Since I reside in the confused state of California I need to keep all my smog items hooked up. I have a new Weber carb kit coming tomorrow. The dealer has been selling these redline kits for 30 years. When I mentioned the unavailability of parts for the original carb he said 30 years ago nobody could get all the parts.
Also there is one 3 port vacuum switch mounted into the water jacket of the intake manifold. The top port was hooked into a small diagram on the right side of the carb. Said diagram was bad and dumping gas into the I take. So the weber will cure that too. The gas ruined the 3 port switch. Can't find a new one. But not really needed with the weber. I'll let you know how that works.

 

How do you plan on keeping all emissions equipment and using a Weber Carburetor?

 

Redline guarantees the new Weber carb. And the kit comes with a adapter to install the original air cleaner. But I also purchased a Weber air cleaner as soon as I pass smog that big factory cleaner gets hung on a nail in my garage. You don't use all of the vacuum ports as the Weber does not need them. It also comes with a CARB sticker for under your hood to prove its exempt. I think the whole kit was right at 350 plus 29 for the new filter. And if needed just try to find a 3 port vacuum switch. Can't. My Napa man said just put it back on and hook up some bogus vacuum hoses to it as the Weber doesn't need it anyway. Or plug the hole . He also said the Smog tech will just look at the CARB sticker and OK the visual. Then test for for emissions. As long as it passes we will be ok.
I have learned a bunch on this forum. So before I go off for the test I will set the valves, new plugs and check the timing and make sure it is within the required settings.

 

My new Weber came yesterday. A complete Red Line kit. It's amazing. Cost was about 359 delivers for free. I ordered mine Monday morning and the brown truck delivered Tues. I'm posting some pictures. This kit eliminates A lot of the factory emission items. For every vacuum line eliminated they provided a cap. They provide everything. I'll let you know how it goes together. So far so good.

That piece on top is the adapter for the original air cleaner.

PVC RE ROUTE

 

So since the old carb was dumping so much fuel into the intake I replaced the plugscwith new NGK, new plug wires, new distributer cap and rotor. New oxy sensor and a new fuel filter. We may need a new CAT too from all of that fuel probably screwed it too. But I'll try smoging it before I just put a new CAT on. They are not cheap. Changed oil with a napa gold filter. And tomorrow I will check the valves for correct settings.

 

Alright, I am still confused........

You won't need a new oxygen sensor as your new Weber carburetor completely eliminates any function the oxygen sensor used to have.

I am guessing you don't need that vacuum switch that you originally asked about?

 

Hi. Your correct. I will not need that 3 port vacuum switch. Plus I checked my a few other vacuum switches. 2 were bad. My smog guy says hook them up anyway if they are shown in the Weber diagram. So far none of these are available anywhere, no dealer has them. No auto parts store.. Smog guy says don't worry it will pass smog.
My linkage was binding and I finally found the culprit. The throttle linkage that bolts to the intake manifold with the throttle cable has 2 nylon bushings. No dealer has them. So a trip to my hardware store I found 2 press in bushings that fit. Now the throttle works correctly.

 

Almost completed it today. I still have a couple of original vacuum lines to replace. And hook up the electric choke and fuel turn off solenoid. Also got the new cap and rotor installed and a new valve cover gasket.

 

I think you'll find that the emissions guys are more thorough than just looking at a sticker you placed on your hood. The only "smog legal" aspect of the Redline kit is that adapter for installing your original air cleaner. However, none of the vacuum powered ports or the cold air diaphragm in that air cleaner will function as they previously did with your OEM carburetor. None of your EGR will function as it did from the factory.
I can also just about guarantee that they will require your air injection parts to be visually bolted on under the assumption they are working. Since that system is vacuum powered as well, air injection won't be operating properly.

The Weber 32/36 can be adjusted, along with your timing, to pass emissions. At least, where federal emissions standards of the time are applied. California had additional regulations in '82 and Toyota had to add extra equipment to meet those regulations. All of which you have now made obsolete.

Don't get me wrong, I'm absolutely rooting for you and hopefully the emissions center you go to says you're solid and let's you ride out of there with a passing slip! As someone who has failed plenty of emissions tests here in Colorado (not as strict as Cali) running a Weber carb I just want you to be prepared to be told, "no way".
I too utilize the adapter for the factory air cleaner to pass emissions. Most techs don't know the difference between the shape and casting of an OEM Toyota carb vs. a Weber carb so they see the air cleaner and figure good. Where I live, they chase every vacuum line and compare to the parts books. They look for air injection to have a clean intake source, and it's piped clear over to the exhaust. They check for a cat, at least visually. It could be gutted but you won't pass the actual sniffer test without one anyway.

