dngspot

I sort of ran into the same problem before I installed the 4 barrel carb. What I did is pulled the stock carb and installed a Webber progressive. The truck ran great.

Granth

once a weber is installed, theres really no vaccuum stuff that you need. I have deleted just about everything, including the charcoal canister and air injection pipes. All I have is one vaccuum line from the vac advance to the carb and one from the valve cover to the bottom of my weber air cleaner. mind you, mine is an 85, but have seen the same one earlier models.

GeminiFire

bump!! i wanna see more!! GREAT THREAD!!!

Oktoberyzing

would it be possible to block nothin more than the air injection holes and nothin else for a short time, simply because i have to get my truck runnin considerin its all i got right now. i had 2 manifold studs break, both on the air injection, so when i was pullin it off i broke the air injection tubes. AND i live in a state that does not smog test, so since i broke one component i plan on takin it all off. i just need to know if i can block off JUST the air injection, or do i need to do the whole de-smog at one time??

SUPREHATER88ER

Subscribed

cameront18

okay so i have been working on desmoggin' my 86 22r for the past 2 days. i have got all the holes on my engine patched up. the lines running from my distributer to the appropriate places on my carb and just about everything else capped off. also new gaskets and seals on my intake manifold and under the carburetor. problem is that my truck is idling well sitting still (a little high) but as soon as i start to move it anywhere is starts to stutter and i can't get any power.

live4soccer7

Check the vacuum advance. This could definitely be it. I would assume there were not problem relating to this before?

cameront18

no previous problems. i don't have the HAC on my truck so the diagrams he has shown on page three are a little confusing. if i post a picture from the side of my carb with all the hook ups marked a different color could you tell me with hose needs to go to what color?

live4soccer7

The timing advance is different than the high altitude. The engine has to adjust the timing according to the engine rpms (will cause the timing to be advanced, or fire sooner, as the rpms increase) and this has to do with the timing advance on the dist. having this hooked up incorrectly will definitely affect in the way you are talking. Get a couple pics of the side of the carb and then the dist. Should help anyone here assist you much better.

cameront18

i had the hoses from the distributer going to the red and blue connections

(i know timing advance is different from the HAC but it does affect the hose connections when it is present and when it is not. correct?)

live4soccer7

Can you take a pic of your dist as well and post the colors on the two connections that had the hoses on them?

Also, anything that had hoses hooked up should be well sealed off to prevent vacuum leaks. This may mean you'll have to put clamps on those plugs, but lets figure out the advance hose first.

cameront18

the hose with white tape on it was going to the red hole, pure black was going to the blue hole

live4soccer7

It seems correct. Do you know for a fact that is the way it originally was?

Check that all other vacuum hoses that were removed are plugged now.
Does this happen when under load or in neutral or in both situations?

Do you have a timing light?

cameront18

those appear to be the holes they go to in my vacuum line diagram, but i am not 100% sure they are correct. it idles well in N i can rev the engine with no stuttering.

if the connections where i spliced the hoses together are not tight enough could that be causing this problem?

i don't have a timing light.

live4soccer7

It could, but it's hard to say. You can try swapping those two around and seeing if it makes a difference.

Definitely seems like a vacuum issue though if nothing else was really messed with (fuel, timing, etc..). A timing gun could help b/c you can see what the timing is when at idle and warm (should be zero) and when you rev the engine you should see the timing advance and if it doesn't or not enough then that'd tell ya it is a vacuum problem.

Is it only an issue when you are driving? Didn't quite get a clear answer on that one.

cameront18

yes only an issue while i am driving.

(thanks, i really appreciate your input.)

live4soccer7

Not a problem, I've done quite a bit of work with the 22r's (still learning too and working out a few hickups in my current setup), didn't desmog mine with the stock carb, but with a 32/36 weber (now have a 20r/22r hybrid with the weber and a few other extras).

Did you unhook anything fuel related? If not then it should eliminate the chance of a fuel leak (since there were no issues prior to de-smog), which could cause power issues as well.

Just to check, you didn't move (rotate) the distributor at all did you?

cameront18

i unhooked was the line running into the carb from the pump, but that is reattached now. and i took the charcoal cannisters off and just ran a line straight back to the tank.

i had the distributer off about a month ago... it wasn't checked with a gun after i put it back on though, trial and error until it sounded good again.

live4soccer7

Timing probably isn't a part of it. I capped my fuel return line off. You could give that a shot. Get a piece of hose and put a bolt in the end to seal it (maybe a little permatex on the threads) and then tighten in on the return part of the pump.

I'd check for fuel leaks as it is running at any place you removed clamps on fuel hose.

I'm still thinking it is vacuum, but these things will help eliminate any other variables.

ducatipaso

subscribed. I shall do this to my 20R this spring.