I have the plenum off right now so I thought testing the fuel injectors would be a good idea. They were installed about 3 years ago so maybe they should be cleaned. But for right now I just want to check electrical connections before the plenum goes back on. The FSM says to check for 13.4-14.2 ohms resistance on the injector, so that seems pretty straightforward. But does anyone know if I can test the grey connectors as well? I guess this might be considered testing the circuit. If so, how? They look a bit dirty so I was wondering if spraying them with electrical cleaner spray is a good idea or not, but I'm not sure.

Also, the latches on several of these grey connectors have broken off. They still connect well, but I was thinking of securing them with zip-ties for added security. These can easily be snipped off when needed in the future.

Any additional advice, tips, etc related to injector maintenance (including cleaning) is welcome and appreciated.

 

Year? Model? C'mon gregory. How many of us have told you to put all of that in your signature?

You can test the injectors with just 12v (you're listening for a click) if it's a "later" high-impedance model. I think '90 on are all high impedance; maybe earlier.
The harness side has 12v with key-on on one of the terminals; the ECM grounds the other to open the injector. If you're worried about continuity, you'll probably need to ohm-out the line that returns to the ECM. Did it run before?

Broken lock tabs is a common issue (heat weakens the plastic over time). Zip ties are a pretty good solution, just a little ghetto. The connectors are available (e.g., https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delive...03636_594834_0 , though I got a set of 6 off Amazon for less than this one). You can get them with pigtails like the autozone one, but then you end up making 12 splices. The good way to replace the connectors is to get the disassembled ones, remove the pins from the bodies, cut off the pins and crimp on the new ones, then use in the new bodies. (You'd think you could keep the old pins and just push into the new bodies, but while the pins fit the injector fine, the bodies weren't interchangeable.)

Last, if you loosen any high pressure fuel connection (you have to loosen all of them to remove the injectors), you must replace the pair of crush washers on each connection. Pretty much only available from a dealer, but even there cheaper than dirt. Somebody here might say "sure, yeah, I reused them ...." Remember that you're talking about gasoline; if it leaks onto a hot engine you probably won't get a second chance.

 

Yes, Gregory, you got a 22RE or 3.0?

Furthermore, I don't now about 3.0 but on 22R-E there are splices between injector negative and ECU pin that could get brittle, break or corrode. Check those.
If I were you, I would also re-route wires that do not absolutely have to be under that plenum for ease future maintenance, i.e. 4WD and Backup indicator, temp gage sender wiring, starter sol3noid control coil wire, etc.

 

Sorry man! I added it and you should see it now.

Yeah all the injectors and connections functioned fine before. I'd just like the peace of mind before putting it back together. But anyways, so I can use the battery to test function. Click that is continuous = healthy, intermittent clicking = bad, right?

As for testing the connectors, I had to look up 'ohm out'. In this case it sounds like it would be using an ohmmeter with one test lead on the wire from connector and the other at the ECM. Doesn't sound super complicated though might be a bit more involved than I want to take on. But good to know. Do you think spraying out the connectors with electronic cleaner is a good idea?

Agree with you 100% on the crush washers. I already bought the 8 of them for No. 2 & 3 fuel pipes from the dealer. Only about $12 total. I think I've heard of people using brake copper washers instead, but I'd rather not take the risk.

 

IF those wires are crimped to be parallel like in the case of the 22R-E (here), you would need to probe one injector end and all ECM ends spliced to it.
I would also find same size male / female connector pins and insert and pull out of the connectors several times while soaked with cleaning solution to more thoroughly clean.

 

Related question -- should the injectors be able to rotate? I know this is the case when you install them, but I wasn't sure if it holds true after they've been installed a while.

Some of my injectors will rotate when a small amount of force is applied. Others don't.

 

When you install the injectors, you should "lubricate" the o-ring with gasoline, and as you said you should be able to rotate them. Now? There's nothing to lock the connection, so sure, rotating is good. Not rotating is not so bad.