Good luck and keep us updated on how your test goes!

Also, you can still buy OEM 3 port bi-metal vacuum switching valves all day on eBay. There are a few different versions depending on your motor/vehicle, but you can definitely still buy them.

 

So far with all of older cars I have dealt with our California smog guys look at your hood sticker if it still has one. Then they give it a really quick look. Then the sniffer test. I hope it will pass. Redline has the metal tag on the carb that gives the exemption number. For some reason I thought it was an adhesive sticker. I will take my installation papers with me too. Next week it will go in for the test.

 

I finally drove it over to smog it. The truck passed except for one issue. Timing. I drove it home and checked the timing as per the manual. The timing mark is erratic and all over the place. So I think it needs a new distributer. Has any others had erratic timing?

 

Today I tried setting the timing again. No luck. So I pulled off the new distributer cap and found silver dust everywhere as the rotor was eating the contacts. So I just installed a rebuilt distributer. That may fix it.

 

More issues. We did know one or more air injection ports were leaking. This extra exhaust went up the hot air intake and smoked or cooked the Asian carb. So I took out the 4 bolts holding the tube down, thout I could slip new gasketsvin. No. That tube has 2 small tubes that go into the manifold. So now I need to see how to remove the tube too slow replacing the gaskets. Geez Toyota engineered this weird. Any ideas on an easy fix?

 

I finally figured out the air tube removal. It exits the gearbox the heat riser sheet metal. So you grab it there and with a little prying and a few choice words it lifted up. One up your looking at the top of the manifold and can see the 2 little steel bushings. The new gaskets have a copper crush seal on them that surrounds that bushing. New gaskets slipped right on and bolted it up tight. I should not have any leaks now. Before I could not understand why the firewall was black , now I know it was due to the leaks in the air injection tube.
I also did a compression test, and at 270,000 miles I was surprised. From # 1 to 4 I had 175, 190, 150, 180. That #3 I'm fretting sure was the incorrect valve settings. I reset the valve clearance to 7 and 11. Cold. Hot it should open up to 8 and 12. Number 3 was set at about .25. I'm surprised it even got up to 150. Sunday I'll finish it up and smog Monday.

 

Pictures. Also as a hint if your going to install a Weber do yourself a favor and install the new linkage on a work bench, not on the manifold. Reason for this is that you can't really see what your doing if you wait to do it on the vehicle. Tried on and said screw this and removed it. Lot easier.

this shows those little bushings pulled out. I removed them and cleaned them up.

This shows the blackened firewall. And the rear of that air injection tube.

 

Umm, isn't that backwards on the cold/hot valve settings? The gap won't "open up" once the engine heats up, it should in fact "close up". Metal expands when hot, it doesn't contract. If you set the valves at 7 & 11 cold they are going be tighter than that when hot due to expansion, probably like 5 & 9; that's kinda tight.

I set my 20R at 10 & 14 cold, ran the engine to full temp & rechecked the clearances. They came right in at 8 & 12. I also didn't really notice any excessive valve noise when cold either.

About the erratic timing. It could be a worn out distributor but in my experience it's a stretched timing chain that does that. Or maybe a broken chain giude causing the chain to be too loose. My timing mark was all over the place when checking with a timing light. Once I got a new timing chain on it, it was rock solid. If you've got the valve cover off you can look down at the chain & see what's going on with it.

 

It failed smog yesterday but I'm back there right now. I think your right about the timing chain. Mine seems a bit loose. If it fails today the chain is next. Well it failed. But smog guy thinks too rich of a mixture. And now somehow it's running wide open with no pressure on the throttle. So it seems as if something is binding somewhere in the linkage. I'm waiting a call back from Redline tech support.
And at the lower rpm -speed test on the dyno it filled the shop with smoke. Higher remit cleared up.

 

I did re adjust the valve strings to factory settings.

 

I found one of the Big issues. The Secondary was not closing completely. No wonder it was overly rich. I have been speaking with Redline tech support and emailed pictures.
I'll post how that turns out.

 

While installing the vehicle applicable throttle connector somehow I James the secondary linkage. I tried doing it on the vehicle. Bad mistake. Do it on a bench. So now mine is working fine for now. Redline had me use green loctite on the secondary shaft nut to help keep it in place. Mine was lightly stripped by my son over tightened it originally. No wonder I could not pass smog. Now I'm waiting for a new distributer from LC3 in Arizona. New not rebuilt. I had one from Napa, the retard actuator was frozen. About the same price too.