3VZE Major Tune Up
Aug 15, 2015 | 08:36 PM
#1
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3VZE Major Tune Up
Alright... first things first. Please keep the 3.slow comments away. 
I know the debate. I love both for different reasons. So THAT's out of the way! Question is this... What are the main requirements for a major tune-up. Im at 150,000 miles and I would like to do most, if not all, of this by myself. I understand the basics, but it would be helpful to hear 3VZE specifics. Also, what brands to stay away from and what brands to stick to on certain things. My 3VZE seems to idle high on start up and sounds very choppy, as if it is missing, but the plugs tell me it isn't missing. I would like to take this opportunity to do a major tune up. So reply away.
1989 Toyota SR5 V6 Ext. Cab... and sadly its an auto
(I'm swapping it pretty soon)
I know the debate. I love both for different reasons. So THAT's out of the way! Question is this... What are the main requirements for a major tune-up. Im at 150,000 miles and I would like to do most, if not all, of this by myself. I understand the basics, but it would be helpful to hear 3VZE specifics. Also, what brands to stay away from and what brands to stick to on certain things. My 3VZE seems to idle high on start up and sounds very choppy, as if it is missing, but the plugs tell me it isn't missing. I would like to take this opportunity to do a major tune up. So reply away.1989 Toyota SR5 V6 Ext. Cab... and sadly its an auto
(I'm swapping it pretty soon)
Aug 15, 2015 | 08:45 PM
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Do you have this: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/64tuneup.pdf ?
And this: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../1maintena.pdf ?
And this: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../1maintena.pdf ?
ill be damn, i didnt know they had PDF for it all. thanks man.
Aug 16, 2015 | 06:45 AM
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I consider the FSM to be the last word on these matters, but where they call for Special Service Tools it's worth doing a search here. For instance, if you want to change the timing belt you need to remove the crank bolt (and put it back!). There's an SST to keep the crank from turning as you try to remove the bolt, but you'll be better off building your own. (e.g., https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/ , but this is only one of several good ones)
Aug 16, 2015 | 09:56 AM
#5
I get my fuel filter from the local part store, my Denso wires off of ebay for about $25 and that includes shipping. Everything else common to tune up (plugs, cap, rotor, oil filter) I get from the dealer. They are not as high priced as most may think. Best quality parts that you can get and in some cases cheaper or same price as part stores top shelf brand.
Even with top shelf brand cap and plugs, I have had the wires work out of the cap. Never once I have I experienced that with Denso.
Even with top shelf brand cap and plugs, I have had the wires work out of the cap. Never once I have I experienced that with Denso.
Aug 17, 2015 | 09:57 AM
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I get my fuel filter from the local part store, my Denso wires off of ebay for about $25 and that includes shipping. Everything else common to tune up (plugs, cap, rotor, oil filter) I get from the dealer. They are not as high priced as most may think. Best quality parts that you can get and in some cases cheaper or same price as part stores top shelf brand.
Even with top shelf brand cap and plugs, I have had the wires work out of the cap. Never once I have I experienced that with Denso.
Even with top shelf brand cap and plugs, I have had the wires work out of the cap. Never once I have I experienced that with Denso.
Regarding your ruff idle, the injectors my need a good cleaning with some Lucas or Chevron w Techron. Also does any white smoke come out the pipe when its cold?
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Aug 17, 2015 | 10:06 AM
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Well i have already changed the fuel filter (removed bed, way easier IMHO). The truck blows white smoke out he back at first start up and sometimes it continues for an extended period. It is very humid here in MS so maybe condensation and moisture is causing that but it seems... excessive. I have already replaced the O2 sensor too so thats not it. And there are zero bubbles coming up in my radiator. Sooooo idk what the deal is about the white smoke. It smells bad too. A little bit gassy, pun intended. It seems to happen even after the engine has been previously pretty warm.
Aug 17, 2015 | 10:16 AM
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Stick your hand in the exhaust. If it comes away oily, the white smoke is probably oil. If it comes away damp, smell it. Does it smell like anti-freeze? Then it could be coolant.
If your hand comes away wet but doesn't smell like anything in particular, that's normal (at least soon after startup).
If your hand comes away wet but doesn't smell like anything in particular, that's normal (at least soon after startup).
Aug 17, 2015 | 01:59 PM
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Well its got a bit of an odd sweet smell to it. And my hand gets extremely wet just about instantly. The smoke goes away after i drive it a while but I've tried to just sit in the driveway and let it run until i cant see smoke but I've ended up sitting for probably about ten minutes and it still smokes.
Sep 26, 2015 | 06:07 PM
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[QUOTE=JHalcyonM;52284983]Well its got a bit of an odd sweet smell to it. And my hand gets extremely wet just about instantly.
