the exterior of the frame but from what I read that stuff is pretty thick and im doubting its going to be sprayer friendly... About the Oil / Kerosene mix and fires google it, it is a known fact to mix oil with about 10-15 percent of kerosene so that it can be sprayed onto its applicants. The little bit of kerosene eats away the rust and the oil coats it, not only that oil has a high flash point and 10-15% kerosene is very minimal...

 

sound nice. i hate liveing in the rust belt! dont you? now i just need to lear to use my new welder and then i can ad some more support to my rust frame.

some time this summer we gotta meet up and go wheeling i dont know many people around me that have 4x4's most of my friens have muscle car's

 

May 20th is a Mud Bogging competition in Treverton PA (Near Sunbury)... Thats my last local event for awhile then im off to boot camp ~ A school ~ BUDS Training

 

Has anyone tried blasting the inside of the frame with a Oil / Kerosene mix to keep the infernal rust problem under control? I was talking to my buddy about it the other day and were thinking about doing it so im wondering who has done it and what the pro's and con's of it are, if any...

I read the FAQs and that would work great if I were asking about the exterior of the frame but from what I read that stuff is pretty thick (Pertaining to the POR-15) and im doubting its going to be sprayer friendly... About the Oil / Kerosene mix and fires google it, it is a known fact to mix oil with about 10-15 percent of kerosene so that it can be sprayed onto its applicants. The little bit of kerosene eats away the rust and the oil coats it, not only that oil has a high flash point and 10-15% kerosene is very minimal...

 

i dont know what kinda undercoating is on my truck right now but i got a can of spray on ruberizeing undercoat just in case

 

you can thin out Por-15. They have a thinner for it on thier website

 

POR-15 is spray friendly and it practically has the consistency of water. Awesome stuff.

 

SPRAY APPLICATION:
Use 30-35 lbs pressure for normal gloss. Reduce pressure for lower gloss (20-25 lbs). Thin only with POR-15 Solvent, if necessary, but do not thin more than 5%.

Haha I'm a dumba$$ I skimmed right over it...


POR-15 & CHASSIS COAT BLACK™ - Topcoat Special
Here's a great opportunity to get our POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint with one of our specially formulated Topcoats. It's your choice, get POR-15 with an equal size can of BLACKCOTE, CHASSIS COAT BLACK, or STERLING SILVER. You can't go wrong with any of them!

PINTS - $40.00
QUARTS - $64.00
GALLONS - $225.00


Yeah Right...

Anyway back to the question... Has anyone tried the Oil / Kerosene mix? POR-15 looks to be good stuff but that price is up there.

 

Never heard of the kerosene/oil method, but I did spray the undercarriage/frame/rims of my 4wheeler with Diesel fuel at the end of every day. I used to ride it on the beach every day working for the beach service, it did keep the rust off...

 

Forget about the mixing stuff and just buy some POR-15. The prices seem high but consider this: My brother completely covered a front All-Pro winch bumper, rear All-Pro bumper, both All-Pro rock sliders, and an E-locker guard and STILL had some left over from just using 1 (one) pint.

Like i said, the stuff is awesome and it's worth every cent.

 

where do you get a bull bar like that???

 

Yeah I believe ya and if i was coating other things I'd deffinently ponie up and buy some but im just looking to spray down the inner side of the frame and i can't see spending money on something like that just to slop it inside the frame... But that does give me a thought, how thick does that stuff coat on? Would it hold up being sprayed in on the floor?

http://www.tjmbullbars.com/

 

Looking Good! Keep it up!