1986 Turbo 4-Runner (#36522)
Oct 12, 2019 | 05:29 AM
#264
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That really sucks 
How are you doing?
Do you think it's possibe to rebuild it? If that's the case, make a list of parts you need and upload it, maybe some member have extra parts lyiing around.
I hope you recover soon, keep us updated.
How are you doing?
Do you think it's possibe to rebuild it? If that's the case, make a list of parts you need and upload it, maybe some member have extra parts lyiing around.
I hope you recover soon, keep us updated.
Oct 12, 2019 | 09:57 AM
#265
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From: Colorado
Every time i walked around it id find just a bit more problems.
It's going to take a bit of metal work on the roof sheet. It did pull in a little bit from the front corner of the drivers side door.
The first bits I know for sure are glass. Lost the driver rear fixed window and the back glass as well as the windshield. And of course probably destroyed what was left of the sunroof, the one Spacejunk sent mestill had a decent hold on
There is a set of topper glass listed on the Denver Craigslist for a good price, like <10$ a piece good with a set of vent windows and frames included. I don't know when I'd be able to make it down there and the seller I assume needs the room real soon with that price. If someone wants to hang on to them I can PayPal some funds over =D
The next big bit I noticed a crack in the topper and when I wiggled it it was apparent it wasn't just a little crack but a major blow out in three directions. Probably more work hours in patching that than its worth and should be on the lookout for a take off someone might be selling.
One of the kids was asking about it and I thought maybe we could drop it's engine in the little red 94. That will get a little spendy. Custom harness, mega squirt, new intake piping with a blow-off valve (since it's manual transmission it's much more important). It's be loads of fun to drive I'm sure.
I'm headed out to the farm later today to seal up the windows to keep stray cats out of it before one of them gets the idea to spray/mark the interior. I'll try to get some detail photos
It's going to take a bit of metal work on the roof sheet. It did pull in a little bit from the front corner of the drivers side door.
The first bits I know for sure are glass. Lost the driver rear fixed window and the back glass as well as the windshield. And of course probably destroyed what was left of the sunroof, the one Spacejunk sent mestill had a decent hold on
There is a set of topper glass listed on the Denver Craigslist for a good price, like <10$ a piece good with a set of vent windows and frames included. I don't know when I'd be able to make it down there and the seller I assume needs the room real soon with that price. If someone wants to hang on to them I can PayPal some funds over =D
The next big bit I noticed a crack in the topper and when I wiggled it it was apparent it wasn't just a little crack but a major blow out in three directions. Probably more work hours in patching that than its worth and should be on the lookout for a take off someone might be selling.
One of the kids was asking about it and I thought maybe we could drop it's engine in the little red 94. That will get a little spendy. Custom harness, mega squirt, new intake piping with a blow-off valve (since it's manual transmission it's much more important). It's be loads of fun to drive I'm sure.
I'm headed out to the farm later today to seal up the windows to keep stray cats out of it before one of them gets the idea to spray/mark the interior. I'll try to get some detail photos
Oct 12, 2019 | 07:19 PM
#266
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From: Colorado
Not for the feint of heart!
Window gasket 1
Window gasket 2
Window gasket 3 (there were some questions about my gasket in the replacing the rust maker trim thread, well there it is..)
Part of this is the cowel not being attached. Thera a big divet on the right hand side. The hood opens but has some spring to it.
Inner left hand side of the shell
Inner right hand side of the shell
Right side , bit gap
Left side no gap
Looks like the cab is tweaked maybe. Door pops open when the latch is released.
Exploded driver side outside of topper.
Dent above indicators is new, some.of the ripple in the quarter was alwaya there but there is probably some new ones. (It was a really bad patch panel which i thibk ive mentiones before, loads of mig wire cut off on the inside of that patch. They tryed really hard not to warp it.)
The traumatized roof. Its multiple layers here. Fixing it means cutting the panel out at the spot welds and massaging it back into shape (Like i did the 94's quarter panel) while trying not to stretch it out with the hammer and dolly.
Got some indent on the side also. Dont know if thats from the accident or the recovery, it was pulled sideways quit a bit to get out of the gully.
The tire dislodged during recovery im pretty sure it was still "round" while upside down. Fender mangled but not ripped.
First look at it in clear daylight.
Oct 14, 2019 | 04:40 PM
#268
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From: Colorado
Not a bad haul for a few minutes digging thru the grass and snow.
Two bags of misc tools, micrometer, drill bit set, one of two hose clamp assortments, spare turbo gaskets, and a rear headrest (which I thought was a tool when I kicked it out of the snow).. AND that bag on the far right is ball-bearing for the hub's.. Found one of my silver half dollars also.
Got a few fingers slashed from the grass and glass. Will have to go back and see what else I can find once the rest of the snow melts off.
