This intake has a removable cover on the bottom. 8 bolt m6. 2 long 6 short. One broke off. But it broke off with a large piece sticking out. Vise grips and heat. I used a propane torch to heat up the boss around the bolt. And out it came. Then went and purchased 8 new bolts and lock washers. Tapped out the holes and cleaned them out. Cleaned all remaining gasket material off. Permeated aviation brown on the manifold, set gasket. Permeated gray on the cover and carefully put them together. Bolted up and torqued evenly. Should never leak.

 

I went out to my local Navy base and used the auto hobby shops sand blaster. Next is prime and paint.

 

The engine is ready at the Machine shop. Bored .20 over. New rod bushings. Hot tank and cleaned block. They had to remove 0.011 on the block. He could have went deeper but he said it will seal. On the head they removed 0.05 to get it flat. New Toyota exhaust valves, new guides. Repair exhaust flange of head as it had 3 different sizes of delicious, now back to original specs. New Toyota valve seals out of my gasket set. They also sand blasted all of my water piping as the internal corrosion was terrible. He advised that I seal the inside with Por15. They will never corrode again.
The crank was perfect, no work needed. Cam perfect. Rods perfect except on wrist pin so he replaced all 4. I also have new valve lash screws and nuts as several of mine were shot.
We will pick it up this Friday. Put the block on the stand and paint. Then start assembly Saturday.

 

Did you also have them remove 0.011 from the top of the Timing Cover? This has to be done or the cover will not fit anymore, as it will be too tall.

 

Yes they milled the front cover bolted on the block. It's a New front cover. I'm still considering a mild cam. May or may not.

 

Picked up the parts this morning from the machine shop. Painted it today. Tomorow assembling at least the bottom end.


in the above picture you can still see some damage but he swears the gasket will seal it. Too clean it all up would have been too deep of a cut. I'm happy.
And yes that's silver paint. I used Dupli engine hi heat which has ceramic in it. Should last a long time.

 

Today was a very productive day. Assembled the lower end this morning. Went for lunch. Came back and installed the pistons/rods assembled earlier. Wiped the block deck down and installed head with rocker assembly with new adjuster screws and nuts. Torque per the FSM. 3 passes, I never 21, one at 43, one at 63. New head bolts too.

 

Lookin good boss.

 

Hit a Snag today. Started install of the timing chain. Had everything set out. Installed lower sprocket placed chain on upper sprocket pulled pulled it up into position and only needed light finger pressure to set it in place. Wrong timing chain. Brand new from Rock Auto Perfect Seal timing chain kit. All parts look like quality. Needles to say it's being returned. Ordered a new set from Yota parts in Washington. Double row OEM kit. Live and learn who and who not too purchase parts from.

 

As a side note. Perfect Circle parts used to be as good or better than OEM. I had also purchased a Perfect Circle oil pump. You can get me once but not twice. I shipped it back too. Yota shop has OEM AISIN for 54. 18 cheaper. And probably better quality. So now I'm just cleaning parts.

 

After all of this work I'm pulling the head. Something is not right.
Since I'm waiting for parts I decided to adjust my valves. # 1 cylinder stew adjuster screws almost all the way down and not enough threads left to put the lock nut on. Several other valves are the same but not as bad. At first I thought the adjusters were too short. Checked and OEM length. So I called the friendly folks at 22re performance and texted them a couple of pictures. They are also mystified. Culprit could be excessive wear on cam lobes or rocker pads. Both look ok to me.
And 22re said pull the rockers and check rack one. Did. Then I ran into trouble. Cam caps torque setting is 16 flubs. Seemed really loose and before by could get the # 1 cap to 16 it pulled the threads. So back to the Machine shop in the morning, oh what fun.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
Mike

 

So pulled head off to take to the shop tomorrow and see where a valve made contact with the # 1 & 4 pistons. I don't see how this would be possible as no adjuster screws were installed until the head was torqued.

 

Well I figured out just what caused the exhaust valve to smack the piston. I should have had all pistons below the decor waited until the timing chain was installed so that would not happen. So hopefully my mistake can help other builders. Do not try adjusting valvesbuntil the engine is ready.

 

At least you caught the mistake early! The damage could've been much worse! Keep up the good work, the engine is looking good.

 

So after double checking all my Cam Lobes the cam is shot. I ordered a 268 grind fro Redline cams. These are the same cams that were sold by engine builder. He was their cam maker. On sale for 125+25 shipping. Check out his website he has some great bargains. If I would have known about him I would have just got a new head for 475. And with bigger valves too.

 

He doesn’t sell early 22r heads that I can see. Do a search for the cam cap stripping threads, common issue.

 

I was mistaken . I spoke with him today. He will sell a rebuilt one for 275. Good price.

 

Yesterday I found and ordered a new wiring harness, the little engine one on the left side that goes to the oil gauge, 2 sensors on the intake, water temp and fuel cut off. From toyota in Japan. I think it was 56.00 and with shipping came out to 74.00. If you go to a dealer with you VIN you can find all kinds of parts made just for your model. I even found that emmisions tube for the top of my manifold but I'm going to reuse mine. That tube was 105.00. I'll pass.

 

Well I'm back to wiring it myself, they refunded my money as they could not find the harness.
I have the last of the engine parts coming today or Monday. I have the new cam installed and timing chain guides and lower sprocket. I'm waiting on rocker arm shims and a new cam bolt. So today I'll start the timing cover work installing the water pump at least.

 

Good luck with your remaining rebuild. I had some similar smog/carb related issues with my '83, but once I found the problems, I got them all fixed. Also installed a new Weber from LCE. Same leak at the air pump tube-to-exhaust manifold. Gasket had failed. Finally cured all that with a header from LCE and new bolts too. Luckily there's no smog inspections here in western Colorado.