.... but enough about your sister. LOL!
I am at 149K and just replaced the plugs, cap, wires, rotor, and I ordered & installed a set of Flamethrower injectors. I cleaned the gunk out of the intake & throttle body while I was there, using Easy-Off oven cleaner. New PCV & valve cover gaskets. Timing is advanced just a tad.. 13-15-ish. And I seafoamed it. night v. day difference. Definitely DENSO. Amsoil 10w-30 Z-rod oil with the extra zinc. New Oil, Air & Fuel filters. New-ish Tranny filter & Amsoil synthetic tranny fluid. And i greased the driveline using Lucas Red. New Toyo Open Country A/T II tires this week. New-ish Bilsteins all around. She's runs as smooth as a fat chick on ice. But enough about your sister :p
.... but enough about your sister. LOL!
I am at 149K and just replaced the plugs, cap, wires, rotor, and I ordered & installed a set of Flamethrower injectors. I cleaned the gunk out of the intake & throttle body while I was there, using Easy-Off oven cleaner. New PCV & valve cover gaskets. Timing is advanced just a tad.. 13-15-ish. And I seafoamed it. night v. day difference. Definitely DENSO. Amsoil 10w-30 Z-rod oil with the extra zinc. New Oil, Air & Fuel filters. New-ish Tranny filter & Amsoil synthetic tranny fluid. And i greased the driveline using Lucas Red. New Toyo Open Country A/T II tires this week. New-ish Bilsteins all around. She's runs as smooth as a fat chick on ice. But enough about your sister :p
Last edited by GO_BLUE!; Sep 26, 2015 at 06:43 PM.
Sep 28, 2015 | 05:30 AM
#14
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start with a hot chemical flush.... of everything, lol..... really, though, the oil system, chemical flush it before oil change. trans flush, power steering. you want to knock everything built-up off and than get rid of it. including changing the brake (if applicable clutch too) fluid and radiator..... i hear the belt should only go like 80k, though mine is twice that, as yours probably is. i think it's more like a time thing, as you can have a 15 year old belt be in the same condition at 10 miles ans a 10 year old belt at 150,000 miles... either way, if you don't know it's been changed at east this decade, probably should get it done now..... and of course, all the gear fluids and greasing. check free-play on the ring and pinions first. and all suspension components. at my old job, it was called a "c-service" every 50k and we would tear down all the diffs and planetaries (complicated hubs) and etc, and at least change all fluids....
Mar 4, 2019 | 08:04 PM
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Have a 91’ 3vze 4Runner and I am right around 155k and got the hair also so I brought it in the shop and did full EGR/pair delete along with all hard lines gone away with! I put some iridium NGK plus and some like $60 NGK wires in! I also got a cold air intake lol just a cheaply to see, works great (eBay) new high flow fuel pump and new fuel pump relay! Oh and this thing called The Fuel Maxximizer! Idk it was like 20$ and claimed 35 more horses! And oils and radiator flush and new coolant! But I’m gonna tell yeah I have had a suuped up 3.4 that people thought was turbo charged cause of the injectors and intake and chip but honestly my Runner is a completely new machine way more power sound and just throttle response! All in all problem into it $350 and quite a few hours but it’s dam cold up here in Idaho and I am by no means a mechanic! Oh seafoamed the intake plhuemal i did valve cover gaskets and plemal gaskets too but that was just caus I didn’t know what I was doing and got to deep! Lol so 3. Slow no more!!!!
Mar 5, 2019 | 10:47 AM
#16
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From: Safford, AZ
Have a 91’ 3vze 4Runner and I am right around 155k and got the hair also so I brought it in the shop and did full EGR/pair delete along with all hard lines gone away with! I put some iridium NGK plus and some like $60 NGK wires in! I also got a cold air intake lol just a cheaply to see, works great (eBay) new high flow fuel pump and new fuel pump relay! Oh and this thing called The Fuel Maxximizer! Idk it was like 20$ and claimed 35 more horses! And oils and radiator flush and new coolant! But I’m gonna tell yeah I have had a suuped up 3.4 that people thought was turbo charged cause of the injectors and intake and chip but honestly my Runner is a completely new machine way more power sound and just throttle response! All in all problem into it $350 and quite a few hours but it’s dam cold up here in Idaho and I am by no means a mechanic! Oh seafoamed the intake plhuemal i did valve cover gaskets and plemal gaskets too but that was just caus I didn’t know what I was doing and got to deep! Lol so 3. Slow no more!!!!
Mar 5, 2019 | 04:35 PM
#17
Do you have this: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/64tuneup.pdf ?
And this: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../1maintena.pdf ?
And this: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../1maintena.pdf ?
Thanks
Hump
Mar 5, 2019 | 06:51 PM
#18
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From: San Francisco East Bay
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