I got a question. I've been de-smogged for awhile, 82 4wd truck, with 20r and 5 speed, 32/36 weber, and 31" tires. I get 17mpg, by the way... guess I shouldn't complain about 17mpg after reading this thread.

All the crap screwed into the intake manifold, that used to have vacuum lines going to them... can I unscrew them and find something to thread back into the holes? This stuff https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...ensors-252048/
And there are some others.

And the choke from the old carb, had coolant run through it, at the moment I have a hose run there, because I wasn't sure if coolant HAD to flow there... can I plug that, too?

 

Ummmmm... this is a manifold question (pun intended).

I would want to keep the sensor for the thermostat/temp light in place and in working order, other than that, remove away.

As far as any VSV's (vacuum switching valves), you should be fine to remove them and cap them off. Finding a plug may be difficult, some of those are metric pipe thread...

I am a little lost on your choke question. Try the links to blue bass design earlier in the thread, they have comprehensive carb diagrams.

 

Yeah, VSV's! That's what I was talking about. Couldn't think of what they were called. And yeah mostly I was wondering how hard it would be to find a plug. Sounds tough... but them VSV's look so dumb on there.

Going by the blue bass design link - I think that the stock 22r carb had an electric choke, but my stock 20r carb had the water-choke. Perhaps that is how I lost ya.

 

i am having serious idling problems on my 79 20r, cant wait to try the desmog, just one question? at the top it says essentials r vacuum advance lines and charcoal canister w fuel return what if i dont have a cannister? btw, my truck has been partially desmogged also not properly at all

 

hey im new but where else can you get block off plates? i could do it myself but.... anyway the link you have isnt in service any more...

 

Bucket, go to LC Engineering, they have all you'll ever need for a 22R

You'll need both of these to do it right:
http://www.lceperformance.com/Air-In...-p/1045014.htm

http://www.lceperformance.com/EGR-Bl...-p/1016038.htm

 

Pumkinyota,
On my '80 20R, when i got the truck it was, and still is a mess. There are vacuum lines tied off, capped, the whole nine yards. It was running fine amazingly. But now for some reason it idles rough, kinda like a "surging" idle. (also at this point the charge light came on?) If i just barely give it some gas it smooths out, or if i close the choke it smooths out. I am thinking of getting a Weber and finishing taking all of the emissions crap out. Would you have any comments or opinions that could lead me in the right direction? I would love to still be able to use my OEM carb and save some money....Sorry for my ignorance

 

Southern, you could have some fuel delivery problems. Honestly, I would cough up the $260 and get yourself a Weber. It is by far the best mod that I have done to my truck. You'll get more power and better fuel economy. It will pay for itself in the long run; both monetarily and in headaches!

 

Hey Guys I am right in the middle of the desmog and now I am running the vacume. I need a bit of help to get to the finish.
Here is a over all shot( sorry its a bit blurry)


I will use 1 and 2 for the dissy advance just like the op did.


In this pic the line my hand is on is running to the number 1 below that the line goes to the fuel return vent.
Here is another look


The uncaped line I have caped when running. The J shaped line I have running to number 2 on the dissy.

Right now she fires right up, but idles crappy and sending some bluish smoke out the pipe.

She did idle better before the d smog.
Thanks guys!!

 

Anyone have anything? I need to get this guy running!
Thanks!

 

I found a digram off of a 81 canada model,


Will try this!
If this does not work I need to try vacuume advance.

 

Once I get to that point in my rebuild, that was the diagram I was going to use for my vacuum hookup. I've also desmoged my 22R

 

Sorry I've been a bit unresponsive, working like 60 hour weeks. I'll try to get on a real computer tomorrow and review what you have going on.

 

Thanks that would be great!!!!

 

toastyjosh - Did you get it figured out? That canada model diagram should work well for you. If you still have idle issues afterwards, make sure that EVERYTHING with a vacuum port is capped securely except for the lines shown in that diagram.

When I first did mine, I had 2 issues: one of those hard lines that wraps around to the dizzy had a hairline crack, and one of the brand new vacuum caps I had put on rotted out within a week. That has never happened to me before, or since.

I got a brand new package of vacuum caps, and 20' of vacuum line (about 30 cents per foot), and ran it from scratch to test. It purred along just fine.

I have since simplified even more, and put on a weber 32/36. I was skeptical of this, and loved my Aisin carb, but it had broken beyond my ability to easily rebuild. In my area, a rebuild kit cost 250$ plus my labor, a new Aisin cost 360$, a 30 year old Aisin cost 300$ at the junkyard, and a brand new weber cost $235. The math made it easy for me to try out.

In the end, that has been one of the best upgrades that truck has ever recieved, I should have done it years ago.

 

Wow, I just looked at the stats for this thread, and we are approaching 50,000 views! That is the third largest view count in the pre-84 trucks category, and by far the largest view count of any thread that is not a sticky.

I hope this information has been useful for many people. My apologies on my long absences, my work situation has changed quite a bit in the last 2 years, and I have very little time to devote to this site anymore. All the same, I will help out as often as I can, and hopefully the amazing folks here at Yotatech can also help when needed.

 

So how about de smoging a 3. Slow 3vze will it run better and be more dependable

 

Couldn't help you much there my friend, I've never had one and don't plan to. I would imagine that a desmog on this motor will be much more difficult than on a 22r, due to the fact that it is fuel injected. If you are looking for real performance gains out of a 3.Slow, I have heard that a motor swap may be on your short list. I am certainly not the expert on this, though, I have never worked on one.

Sorry I couldn't be more help!

 

Yeah that's what I thought I never had one till now I will probably look into swapping it for a 22re as that motor I know pretty well

 

Yea I think so! I still have issues now I am going after the idle adjustment.
I did replace my vacuume advance with one from LCE. It was 20$.
The carb is a reman, so I am hoping after the tuning it will do ok. I am still replacing stuff, fuel line, t-stat, etc to make sure.

The weber is my next move, if I can not get this thing right I will go with the weber. The issue I have with the weber is 250 for carb+48 for rejet(I live at 7K)+100 for fuel reg.
Looking at 400bucks