Okay guys, its been 2k since an Oil change and I lost over a quart. Blowby is getting worse, oil is covering engine due to it. Basically what I'm saying is after 342,000 miles the original 22r is a bit wore out. I'm planning to replace it as soon as funds permit (most likely August).

Alright, I know I'm going with the Oregon Engine Rebuilder's longblock. My buddy just got one for his jeep from them, he said its great in all aspects, and they were very helpful. I hit up the net and also found several good reviews. My friend, an ASE certified mechanic said at 342k, longblock would be the best option, rebuilding would take a lot of machining, possibly taking longer than I have. My mind is made up on the longblock idea, plus I get the lifetime warranty.

Anyway, OER said that they provide a gasket kit with the engine to complete the engine. My question is, is there parts on my engine I should replace/rebuild before slapping them on the longblock? I'm already putting a new clutch on there, but what else? I also am planning to get another w50 (or if somebody knows of a tranny that would bolt in and line up, that'd be fine), as mine makes noises in 5th and 3rd. I have a used carb setting in my shop, I'm going to rebuild it, or get my buddy to rebuild it, as my current carb's fast idle is screwed up beyond repair. Getting the driveline balanced, replacing the diff oil, as well as revamping the exhaust, are some of my "while I'm in there" plans.

I'll admit, I'm a bit nervous about this, the truck is my mode of transport, and though I'll be able to borrow my grandpa's rig for about a week, not much longer. So I have one weeks to do it basically. Also, I'm shooting for a budget of two grand. It'll be a squeeze, but I think I'll make it.

Any opinions or helpful hints?

 

a quart in 2000 miles is very exceptable for a motor of that mileage. most manufactures say a quart in 1000 miles is exceptable for a motor of any mileage! if oil is covering the engine why don't you just fix the external leaks, and motor on ?

mike

 

compression is 145-160-40-150 for one, and I would have peace of mind with a rebuilt one. And the engine covered in oil is being caused by the blowby, I can tell its getting blown past the valve cover seals.

believe me, if I thought all the engine problems would be fixed with a few new gaskets I would have done it a long while ago.

 

i would also budget in, a full tune up. cap rotor plugs wires etc..

i just got done rebuilding my 22re. got about 5 miles on her. it only cost me about 1k. how much are you paying for your longblock?

 

1k, a decent deal, I think, compared with the costs of machining, and the elimination of the "oh " feeling once I get the engine apart and realize something (like I don't know what I'm doing)

Oh yes, I did plan a full tune-up in there.

 

Hose's and belt's, Check all the vacuum lines. Look at the motor mounts. All the soft stuff is a little suspect. Fuel & air filter. Pcv valve. Don't know if your model has an EGR system or not but if it does I'd check that now while its still running. Water pump, also take a look at the lower radiator pipe the one the lower hose hooks to. They can rust out from the inside and it's easier to check with the motor out. There are two idler pullies, if you have AC. The one for the alternater and power steering you can rebuild, once you have it in your hand pull the clip and drive the bearing out. You can take that bearing to the parts store and they can match it for you. The ac one isnt rebuildable at least the one on my 91 wasnt. Found a good one at the upullit cheap. Check the fan cluth as well. All these are good peace of mind things.
Easier to assemble than replace later.
Things I replaced or inspected when I did my rig with 275,000 on it.
Just my .02
Jim

 

well now we no the rest of the story. the third cylinder is bad! i am surprised it doesn't have a real bad misfire?

 

amazingly besides a slight rough cold idle, the truck appears to run good. Beats me.

Anyway, no A/C or P/S. I'm planning to redo all hoses, motor mounts, and also I'm doing a rebuild kit for the water and oil pumps. Thanks guys and keep the suggestions coming.

 

double post

 

40 psi (3rd cylinder) is not enough to sustain combustion! you should have a major misfire! i would double check you compression #'s.
even if # 3 really is 40psi it could be a valve? which is alot cheaper than a long block!

 

pretty sure its rings actually, adding oil brought it up to around 100. Oh and I'm using a cheap POS hold in gauge, so thats probably lower than actual compression. Thanks for your help.