I have an 87 4runner
Been searching threads but I don't see a thing.

I had a bad switch up front so I removed it and was putting my window up and down with bare wire.
One day I jumped in and the window went down.
I touched the wires together to get it back up and nothing happened but a relay click. I did this several more times and each time the relay click became softer until I no longer got a click. The 20amp fuse is okay and I've put three different KNOW TO WORK relays in. No difference.
If I manually move the limit switch, the relay clicks but that's the only time. Also the door (up down) switch has no relay click. I can't use my wiper either.
I cleaned up sound grounds and tested the window motor. It works.
Please help me so I don't spend endless hours tracing this to nowhere.

 

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...arWindow.shtml

 

I read that from another thread. It didn't help.

 

I would guess from you jumping the plug you might have pulled the wires enough .

That they rubbed on something and were cut enough to allow the window to go down by itself. Or the arcing burned the wires off.

Have you checked the circuit breaker ?? If this has been tripping it may have died of old age .

The motor gets system voltage from the 15 amp engine fuse.

You changed the correct relay as this is a solid state relay you should not hear it pull in .I never have heard mine.

The one behind the trim panel on the left side with 13 wires coming into it.

One thing at a time at least with the trim panel off it is easy to trouble shoot.

 

The window originally went down when I bumped the seat into the wires and they made contact.

The breaker is the little yellow cylinder by the fuse box? I pulled it out and it came out far too easy. Now it doesn't seem to want to go back in to place. Can these be found anywhere?

 

Also, I just replaced the whole relay box. I have three extras from other trucks.

 

What makes you sure that the relays you replaced original with is good?
(If something's wrong with your wiring/switches, you might wrongly suspect the replacement relays as bad, too.)

Got power at pin 6 at all times as long as battery is good and connected?
Got power at PIn 8 when ignition is on, battery is good and connected?
Tailgate Key Switch Works?

To test if relay works:
Try jumping 4 then 5 one at a time directly to ground to see if that moves the window.
Then 11 and 12 one at a time.

For troubleshooting, purposes, temporarily jump blue with red stripe wire of Cover Top Off switch to ground. This will bypass door lock detector switch.



Nothing fancy about that circuit breaker. It just plugs back in.

 

Does the tailgate key switch work? If you put power to the window, does it operate?

Try adding a ground to the blue wire on the window switch harness to a good known body ground. That fixes alot of issues. If I do not have that extra ground in place, it will not work or click the relay.

 

PLEASE DON'T!
That would be a hack job- something we curse P.O.'s for. Adding a ground wire directly to the switch will bypass safety door lock detect switch, cover top off switch and window lock switch which are there for our and the truck;s protection.

IF your system needs a bypass ground wire in order to work, there must be something wrong with the connection, wiring or switches. Fix the root cause. Those switches are located in a bad place so I relocated mine. One day in those past 26 years, someone may have spilled soda, or coffee on those switches.

Depending on what year, which blue wire?

 

I would not consider it a Hack job. I got the advice from Terry in fact. And I dont believe that he does HACK work either. I tried to trace down the issue and replace/go through every component. I have lost a ground somewhere along the way, and this has resolved my issue. Now the window works with all switches and functions how it should. There are plenty of people including Terry and Myself that have done this with success.

I am just trying to give him some options to get it moving.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52080781

 

No adding a ground wire to the console switch by passes all the safeties at least on mine.

I can raise and lower the window with the hatch open .

which means if I forget the window will open all the way and the glass break which was a real pain to clean up .

 

Never had that happen to me. I was just simply trying toake a suggestion to help him out like others have for me.

 

As in any mod there are bound to be some risk and this may not be for everybody. On any mod you should look and see if it is for what you want or not.

For myself, I tried checking, replacing and fixing all of the safeties and still had problems. In my opinion all of my relays worked but I think with the age, worn, or loose pieces in the tailgate, getting all of the adjustments made was a never ending battle. I have seen some that were just ready for a toggle switch to solve their problems.

I have a wife, 2 kids and a dog all in both of my runners with this mod made and have never had a problem with it. It is possible for the glass to go up with the roof off and could cause a problem but in the two or three years, this has never even once been an issue of the glass going up. One other mod that I am gong to do, not for safety but to help protect the switch from dust and debris getting into it, but would make a good safety is to relocate the switch under the ashtray. Then it would be nearly impossible to hit the switch.

As it is from the factory, the switch is recessed enough to be fairly protected from an object sitting on it and raising the glass. The electrical systems in these trucks is not the best. Cigarette lighter circuit, alternator, injector harness, and the Starting Circuits all have mods on here that may not appeal to everyone but I am glad to have been mentioned as they are problematic.

I have 2 runner that I have done this two and if you look at the builds on them, I have too much time, effort, and money to send one up in an electrical fire that I did what works best for me. Not every one may like it but several are glad to have it and if you are constantly plagued with the back glass issue, it may be for you. As in any mod, you should investigate on your own and see what you think.

In the picture below is just for how I do mine. I did eventually solder, heat shrink and wrap with electrical tape and have no intentions of ever going back to the way the factory did it.

Copied...
Running a ground wire from this wire on the plug, the blue wire to the place on the pic below elminates a lot of problems.


Ground to center consloe mounting tab.


The ground wire bypasses the following safety switches. Cover Top and Door Lock Detections switch. Your window will roll up with top off. This is on Page 12-23 of the Haynes Manual where the key is to the botom of the page.
Haynes "L" for Blue, "R" for Red. Key is pointing to wire.

 

The reason the wire goes to the front bracket is the rear bracket is isolated on plastic and will not give a ground.

If your Relay Box, Motor, and Switch is good, most likely one or more of the safeties is causing a problem. The wiring harness is usually well protected.

 

Hey this kind of follows what i am trying to figure out. My rear window switch is missing a piece so I know the switch is broken. The guy I bought the truck from would touch two of the leads on the bottom of the switch to get it to work but I cant remember wich two leads to touch (using a battery jump starter). Other then that I would just really like to rewire a new switch up by my dashboard, problem is i dont know what wires to run to a new switch. do I run it straight from the relay in the driverside door panal? what wires do i connect to a new switch.
this has been driving me nuts, i cant really use the back of my 4runner right now