Pretty sure I got my dad's good craftsman wratchet back also.
Jan 19, 2020 | 08:34 PM
#273
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From: Colorado
You can probably spot the grungy headlight? That whole fender inside and out, as well as the frame and suspension bits, are just buried in "oil" which has grabbed onto all the dust it could find..
I was really kind of concerned with how much "oil" the turbo pumped out while it was on its side and upside down..
Well turns out that's actually all my transmission fluid that ran out the dipstick tube and not "oil". This was very apparent after putting it into gear to pull it into the garage and not going anywhere. Pulling the dipstick confirmed "yep you need some ATF sir!" Never having had to add any to it I didn't have even a single quart on hand and had to drive an hour to town to get some.
Got it pulled over next to the dumpster where I cut out the few bits of urethane holding the windshield reminents in and tossed it into the dumpster.
Pulled the screws out of the cowl and removed it and the wiper arms so the hood will quit rubbing.
Will take a few minutes to get the hood back in shape, but the cowl got a good bend or two due to the windshield shoving it down/forward.
The upper cab has a good bit of a bend to it. Topside of the drivers door has a maybe one inch gap, and the passenger side has a similar gap at the bottom (and springs open due to it..)
..
Oh and heart break! I rolled open the garage and there sat a lovely six drawer rolling tool chest. Ready to cry over my gift is hear my gal say, "Oh no that's mine." Guess I'm gonna a have to buy "her" some more tools and sorters trays.
I was really kind of concerned with how much "oil" the turbo pumped out while it was on its side and upside down..
Well turns out that's actually all my transmission fluid that ran out the dipstick tube and not "oil". This was very apparent after putting it into gear to pull it into the garage and not going anywhere. Pulling the dipstick confirmed "yep you need some ATF sir!" Never having had to add any to it I didn't have even a single quart on hand and had to drive an hour to town to get some.
Got it pulled over next to the dumpster where I cut out the few bits of urethane holding the windshield reminents in and tossed it into the dumpster.
Pulled the screws out of the cowl and removed it and the wiper arms so the hood will quit rubbing.
Will take a few minutes to get the hood back in shape, but the cowl got a good bend or two due to the windshield shoving it down/forward.
The upper cab has a good bit of a bend to it. Topside of the drivers door has a maybe one inch gap, and the passenger side has a similar gap at the bottom (and springs open due to it..)
..
Oh and heart break! I rolled open the garage and there sat a lovely six drawer rolling tool chest. Ready to cry over my gift is hear my gal say, "Oh no that's mine." Guess I'm gonna a have to buy "her" some more tools and sorters trays.
Jan 20, 2020 | 06:03 PM
#275
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From: Colorado
Spent another hour or so tonight with the shop vac. Started thinking, You know you didn't have to throw me into the ditch to get me to vacuum I would have got there eventually.
I did figure out the passenger slider goes alot farther forward than I thought after I got custom those exhaust flanges and stuff out from under it. =D
...
I've got the front seats cleaned up pretty well and two, no three, small containers of misc nuts, bolts, screws and other important things that need saved and sorted.
Tomorrow will be another go at the mid cabin area which should go pretty quickly.
Once I get to the area behind the rear seats there will be more glass, LOTS more glass, those rear windows aren't laminated.
I'm really tempted but trying to avoid calling yota Jim and having him cut out an A-B pillar and roof section, there aren't any 1st gens in the U pull salvage yards.
...
Still need to find the back glass and the topper rear glass. There aren't any of those "$50" fiberglass toppers popping up in CL, there were a good half dozen back when I didn't need one. And nobody snagged up the cheapy glass for me I mentioned before that the guy wouldn't take a PayPal for.
..
I'm shooting for mid spring, but the lady is thinking it'll be out of the garage by mid winter and I just can't do epoxy work if it's below 60 something at night.
I did figure out the passenger slider goes alot farther forward than I thought after I got custom those exhaust flanges and stuff out from under it. =D
...
I've got the front seats cleaned up pretty well and two, no three, small containers of misc nuts, bolts, screws and other important things that need saved and sorted.
Tomorrow will be another go at the mid cabin area which should go pretty quickly.
Once I get to the area behind the rear seats there will be more glass, LOTS more glass, those rear windows aren't laminated.
I'm really tempted but trying to avoid calling yota Jim and having him cut out an A-B pillar and roof section, there aren't any 1st gens in the U pull salvage yards.
...
Still need to find the back glass and the topper rear glass. There aren't any of those "$50" fiberglass toppers popping up in CL, there were a good half dozen back when I didn't need one. And nobody snagged up the cheapy glass for me I mentioned before that the guy wouldn't take a PayPal for.
..
I'm shooting for mid spring, but the lady is thinking it'll be out of the garage by mid winter and I just can't do epoxy work if it's below 60 something at night.
