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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Help!! Dropping new motor, oil pan sitting on diff!!

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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 10:40 AM
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Help!! Dropping new motor, oil pan sitting on diff!!

I purchased a 1991 Toyota pickup 4x4 5 speed 22re. There was no motor in the truck. I received all parts to build the motor, but didn't have time to. I purchased a 1994 Toyota pickup 22re 2wd automatic. I removed the motor, and scrapped the rest of the truck. Here's my problem, I have tightened the bottom 2 bolts from bell housing to rear of engine. I have hand tightened the top 2. I cannot tighten them. I cannot go from trans side because trans is sitting too high. Come to find out, my oil pan is sitting on the front diff and will not allow the engine to drop down into place. Hmm no wonder I couldn't get the motor mounts to line up. This is my first time pulling and installing an engine and was hoping it would go a lot smoother than this. If anyone can give me some advice or suggestions that would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance
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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 10:50 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
2wd and 4wd use really different oil pans.

You need to take the engine back out and find a 4x4 oil pan

Need to also have the oil pick up tube as well as they are different

You should most likely have the correct oil pan in the engine parts from when you bought the truck

Compare then and see how different they are .

Last edited by wyoming9; Aug 23, 2016 at 10:51 AM.
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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 11:07 AM
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The one on left is just like the one on the motor already

Thanks, should have said this, but I also have spare 22r parts that came with the truck. So I have 2 oil pans I'm looking at. One is just like what is already on the motor, and one is skinner in the middle and longer at the end where the drain plug is. You make me believe it's the other one, but the Pan is hitting at the end where the other is longer at. Any suggestions? Maybe a pic will help. Thanks
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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 11:09 AM
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It's the one on the right for sure

Welcome to yotatech!

Good job with your engine swap! Don't worry bout it not going as smoothly as you hoped I always run into little speed bumps too!

Lots of great treads here loaded with info and ideas to fix and modify these amazing trucks! Build up section too so you can show off your progress!

Plus any issues you run into we are are here to help!

Oh yeah unwritten rule "pics or it didn't happen" lol

Last edited by 4RunnerFreak12; Aug 23, 2016 at 11:10 AM.
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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 11:15 AM
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From: vancouver
Here's mine



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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 12:16 PM
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From: Frederick, MD
The skinny pan on the right is def a 4x4 pan.

Are you sure you have the motor and trans fully seated? You may have to lift up on the output of the trans to force the front down.

I always had to wrestle the block and trans together when I would pull only the motor or trans as opposed to pulling them together as a unit.

Once everything is aligned you'll get a satisfying clunk and you'll be able to hand thread the bolts all the way in. Then a turn or two with a ratchet and you're buttoned up.
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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 06:33 PM
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From: Philly PA
Originally Posted by Dgavin9
Here's my problem, I have tightened the bottom 2 bolts from bell housing to rear of engine. I have hand tightened the top 2. I cannot tighten them. I cannot go from trans side because trans is sitting too high. Come to find out, my oil pan is sitting on the front diff and will not allow the engine to drop down into place. Hmm no wonder I couldn't get the motor mounts to line up.
When I have yanked the trans - I find that I have to
-- remove the fan, and the clutch at the front of the motor
-- place cardboard against the radiator to prevent bent fins
-- tip the motor "back" angled down towards the rear
-- get the Trans in
-- MAKE SURE ITS SEATED
-- bolt the bell housing to the motor
-- DO NOT USE THE BOLTS TO "PULL THE TRANS IN" - the trans should be seated FLUSH before the bolts even go in the holes
-- after bolting the trans up - tip the trans up
-- then install the cross member to hold the trans in place
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 03:38 PM
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Okay so with college just starting I haven't had much time to work on the Toyota. But I swapped out the oil pans and it sits perfect. Lined up amazing with trans and engine mounts. now I have started to reassemble the engine. On the slave cylinder/bracket, I have a problem. I have the 2 front bolts to the bracket bolted in and I also have the slave cylinder on. But the 2 back bolts on the bracket are not right. They are the bolts that came off my donor Toyota but there is nothing to tread into and the bolts are not long enough to put a nut on the back. So I thought I'd skip it and keep going. Went to hook up the PS, so I started looking in my bucket of bolts for the right ones from the bracket to the block and I don't have any to fit!! I tried taking some bolts off the truck to see what would fit it, still no luck. If y'all have any comments or suggestions to my problems, I'm all hears. Thanks guys
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 03:43 PM
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From: Philly PA
its too late now, but back in the day I would put bolts in a ziplock "snack" back (they are like 1/2 height quart bags) and then WRITE on the bag with a sharpie.
In some cases I drew a diagram if there were different lengths of bolts.

I stacked them in a line in the order they came off the truck.
It made re-assembly a snap...
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 04:18 PM
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That's what I did with the hoses, bolts, parts, ect I took off the donor Toyota. I bought my Toyota with the motor in parts ready for rebuild and was told all the bolts were there. Too bad they actually aren't
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 05:03 PM
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The donor Toyota was not equipped with PS so I couldn't use the bolts from it. And my Toyota doesn't have the bolts for the slave cylinder. I used the bolts from the donor Toyota for the front 2 in the bracket. But they back 2 doesn't thread in through the bell housing and aren't long enough to put a nut on the back
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