If you test the injectors with 12v, really all you're getting is dead/(probably okay). Just because the electric solenoid pulls in, doesn't mean that the fluid passage isn't clogged. The only way to really test them is pull them out and run them in a test stand that runs pressurized Stoddard Solvent through them (which, as a practical matter, means send them out). A good testing facility will look at flow rate and pattern. But if the engine ran okay before, the injectors are probably okay. The wiring is probably okay. Your choice.

I'm glad to hear you're ahead of the game on the crush washers. Treat the washers carefully; I usually advise to get two more than you need of each size. If you have exactly the number you need, they have an annoying tendency to spring out of your hand and roll into the grass. Stock crush washers are aluminum. On this forum, it has been speculated that brake washers are copper (much harder) because they handle much higher pressures and so are torqued down much harder. So, yeah, stick with the stock aluminum ones.

 

Hi scope103, I put everything back together and am delighted to say it's working well. Except for one thing. There seems to be tiny amounts of fuel seeping from the copper washers on fuel pipes 2 and 3. See below for a before and after picture:





You can see after driving the vehicle, a shiny film of gas on the pipe where it connects to the fuel rail. Fortunately, it's very small and not dripping from what I can tell, but obviously still a problem. I torqued it to spec, but maybe my torque wrench was miscalibrated.

My question to you is, what do you recommend doing to make sure this doesn't occur again? I plan on taking off the plenum again to fix this, but do you think merely tightening these bolts should do the trick or is replacing the copper washers altogether a better idea? I definitely plan on tightening them above spec this time around. Not too much, obviously, I don't want to break anything. But just enough to ensure no leaks.

 

The best choice is to replace the copper washers with the OEM aluminum ones. THEN torque them to spec.
If you don't want to do that, yes, snugging them a bit more than the torque specs, VERY carefully. Give it a little snug, stop and check it, if necessary, give it a slight snugging more. Rinse, repeat, until no more leak. Be very cautious that you don't crank the fitting so tight that you strip out the threads, either the threads of the fitting OR the threads of what they're being screwed into.
That's the danger of the copper crush washers. Tighten them beyond the torque specs until they stop leaking, but if you go too tight, you strip the threads. Strip the threads, bingo, replace the fitting. Presuming one can be found. The item it's being screwed inTO as well. Now you're searching all over for both things, fitting, and receiver.

And remember, once a crush washer has been tightened onto, no matter how much, it must be replaced. It doesn't matter if you just put it on a minute ago, forgot something, and need to remove it to install the item you forgot. Unscrew the fitting, even the slightest amount from the torque spec, replace the crush washer. Putting an old item back in, because "it worked before with it in", new washers. No matter what, unscrew a fitting with a crush washer in it, replace the washer. That's why it's a very good idea to have a bunch of washers that fit properly before you start. It's easy to need to replace the same washer several times.
Never, ever, reuse one in any way.

Good luck to you
Pat☺

 

Sorry, I misspoke. I actually used the correct aluminum crush washers. I always mistakenly refer to them as copper.

So I tightened the washers a bit and I have no more leaks. So the advice I will follow for myself in the future is tighten the washers to spec and then even tighten a little bit more without using too much force. I understand some may think this is a bad idea, but after this experience I am confident it will work fine for me.

I only now need to confirm the passenger side connections aren't leaking. I can see that the one in front isn't, but I'm going to use an endoscope camera to look at the other later today.

 

IMHO, a better method would be to tighten them to torque specified in the FSM, then check for leaks. IF there's a leak, fine, snug it slightly more. If no leak, though, leave them at the torque the FSM specs.
That's just my opinion, for what it's worth. That's just the way *I* do it, but as a mechanic, I make a darn good radar technician, you know?

BTW, when was the last time you got your torque wrench calibrated? Ideally, they should be re-caled once a year. Ideally.
Could it be you're torquing them to what you think is spec, but your wrench is off a bit? So really, the "snugging the fittings down a little more" than FSM spec is actually making them the correct torque? Just a possibility.
No, I don't get mine calibrated either, but ideally, one SHOULD. I'm cheap...errr....frugal. VERY frugal.

Good luck!
Pat☺