Today I spent with a 10x1.25 tap and a 8x1.25 tap cleaning all the engines attachment points. Some were not too bad and others were full of cheap. 5 10x1.25 on the front end and 12 on the left, and 10 on the right. Got a lot of junk with the smaller tap too. Ran out of brake cleaner, my favorite for cleaning the holes and tap after each one is done.

 

More parts came today. The rocker arm shims frm LCE. There is a Trick in getting those rocker arm screws out. Tony at LCE explained that all of the ones he has taken apart requires a Impact driver and a big hammer. I used my driver with a 2lb brass hammer, it took 2 blows for each one. Then tomorrow I'll go get Allen head metrics screws with the required 1.25 thread pitch a lock washers. He said he uses one with a captured washer. Maybe I'll get lucky. My shaft required 3 rockers moved .60. Now they line up perfectly.

 

So yesterday tried to install the head. # 1 head bolt threads pulled out at 20lbs. So off I go to purchase a 12x1.25 heli coil. Repaired the destroyed threads now as new. Installed the head. No issues. Installed timing chain and tensioner just now. Moving along.

 

Making great progress today. Front cover and oil pump installed. Rear seal installed and next is the oil pickup and pan. If I ever build another one I will change how I assemble it. I will put the block on a bench to do the crank install and then do the rear seal. Then onto the engine stand.

 

So I had a bit of a slow Down. I thought I was close to installing the intake. But I remembered the Thermostic valve needs to go on first. There is a small water pipe that is aimed to the rear of the engine, it is the heater supply line. Mine was so rusted up I removed it to clean it. I don't remember what the seal looks like, may take an O ring. But I thought it had a gasket. My Factory gasket set has nothing in it for this. Any ideas? Also my smog pump suffered a bent pulley. By chance if anyone has de-smoged and still has that pump I would like to purchase it. Rebuilt one don't come with a pulley.

 

I found out that just an O ring is used to seal that pipe. My steel pipes are not worth trying to save. So I have ordered all new stainless pipes from 22re Performance. And these will work on my truck as my heater valve was shot too. So I will re-locate my new heater valve to work with the new pipining. This new piping alone will clean up the engine compartment. Now the U shaped pipe that connects the water pump to the lower radiator hose is just that. No heater outlet. The new heater outlet will run from the water pump right side which was blocked off and go under, or behind the exhaust manifold. I checked and have plenty of room for the ne pipe. This is kinda expensive but will last for years. All post pictures of the set up when I install later this week.

 

The New stainless steel water piping arrived today and all installed. No more leaks or screwing around trying to repair dead pipes. These bolted up really nice.



I had to go pick u a couple of longer bolts. These new pipes clear the exhaust manifold with no issues.

 

These new pipes will work fine with my new heater valve also. The pipe on the left is the heater supply line, the right rear pipe is the heater return line. It's nice when you can find items that really do work. I purchased these from 22re performance.

 

I just ordered the final parts and they will be here next week. Then the engine gets slipped in. For those interested in modifying your early truck heater supply lines this is the way to go. All factory parts. I have enclosed a diagram for the 85 model as that is what I used. My trucks old owner ran Tap water with no antifreeze and that's what rotted it out. I'm surprised that the heater core is ok.

 

Next is a quality header. I know that LCE makes a great one and Thorley. Has to be calif certified as in CARB legal. Any ideas on these, as in who makes a really nice one at a reasonable ptice?
Thanks
Mike

 

I havent checked this thread in awhile apparently. Youre rolling with this project. Keep it up, its looking very clean. Its nice to be able to find those random parts. Nothing like shiny metal under the hood

 

Now so I can check my oil level a new dipstick and tube. Tube is Machined steel, not junk. Also tired of seeing the head half moon rubber seals that almost always leak. Mine never will. Machined out of aluminum and installed with Permatex grey high heat. The best 30 I have spent in awhile. Dipstick tab also is permanently welded onto that tube. Super tight fit, I used never seize as a sealer lubricant and carefully drove it into place with a plastic faced hammer until the tab hole lined up with the hole in the block.. I picked these up from 22re performance.

These half moon replacement pieces are a saddle fit so they can never moved or fall out. If needed to be removed that will be easy too and just clean it up and add sealant and place in the slot. I have never seen these offered by anyone else.

 

And I got a great deal on Thorley CARB legal header for $422 plus 26 shipping. I will install the header one i install the engine. Don't want to chance damage.
As a side not. I did a dry fit with my old cast iron manifold to double check clearances for that pain in the rear Air Injection tube. No issues it clears my new water piping perfect and so it will on the header.

 

I dislike parts dealers who on their web site advertise the wrong prices. No DT header. I'll get something else.

 

Now I'm on hold for more parts. When this adventure started my Asin carb was shot. Got A great deal on a Redline Weber, I thought. The linkage included was crap. Beware the great deal. I ordered an LCE adapter plate which is awesome, but I still needed the correct linkage which LCE sold me those missing parts which they automatically include in their Weber kit. So by Monday the remaining parts will be here. I'm not installing the engine until I get it completely finished.

 

Here is a picture of my linkage mocked up to the correct height. The adapter that came with my carb was about half this high but it was enough to throw the linkage off.

 

Now I'm busy with new vacum lines. Easy to complete before I drop the engine in.

 

Today the engine goes in. I have misplaced 3 of the pressure plate bolts so I called ARP as they are local in Ventura and just picked up a set.



ARP main warehouse Ventura California

 

As a side issue for anyone doing work like this if you live in an are that sometimes has high winds be careful. My Toyota hood was resting at a decent angle and on the 10th we had gusts to 60mph. One gust picked the hood up and slammed it into my nice ford explorer. Cost the insurance company $3,500 to install a new door skin and paint it. Thankfully I have a low deductible for comprehensive.


wind also bent a leg on my canopy.

 

Today finished front Motor mounts. It was all lined up just had to fetch bolts.

the old valve cover is just setting there. I did not want to bigger up my new Red powder coated one. Tomorrow more work. I still have to cut out all or the old exhaust system, install starter, install new clutch slave cylinder and more.