I'll unplug it when i get around to have the thing moving.

I really just did it to eliminate any vacuum line leaks.

 

Great thread, can't wait to finally desmog!

 

You have to just go out there and start tearing things out of the engine bay!!!! ha ha....

 

Agreed, i have a pile of emissions crap from 1981.
Anyone need an EGR? And a cali-emissions vacuum switch board from an 81 truck? Pretty sure it's cali, anyways.

 

what happened to pumpkin??? ive been lookin forward to the rest of this write up

 

Pumpkin? Perhaps i can help you out a bit if you elaborate and let me know what is missing.

 

Desmoged! headman header w 32/36 weber, soon to have an electric fan.

 

Is that your fuel filter on the pass side?

One other question, the hose directly in front of the filter, where do you have that going? I was just asking in a different thread what it was. I believe it is vent or return.

How do you like your setup?

 

Yes that my fuel filter.. (always keep a spare!) that hose by it goes to my charcoal canaster for the fuel tank vent..

I really like this setup, easy to tune, no junk in the way and i get about 28-32 mpg driving 89 miles a day doing 70-80 mph. i have straight pipe (2 1/2) to a 40 series flowmaster than a 21/2 to the stock exit place.. all manderal bent tube. Sounds really nice.

 

You get 28-32 mpg? Never heard of this with a 22r.

 

5 gallons of 91 gets me about 130 140 miles...

 

Ok.... A couple questions for you. When installing the weber, did you plug the fuel return? Also did you leave the charcoal canister in place? Just looking for info on these two things. It appears that you have all egr stuff removed completely and blocked off.

 

the return line goes from the fuel pump to the tank... dident mess with it.. yes the canister is still there and hooked up,i put a 2 stroke fuel filter on the one vacume line openeings to close it up. i got the egr block off kit from lcengineering.

 

I'll have to play around with the return and the canister. On the weber install directions it stated to plug the return and I can't recall on the canister, but I know mine isn't in there. I've been working on getting it to run the best it can and efficiently as well and those were my next stops, so it all kinda worked out.

 

Reviving an oldie but a goodie!!!
I am de smogging a buddies stocker. I got it pretty much all done and plugged up but I cant get it to idle at 800 it will at 1200 but anything lower it will miss and sputter. If I punch it it will come down and die. It is also dieseling and I ran the white wire to the ground from the fuel cutoff solenoid. So I am not sure if I missed something or plugged something I shouldn't have
Please help.
Pics of it as of tonight...

 

Wow guys, this thread has been active recently and I missed it!

Apologies, for some reason Yotatech stopped notifying me of new posts here. Hopefully this post will correct that.


Lookin good so far! Here's what I would try:

It does sound like a fuel cutoff solenoid issue, I have had that problem myself. Lets ensure that is working before troubleshooting further.

There are two wires to the fuel cutoff solenoid, the colors vary by year. Mine are white and black, some peoples are red and white. The thing about solenoid operation is that in most cases you only need voltage across the contacts to get the thing to operate. In the stock harness, on the fuel cutoff solenoid, white was usually ground/battery return. It doesn't particularly matter which lead you use for which purpose in most cases.

If you have a multimeter (from your previous posts on this site, I'll bet you do), you should verify that neither contact (black or white wire) is grounding out first before proceeding. Put the multimeter to tone or ohms, put one probe on the battery negative/ground, and make sure that you get 0 ohms(no continuity) on both wires with the other probe.

Next step is to check for solenoid operation. Use alligator clips or scrap wire to jump battery voltage from 12v positive to one wire, and return/ground out the other. You should hear the solenoid click when you complete the circuit. I you don't hear the click, you probably have a bad solenoid.

If the solenoid operats, and you want to bypass a bunch of bad factory wiring, you can finish out your install/desmog by wiring a new run of power to an ignition hot lead on your fusebox, and one run to battery return. This solenoid was computer actuated when your smog computer used to operate, moving forward, you just want it to be open when the ignition is on.

Let me know if you need more help, and post results!

I am going to go read the rest of this thread now =)

 

YOU BET!!!
This rig I am knee deep in is an 83 with no computer.
Thank you very much for the quick reply. I actually have 3 people monitoring this thread. They are in the process of de smogging due to a whole host of problems.
Great great thread!!! And thanks so much for the help.
I am betting the issue my buddy is having is related to the fuel cut off solenoid. I am headed over to his shop in the morning to get this straightened out. I will keep you posted!!!'
thanks again!

 

I would like to know how this guy is getting the gas milage he is getting. I have a similar set up and I am getting like 14 mpg with the weber 32 36
Am I hooked up wrong or what is the deal???

 

I am getting 12 with mine =/

I'm guessing small tires?

 

yes I bet he has small tires.
I got 31's Dang! I thought there was something I forgot somewhere. 32mpg man that is unreal even with small tires!