So, I'm trying to figure out what to do for my saggy butt. It doesn't look too bad to me, but what do you guys think? How bad is it sagging? I pulled the spare tire off, and the cargo area is empty.



From top of tire to bottom of fender, I measured 8.5"


Here, I measured 7"


Shot of front end of leaf spring. Do stock Toyota leaf springs only come with 4 per pack?


Rear of leaf spring

 

hey, its not as bad as mine! haha, im not sure but yours has leaf springs to correct the sag.

 

Hasn't this been covered before? Seems I remember some threads about this in a....SEARCH! Hehehe...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/bj-spacers-131374/

Pretty sure that's a stock leaf pack. AAL's and/or longer shackles.....if you still want that all desired flex. But, like the man said...it's not that bad. You're not even totally on the overload yet.

 

Partly an optical illusion. Front wheel well is cut higher than the rear wheel well, so even a perfectly level vehicle will appear to sag in the rear. To get an accurate measurement, measure from ground to frame at two points between the wheels. If you were to pick two points ~51" apart, then double the difference to get the real height difference at the wheels (~102" wheel base).

Looks like stock rear springs. You can always turn down the front torsion bars to level things out, or some lift ideas for the rear:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...es.shtml#FAQ14

 

Excuse me, please....

4crawler...
I just read that link...I've somehow missed it reading your articles before. You mentioned shims for the pinion when using longer shackles. I'm not using longer shackles, but I have installed coils over the axle (Zuk's mod) which bring the rear end up 1/2" higher than the front. I like it that way and I really like the load capacity I now have. Flex I could care less about for the application of my vehicle. But, my question is with the the rear being that much higher is the shims something I should do? And why? I assume accelerated wear on the pinion and seal.

 

Thanks guys, I did happen to measure what I thought was equal points between front and rear wheels. I got 19" by the front, and 20" by the rear. I wanted to get your guys' opinions because I was thinking of ordering springs, then just shackles, then just rearching etc etc etc. I really like the OME leafs, but that's the priciest mod of my options.

 

With respect to what 4crawler mentioned - even if the truck appears saggy when it is level, 1st gen and 2nd gen 4runners always look awesome with their saggy ends fixed (or sorry, maybe more correctly, appearing to have their saggy ends fixed). They look better if the rear end appears (or is) slightly higher than the front. I've seen a few like this and they look so much better.

 

Where'd you measure from? If you have 1" greater difference in the rear you are not sagging. But, with that much difference you're leafs wouldn't be perched where they are, either. So, somethings not right here. Try measuring at the line where that runs through the middle of the side of the vehicle.....where the body begins to contour on the side....or the bottom of the body...doesn't matter. Measure from the floor as close to either wheel/fender as you can get.

If you're not hauling weight, and with the shape of those springs, rearching would last a little while for you. Put another leaf (new one) and rearching will last even longer. But, you don't need to go much higher than you are, so you don't need shackles really. Unless, you did just shackles. That the very cheapest and you'd be on the road much faster.

 

there was recall im not sure what (my dad never told me) and it raises the front of the truck higher and higher as it starts break and warp. You might want to check in on that my dads is doing it again so it obviously aint a pemanenet fix but atleast it may help fo awhile till they find one (or you find one).

 

I'll re-measure to that line you said. I thought it didn't seem right either, but that's what I got to the bottom of the body. The shackles I was looking at were $75 shipped. Greasable and would give me a 2" lift. The OME's will run me about $240 for a 2" lift, and rearching would be about $125. Of all the options, I trust the new OME's the most, but like I said. Priciest and I'm also trying to get my hands on all 4 BJs since I just bought some BJ spacers, and I'm also trying to regear for my 33s. Oh and also trying to cop an e-locker. So at this point, every penny counts and I'm trying to spend my money extremely carefully.

 

there are a few w/t things you could do.


get tiny wheels for the front. and big-uns for the rear
or
cut the springs in the front.

 

Thats like so cool like how some people like use math and stuff like ya know like?

 

DJ, I just measured my 4runner. From the top of the rim to the fender lip in back it's 12 1/2", in front it's 14".
I have stock length 4crawler shackles and 3" Downey springs in back and BJ spacers and relaxed torsions in the front. My truck sits level as far as I can tell.

Hope that helps
Robb

 

Thanks Robb. Yes it does help. Your truck has 1.5" more of gap in the front. So does mine. I think that means I'm sitting pretty level. I was gona install the BJ spacers and relax the torsions as well. Maybe I don't need anything back there after all? Then again, once I put a spare back on there, I'm sure the truck will drop a lil more in the back.

I just thought of this. If you have the Downey 3" springs and BJ spacers with relaxed T-bars, wouldn't your truck sit higher in back? What weight do you have back there?

 

If you want the lift do the 2-3" in the rear and the BJ's up front and it should level it out very well or raise the rear just a bit.

 

i say sell it and buy a truggy!!

 

? How would cutting the front springs do anything but destroy them?

Frank

 

But won't the BJ spacers with relaxed t-bars leave me back at stock height in the front? So with a 2-3" rear lift, it will be much higher in the rear? I'm only doing the BJ spacers for more travel, not lift.