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3vze over heating after rebuild

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Old May 21, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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3vze over heating after rebuild

Can someone plz help me I have a 1990 Toyota pick up 3.0 v6 3vze I blew a head gasket tore it down had the heads reworked while the heads were off I took the bottom end out had the cylinders bored .20 over had it decked crank polished new main bearings rod bearings oil pump rear main new pistons rings water pump radiator thermostat u name it has it brand new fresh rebuild and it's running hot I un hooked the heater core an have it goin back strait in to the motor I think it might have air in it been trying to get it out I don't know what else to do I deff don't want to over heat and blow another gasket any help plz
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Old May 21, 2014 | 07:33 PM
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
How are you determining it is running hot?
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Old May 21, 2014 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rworegon
How are you determining it is running hot?
Well the temp gage is goin to the red I shut it off befor that though top rad hose is HOT and the Bottom is warm it is circulating but I'm gonna try it with out the T stat in a min if that dosent work I'm gonna pull my hair out lol
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Old May 21, 2014 | 08:18 PM
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From: Lancaster CA
did you bleed the system? run the engine with the radiator cap off and jack the front of the truck up as high as you can.
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Old May 21, 2014 | 11:09 PM
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I have parked on a hill picked the front end up 3 foot off the ground with an excavator all it does is push nothin but water out
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Old May 22, 2014 | 02:38 AM
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hope you didnt use evergreen head gaskets , i hear they are upside down and block off a coolent passage between the head and block .

besides that when you rebuild and engine you need to clean out or replace everything that coolent runs through including the heater or when you hook the nice clean fresh engine back up it will blow all that crap out of the heater and contaminate your engine again .

did you use a new radiator or have your old one checked and flushed aswell ?
besides a blocked cooling system it could be a problem with the heads or gaskets .

if you cant be ˟˟˟˟ed with it then just get a big ass thermo fan and big ass transmission cooler and see how it gos .

iv heard a couple of people have put thermo wrap on the crossover pipe which has helped alot with cooling .
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Old May 22, 2014 | 08:33 AM
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Yea it has a new rad and I didn't hook the heater core up I bypassed it
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Old May 22, 2014 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by fangz
hope you didnt use evergreen head gaskets , i hear they are upside down and block off a coolent passage between the head and block.
Upside down? Yes and no. Depends on who you ask. If you ask me, yes, they're upside down. But so are the latest OEM HGs.

Block off a coolant passage? Potentially, if you install them incorrectly. But that goes for any other brand of HG for this engine as well.

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Old May 22, 2014 | 11:55 AM
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did you give the block a good clean when it came back from being decked ? did you get it acid bathed aswell ? even after an acid bath the coolent passages and where the coolent flows past the cylinders will need a good wire brushing , u can squeeze a small brush in through the freeze plug holes , after that a spray with a small pressure cleaner to blow out and remove the rest of the crap in there .
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Old May 22, 2014 | 12:04 PM
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hi mudfippy , i wonder how many people have done the head gaskets on their vehicles and then sat back wondering afterwards ...........FCUk ! did i put them on the right way ? haha
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Old May 22, 2014 | 01:33 PM
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Good question. All I know is...I'm not one of them.

I forgot to mention the other things I'd be taking a look at, if I were the OP. The ECT sender and sensor. You might not think to suspect the sensor. But I've had that screw with the temp gauge too. I can't really explain why/how though. Because, theoretically, it shouldn't.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 07:52 AM
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Ok update I was able to flinch the cooling system and it's running cool now but I'm have a bit of trouble with it idle ing ruff like it's missing it has new plugs and wires new cap and button so I don't think it's that how would I tell if it's injectors or distributer like I said it has a skip to it and thank u all for all your comment it has helped a lot and lol I was wondering there for a while if I put the head gaskets on backwards but I guess I didn't thank goodness
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Old May 23, 2014 | 09:10 AM
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Testing the injectors, especially on this engine, can be a huge PITA. Considering that, I'd probably(though not at all necessarily, see below) start with the distributor. As in, just go buy a new one. Because even one that checks out fine, can still be the cause of the issue. I know this because I just fixed a similar skip/miss on my 90 with a new dizzy. Which had me going around in circles for a few weeks prior trying to figure out the cause of. Still can't quite figure out why that did it. But it sure enough did. The shaft did have some end play. But not a whole lot of it. Checked out o.k. electrically though. I dunno.

HOWEVER, I could be entirely wrong about that being your problem too. So, first, you might want to work your way down the list of things to troubleshoot rough idling found in the FSM. The distributor being 5th on the list. With fuel quality(1st), the ECT sensor circuit(2nd), the EGR system(3rd), and spark plugs(4th) ranking higher as potential causes. With fuel injectors being MUCH further down the list at 16th.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...63troubles.pdf

Last edited by MudHippy; May 23, 2014 at 09:16 AM.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 10:30 AM
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Well I'm pretty sure the file is fine while the motor was out I dropped the tank cleaned it had the lines flushed and I'm runnin premium ethanol free gas I'm. Gonna advance the timing to 10 and see what that does my injectors were cleaned to so we will see what the timing does
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Old May 23, 2014 | 11:03 AM
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Say huh?

I'm I hearing you correctly? Do you mean by "advance the timing to 10" that it's currently running more retarded than that?

If so, well there's your problem. If not, retarding it to 10° won't likely make any difference. Other than lowering the idle speed.

You also need to check for codes. If you already haven't.

Last edited by MudHippy; May 23, 2014 at 02:05 PM.
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Old May 27, 2014 | 12:18 PM
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Ok I have tried just about everything did a compression check no broken rings valves are good injectors are fine new plugs wires cap and button still running like crap vacuum lines are good not completely sure there rite I have checked diagrams and from what I can see of the itty bitty print there rite all ground wires are bolted to the block haven't checked for codes yet cause it won't read it for some reason I tryed it about. 4 years ago when I got the truck so I just don't know what to do now if there is a trick the getting the comp to read te codes could someone let me know other wise I am lost seems like I have tried it all thanks again for all your help so far
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Old May 27, 2014 | 12:29 PM
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Also I am not trying to creep or how ever u wana call it but if any of u live in alabama or know some one who does I would be happy to pay someone to come look at it cause mechanics around here are scared of the 3.0 and won't touch it so the only ppl that know how to work on it are the ppl who have owned one and had to do the work them selfs thanks for all your help
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