Good eye for detail. I know that's about crazy looking. In all the years and all the rebuilds under my belt I have never seen this before. I know a Ex Toyota dealer mech, showed him the picture. He said yep some do get gaskets over them. I'm confused. I found out yesterday that the last owner only put 70,000 miles on it out of the 270,000 that it has. After see this I should bite it and pull the block out. But I think it will clean up ok. I'll know more later today after I pull the piston out. As long as the rod bearing surfaces look ok and measure OK and the bores then it will be fine. And he said it never overheated on him. I believe him. He's a retired CHP and gave me the truck. I'll post more info and pics as it progresses.

 

I drove down to Reseda and dropped off my head at Martin Davinson machine shop. Comes highly recommended. Cam is still it it and an original Toyota cam. He thinks cam is perfect. On the exhaust side looks like he'll coil city. Some way to big. So they will repair any damaged one and correct the over sized ones back to the original size. I showed him a picture of the Limp timing chain, then he showed me where in the head the chain was already slapping the side of the casting. Lucky catch. He said make sure I double check the timing chain cover for wear. I will.
We spoke about rings and I mention the gapless rings. He said don't bother. I would be better of with standard rings like Hastings or Perfect Circle . And he said a 220 grit hone job on the bore will be fine. I'll know in a couple of days if it salvageable. Just on visual he said ok

 

Piston are out. Stock bore. Everything looks very good except for carbon. One piston had the ring gaps almost lined up. I doubt Toyota built it that way. Also ordered a new timing chain cover from Yota works. 75.00. Everyone else is 100+. The chain did not eat it but someone had over tightened it and Warped it. No wonder the front end leaked. Surprised that the front seal wss ok and not leaking. So off I go to the Machine shop. I'm dropping off rods and piston for a cleaning and to check them over. Every rod was marked with a 2.so marked the top of each piston. And dropping off the head bolts and rocker assembly for cleaning and to get checked. But so far nothing looks bad. Then I'm going to purchase some long bristle brushes to clean the oil passages.

 

So I dropped off the rest of the items at the Machine shop. Older man working there asked how old and how many miles. When I told him he thinks I should pull the engine and just do it all. The crank journals are OK so I'm not doing that unless I can come up with a good reason.

 

Getting ready for the head when the shop gets it finished. I thought I should share the easy way to clean up the head gasket mating surface on the block. When you pull your old gasket off there are always pieces left on the block. I use a New sharp Wood chisel and gently remove it all. Then I use a 12x12 piece of glass that's 3/8 orv1/2 inch thick with 320 grit silicone carbide paper well oiled. You oil both sides of the paper that way it helps keep MIT on the glass while moving it back and forth. This removes any small debris that can't be removed by just scraping. Decking the block by hand. I have used this method for years with good results. You can get the glass at any large glass or window store.

 

Looking good! Way to get on it and make things happen.
Doing this all in the truck, it would be difficult for me to sleep at night wondering if I'd truly removed all the metal dust. But I suppose a few oil changes and the 22R would again prove it's resilience.

 

Heads up... those head bolts are stretch-to-yield, aka use once and replace. Do not reuse or you’ll be pulling the head off again in the near future.

Also pay particular attention to the head/intake mating surfaces and I would strongly recommend having those both (head and intake) machined as well. The water ports through the intake and if that surface/gasket fails then you can have water into a cylinder just like a failed head gasket.

Good luck... sounds like a familiar case of “it wouldn't pass smog so here I am with a rebuild” =)

 

I have been working on the intake too. No leaks wanted. Same glass plate. And I'll call the Machine shop and have them check the intake mating surface too.

 

So what is the opinion for a good quality gasket set? I have seen prices all over the place. High price isn't always a higher quality. I have used Felpro with good luck, Mahle brand is by far superior to Felpro and then original Toyota OEM gasket sets.
The machine shop is closed until Monday and I need to find out if they removed any material as that may or may not dictate original thickness or a taller head gasket. Any input appreciated.

 

I won’t use anything but OEM Toyota anymore. The small price difference is worth it.

 

Well we changed our minds this morning after really looking it over. One cylinder # 4 looks odd. So out it came. Pretty easy really. Had a hard time finding the last 17mm bolt and found it hiding behind the clutch actuator at. Plus we found a Rats nest top of block and bottom sides. They ate the clutch rubber boot to get in there but none were home. Now tomorrow off to the same machine shop.

 

One other reason for pulling this engine was the condition of the oil gallery. When I pulled off the old timing chain tensioner the oil that came out looks like thick Texas crude oil. And no way to clean the oil gallery completely without pulling the engine. Now with getting it hot tanked it will be like a new block. I do think it had been over heated in the past and that's the primary cause of the thick sludge.

 

Good thing! That nest was a fire you wouldn't be able to put out just waiting to happen.

 

The Machine shop called. I need to bore over .20, crank was perfect. 4 rod bushings, 8 rocker screws and nuts. And 4 exhaust valves. So in the morning I'll get my order for the parts. I'm getting most parts from 22RE Performance. His piston sets are balanced and same diameter. He has been using these in his builds for 15 years with zero issue's.
The shop will need to take off between .08 to .10 from the block. He said overall it was in good condition.

1. The shop is Martin Davison in Reseda, CA. They do great work, honest with good prices.

 

This machine shop bores each cylinder according to each individual piston but just a bit under sized and then Hones to fit. Not sure how other shops work. I know when they are done it will be perfect. And then up to me to assemble correctly. Can't wait.

 

Here is a picture of the clutch fork. The rats had build a nest in it too. A very good reason to check the fork boot.

 

In cleaning up items and gathering parts we found that both front Motor mounts were shot. They had separated. There was so much oil sludge in the bell housing that I resorted to scraping it out with a putty knife and then 5 Coates of a orange based degreaser. Now getting clean.

 

Making progress. Drained gear oil from trans. Removed input shaft front cover. Cleaned it all up. New gaskets are not obtainable. So I used Permatex oil heat resistant sealer. And installed a new seal. If you ever endeavor to do this make sure you do not remove the old seal until your ready to install the new one. You could inadvertently install backwards really easy. Just use a large socket that mates up and a light hammer to push it in. I also installed a new clutch release hub and bearing. These assemble really easy. I coat all mating surfaces with high temp wheel bearing grease. Same goes with this. Look at old part and assemble the same, as you could reverse them. And a new clutch boot and fork. Lube pivot dimple in fork with grease. I still have to install the fork keeper Springs.

 

Nice work sir, and yep, Permatex Ultra Black is a good friend of mine. I alos replaced my input shaft seal but broke down & spent the $10 at the parts store for a seal installer kit instead of going the large socket route. Of course I didn't have the correct size large socket on hand, & the seal installed kit has come in handy on other jobs since then. Also good advice on the throwout bearing. I nearly installed mine backwards but caught myself in time.

 

Also if your installing a new clutch do yourself a favor and check the pilot bearing that is pressed into the rear of the crank. Mine was bad. Toyota uses a ball bearing while most American engines use a brass bushing. Also check the tranny input shaft where it goes into the bearing and smooth it up if needed.