RAGE!

Charge circuit acting up. Smelled burning rubber on the way to work, the alternator belt was fraying. Put the new one on during break, then tightened it all up during meal break. And it's not charging untill 3000rpm, it was fine except the burning frayed belt now it's not. Hoping it's just not tight but it's below freezing out now and only going to get colder by the time I get off work.

I did notice a bit of weeping in the valve cover gasket so cinched that down some more, better late than never I guess.

 

But I thought you had new alternator.
Checked IG, S and B voltages? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52094780

 

Yeah new alternator on or around the seventh, about two weeks.<br /><br />Brush assembly in the new one totally destroyed, brush contacts mangled, carbon everywhere (couldn't be sure what was oil/coking, and what was plastic).<br /><br />Old one had a little bit of Charing, a sticking brush, and dirty contact on the inner one.<br /><br />I spend a couple hours, freezing, playing see it or touch it to get them swapped around. Cleaned up the first one and put it back in. Got a random charge light situation, but not a good charge. Made it about halfway to my kids house before it (battery voltage) started to conk out, then had him come pick me up. Jump charged it for five minutes and drove it to storage, swapped out for my hatchback (that I hate driving) untill I get time to get it clean, dry, and maybe go yell at the parts counter guy for such a crappy "replacement" (it didn't direct fit, and died really quickly).

 

Finally got the alternator ordered from denso!

​​​At checkout it says 2-4 days expected to ship.

Got a confirmation email yesterday that said it was expectes to ship on 6-20 #&$-@@.

No response yet from customer service but I'm seeing a pending charge on my card, which should show up until it has shipped.. So fingers crossed it's on its way from near by and not some Chinese casting, because I really don't want another "almost fits" one.

Going to need to dig into the power steering and maybe some other leaks. Might fab a splash guard as well. A sealed water cooled unit is supposed to be bombproof but they are four digits $$$$.

 

Update? You mean June 20?

 

​​ordered the 19, got an updated ETA on 20, sent an email on 21 asking if that was an error..

Got this response on the 25th

"Thank you for your email. I'm sorry for the delay. You placed your order on April 19th. An approximate lead time of 2-4 business days was quoted for us to obtain the part from the manufacturer.

Once the order entered our system Denso (the manufacturer) indicated to us that they had no stock and that they were currently manufacturing this part. They in turn provided an estimated revised lead time of 60-90 days. This lead time was updated and provided to you (June 19th). You are currently first in line to receive the next 210-0106 we receive in. Please advise how you wish to proceed."

Several days ago they released the hold on my money.. (Refunded)

Then today I got a tracking number in email and the charge is shown again..

Will update next weekend once I see it if it's the correct part and try to determine if it's an original casting.

 

ND stamped shield.


Denso has a large receptacle for its charge wire weathershield (rubber boot)



Casting difference notable on the large tang it tension pivots on.


This is not the part number for my manufacture date, or my alternator bracked isnt correct.


So I've done this alternator thing a few times this year, couple in subzero yummieness.. So yiu might be wondering how best to approach it right?

Try this, dropped in from. above you may need to shove a PS line over to clear the lower tabs. It should "fall right in" (don't drop it!)

 

So I was pulling into work yesterday and noticed some trans lag/slippage. My rear seal leaks abit I discovered when i did the shaft joints, but I was pretty sure the driveshaft was still holding its seal like it was when I found it was leaking.

Now headed home, I go to add fluid. I've got the engine running to check the level. Setting my jugs and stuff down in front of the 4runner, I notice a drop dripping in the corner of my eye then another and another!

The transmission cooler lines are rubbing just aft of the foremost clamp, and the upper one is leaking.

Thinking maybe I swapped the front for the rear bracket, it got bent, or I've just somehow installed it wrong.

Going to need pictures of how it "should" be.

​​​​​

 

Left: old (firestone winterforce, 265/75r15)
Right: new (goodyear wrongler, 235/75r15)

Thought I picked up another spike from the wooden bridge, because I heard a rhythmic noise on the way to lunch. Inspecting before I left work I found a half inch split opening up. Tire guy said it had some broken belts.

It's lighter steering for sure, and the speedometer is lots closer to accurate.

It is way to low, and I'm not real happy about how it fills the wheel wells. Also one of the tire assemblies needed a long ugly double weight to balance.

On the upside I didn't get stranded and have a blowout.

 

The Firestone's almost 31/10.5 r15
The Goodyear's amost 29/9.5 r15

My 4R came with 215/80 R15, the ones I'm running right now, they're almost 29/9 r15. The 4R looks like it has Matchbox tires, but the old 22RE reacts faster, final speed's faster, and the fuel economy's better, very good in the highway, but stay away of sand and mud.
I can't find the ones I really want, the old military style pizza cutters, all terrain 33/9.5 r15.

