cool thanks, idle circuit is passing with flying colors tho = zero concern and seems to run super duper at 800rpm... ie idles really well at low rpm tho could be still lean im not sure... ( close to factory specs)... and from searching ( http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm ) and from my limited knowledge - this is the first time i have ever dealt with a carburetor system... and man let me tell you I have tried to do research on line) that the main running jets are inside the carb and have different jets for that job... ie the idle circuit is no longer involved at higher speeds/ load throttle position... i have not found anywhere any one talking about upping the jet size of the secondary circuit unless the 22r has been souped up with pistons and cams for racing or high performance...hence my question :-)

did i misunderstand the primary and secondary system operation... cause that's cool

My biggy problem is the secondary ( main jets? or main running jets = hwy speed) ONLY the N0x is a problem...

are you suggesting to uppen to larger jets on the secondary to richen the mix, to lower the N0x cause the idle jets are also on the small size -- and there sorta set up in standard pairings?

thanks so much for replying

 

thanks again im trying to be self reliant -- this is not my field of expertise

these are something i found on line hope it helps others....

im still working away...

 

i have found more info from within YotoaTech...

MY apologizes to this group/ thread that this info is not really related to de-smoging topic...

 

We can continue this discussion in this thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...tuning-261129/
Weber clearly states that if you can make the engine runs good/best past 1.5 turns on the mixture screw then your low circuit jets are too lean. On the link I posted in my last post you can see the graph that shows the correlation or air correctors and fuel jets and where in the rpm range they are most important. I'm also still at the learning stage of carb tuning and I don't know what increases nox or how the test is performed, but if you are worried about the main fuel jet remember that it is only used in the upper end of the rpms (around 3000+rpms) at more than half throttle.

 

When going from the water choke to electric choke where do you wire up the 12 volts from to hook into the new weber?

 

Can anybody post a clear pic of what ports the two Vac lines off the distributor go to?
I saw one diagram on page 3 or 4 of this thread but can't make it out very clearly.


Fuel lines would be helpful too!

 

My 22r has everything that came on it so I'll definitely be using this thread to adjust that. Awesome tutorial. Can't wait to use it!

 

Delete post please. Thanks.

 

I went through the pirate4x4 thread from provience and using it, and this, I managed to pull the vacuum manifold off and have the truck running with minimal hoses. however my choke isn't working at all, I haven't seen where someone posted something specifically about how to keep your choke? I assume you just keep the vacuum hoses for the choke opener and choke breaker but I could be wrong since everyone swears you only need vacuum advance and brake booster lines. anybody know where to start looking?

 

My choke is electric, I didn't know they made a vacuum operated one.


When I got my new Weber from LCE my choke wouldn't work, and I tracked it down to a sticky hinge for the lever that operates the choke plates. I lubed that and loosened it up and it works fine now. That was a new one to me.

 

Not sure if this post is active or not but I have a question. Did early 22r use a 20r style exhaust manifold with the air ports on top of manifold? I have a 84 4runner with 20r style manifold.

 

my 84 22r has newer style

my 80 20r had old style and PO just welded those holes shut, If I remember right they thread big bolt in those 2 holes then welded them in place.


looks like 82 had older style.

my 84 engine might not be original but it is a first generation 22r

 

Thanks for the reply. I'm pulling the intake to see if it's a 20r or 22r head. In the process of de snogging my 84 4runner. In the past I have always left them stock. No emissions here in Nebraska.

Im keeping the heater operational so what coolant passages can I block, if any? The center of the head and two one coming off the back if timing cover, or just leave them connected?

 

i have both sides of timing cover blocked, but... I have a heater hose bung coming off metal radiator pipe that snakes around drivers\left motor mount.

i use that and the port in middle of head intake side as other heater pipe.

Forgot which way it flows.

20r intakes i have seen don't have nipple on the tin pan on bottom for heater hose. just the one on top for water choke (capped mine) and it returned to passenger timing cover originally.

there is a diagram floating around here somewhere that shows the way water flows in these engines.

if you have connection on bottom of intake use it and the one on drivers back timing cover, and get rid of everything else..

do you have water choke? there will be big pipe on top of intake near firewall..