Jan 20, 2020 | 10:45 PM
#276
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Joined: Jan 2020
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Resistor
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ebuild-235775/
Oreily's lists the same PCV for 85 different vehicles, everything from the 4cyl to 8cyl. It does NOT seal with pressure applied from the intake port side. I know because I have two now. Toyota parts sites list 3 part numbers. Will have to have one ordered with my VIN I guess.
TPS reinstalled and adjusted, I marked it when I removed it, then could't get the IDL contact and took it off swearing I bench tested it and I did checked fine it just went several degrees past where I had it marked. I did clean the contacts and the wiper areas.
Was going to test the VAFM and remembered I'm not sure if it's altered internally, been swaped for the larger plug n play one, or (I'm thinking this one) It's the larger VAFM with the 22r-te circuit board. Top cover plate and the connector are held with a clear silicone.
I need pictures measurements or casting markings to ID between the three or four variations the VAFM might be.
Idle air hose replaced with a loop of straight tube. fresh air intake blew off and barfed crankcase goo, replaced with a 22r-e section trimmed to fit.
AC vacuum switch has a broken wire at or inside the boot to the plug. AC doesn't have a belt or tensioner currently so no rush.
Topped off the PS fluid. It's probably going to need a new hose or clamp and cleaning. Seems like maybe the tensioner isn't lined up perfectly. A new bearing wouldn't hurt, but I'll check the tension and the mounting nut they like to back off and go missing.
Got three new crush fittings for the oil pressure gauge, and a 1/8 plug in case I can't get any of them to seal. I really hate pressure fittings we don't get along at all.
I'd like to be able to go over the shift points and verify everything still happens when it should but I have to manage the throttle to avoid that code 14 overboost
Cleaned up all the misc drips, leaks and splashes. I have the loose oil gauge, a puddle between the oil cooler plate and filter relocation plate, and a drip at the turbo oil drain wear it's not a hose barb but a threaded taper with a hose over it.
Still going to need the rear end work the noise is still there prominently at high speed engine braking. Hard to judge but it's maybe quieter at highway speeds now than it was at 50 before.
Got another 20 or so miles, 3 heat cycles. full tank of 91, and a clean windshield
Oreily's lists the same PCV for 85 different vehicles, everything from the 4cyl to 8cyl. It does NOT seal with pressure applied from the intake port side. I know because I have two now. Toyota parts sites list 3 part numbers. Will have to have one ordered with my VIN I guess.
TPS reinstalled and adjusted, I marked it when I removed it, then could't get the IDL contact and took it off swearing I bench tested it and I did checked fine it just went several degrees past where I had it marked. I did clean the contacts and the wiper areas.
Was going to test the VAFM and remembered I'm not sure if it's altered internally, been swaped for the larger plug n play one, or (I'm thinking this one) It's the larger VAFM with the 22r-te circuit board. Top cover plate and the connector are held with a clear silicone.
I need pictures measurements or casting markings to ID between the three or four variations the VAFM might be.
Idle air hose replaced with a loop of straight tube. fresh air intake blew off and barfed crankcase goo, replaced with a 22r-e section trimmed to fit.
AC vacuum switch has a broken wire at or inside the boot to the plug. AC doesn't have a belt or tensioner currently so no rush.
Topped off the PS fluid. It's probably going to need a new hose or clamp and cleaning. Seems like maybe the tensioner isn't lined up perfectly. A new bearing wouldn't hurt, but I'll check the tension and the mounting nut they like to back off and go missing.
Got three new crush fittings for the oil pressure gauge, and a 1/8 plug in case I can't get any of them to seal. I really hate pressure fittings we don't get along at all.
I'd like to be able to go over the shift points and verify everything still happens when it should but I have to manage the throttle to avoid that code 14 overboost
Cleaned up all the misc drips, leaks and splashes. I have the loose oil gauge, a puddle between the oil cooler plate and filter relocation plate, and a drip at the turbo oil drain wear it's not a hose barb but a threaded taper with a hose over it.
Still going to need the rear end work the noise is still there prominently at high speed engine braking. Hard to judge but it's maybe quieter at highway speeds now than it was at 50 before.
Got another 20 or so miles, 3 heat cycles. full tank of 91, and a clean windshield
Mar 3, 2021 | 10:00 AM
#279
holy crap, co! im sorry i missed all the action, but im glad youre okay! I know you havent been around in a while, but are there any updates for us?
side note, i was just reading through your thread again and noticed my pictures of my VFAM. those numbers are NOT correct for my rig. i should have -35040 not 35020. So, now begins my hunt for the correct AFM. wonder what the actual differences are between them.
side note, i was just reading through your thread again and noticed my pictures of my VFAM. those numbers are NOT correct for my rig. i should have -35040 not 35020. So, now begins my hunt for the correct AFM. wonder what the actual differences are between them.