 

​​​​​​Feels and looks more like it lost two inches from the radius not the diameter. I keep smacking my head on the door opening, and I can see it clearly. On top of that the speedometer is matching gps. These Goodyear tires seem to match the 225/75 that is called for on the door plate.

I guess on the plus side the road noise is way better.

 

So that time of year is approaching, for some of us, where maintenance becomes painful..

Off with the valve cover, check head bolts, cam wear, and valve clearances.

Start by spraying off any oil, dust or grime from the top and sides of the valve cover. (Throttle or brake cleaner, depending on how bad it is.)

Unplug the AC idleup vsv electrical and disconnect the vacuum lines (upper hose from plenum goes to the forward port of the switch). Loosen the intake pipe from the throttle body and swing it out of the way. Unclip the EGR vacuum modulator from its bracket and push it down between the two intake halves. Unclip egr VCV and lay over plenum. Unplug oxygen sensor and ignition feedback harness. Ignition is usually on the firewall, mine is relocated to the front of the engine because Turbo heat. Disconnect PCV hoses, I pull the valve wrap in a rag and wedge off to the side instead of undoing clamps. Remove or relocate the PS idleup lines (mine are extra long so they just need tied up around the front engine pick hook). Remove acorn nuts then spin, pry and wiggle gromets off. The cover is ready to come off, it needs to be lifted slightly off the head and moved forward then up off and clear.

It is surprisingly quick and easy to do this on the 22re of this era, don't let it intimidate you!


....
Cam lobes look good, no ridges on the sides and no visible wear or pitting.

Head bolts, @#$% forward middle two exhaust moved at 45lbs aswell as the forward intake (tightened to 50 following pattern). Rear most intake moved at 50 (another round of pattern at 55 ensued). Followed by a final round at spec of 58.

Valve clearances, number four intake could maybe be a little tighter it's always my noisier one I think it's not as accessible.

(The dog ate my homework, er uh pictures.. Ok fine I just didn't take any. I needed to get done before traffic on the dirt road started kicking up dust!)

 

Went down to the local parts chain. Asked for a foot section of bulk automatic transmission cooler line atleast 10mm to sleeve the hardlines.

While I was waiting in line I pulled up a mm to inch converter, 10mm = 0.39". Cashier takes me to the back and we find cooler line. I said I'm not sure what .39 is fractionally let me look, they quickly respond "5/16" and I didn't verify...

Nope over 1mm to tight, and definitely not going to slide over grunge I quickly found out once I was back home and trying to put it on.

Out comes the converter and calipers again, yes it's a 10mm hard-line and what I needed was 3/8.

As a temporary patch I cut some of what I had length way and secured it over the worn spot with a clamp. It still weeps but compared to what it was its much better.

Still not sure why the mounting clamp isn't holding these in place I used another section of hose as a grommet in the mount.



Better angle but poor focus. Phone is between block and lines, impossible to focua


Lower hardline, wearthru lower right.


My grommet test fit number 1, wound up using less than a third of this inbetween the hardlines inside the bracket.


AT cooler line, overview from front


AT cooler line forward mount, open

 

 

Guy on night shift asked where I bought this at. Thinks he knows a previous owner, says he's paint the top twice once in orange and its current job. Also said it sat in the lake for a week.

 

In the lake? Underwater?

 

You say questionable history.

Do you mean the 4Runner, the guy on night shift, or both?!

 

Definitely going to have to ask him to tell that full story... I'm not real sure it applies to old 35266 here, but if it really does according to the "how rare is your Toyota thread" This is the only factory turbo 4runner in Nebrasky and its come back home again.

I don't see any orange in the paint layers on the cap and he called it a truck (common enough).. Did they bury a truck or a 4runner, and was it really mine kind of questionable?

It obviously wasn't babied it's whole life. When I bought it had high velocity mud spatter on interior panels, two caliber of empty shell casings rolling around the interior and a stack of paper targets under the seat.



Mud splatter!

still on it in places, I've never intentionally cleaned it but it's been wearing off slowly.

And of course there was the rear diff lube (don't have time to dig out that photo right now), so atleast once it's been buried upto the breather!

 

He says they were in the swamp and not water flowing over the bedsides or anything but wasn't coming out. So it sat till they could get it pulled out, then they found out why it got stuck, it was hung up on an old submerged tree stump.

 

Downpipe/O2-housing dropped a bolt awhile back and needs/gets checked once in a while or it starts to rattle and leak.

It was loose again today on my way home, rattle rattle at start up

The empathetic should stop reading now!