picture time

started the day off with this. the engine is still propped up and everything on the underside (diff and steering) is still disconnected



it was fairly easy to seal the oil pan this way. i sat in the engine bay to be able to reach it all



injectors came back yesterday



ooh... shiny





this is what i love: data. equalized injectors, for the win



alternator bracket in. oh, and the engine is dropped. note: when trying to remove the engine, un-do the two smaller (14mm) bolts on each engine mount; not the big 17mm nut. much easier











the belt fits nicely. plenty of room for adjustment







air conditioning on



garage at the end of the day. messy, yes, but all so i'm ready to go for tomorrow and tuesday



aaaand the engine as it sits now. no bolts in the head yet, it's just resting there. my bolts come in tomorrow, so i can finally get this back together

the yellow is starting to grow on me... no, literally. my hands had yellow paint all over them



lots more to come...

 

very nice. like the yellow.

scary how much this all looks like mine....minus the yellow.

good luck...keep going.

 

i'll get a bunch more done once i get those daggone head bolts... then it's all downhill. no, really, the garage has a steep driveway up to it

 

those injectors look amazing how much did that cost you to have them cleaned?

 

Looks good man. also had forgotten you had the GM alternator as well. I got to get me one of those. They are slightly more water resistant the the Toyota ones. But that means I need to pick up two alternators though as I always like to keep a backup.

 

$20 cleaned and tested, per injector. $10 shipping. there's also an expedited service for $25 extra, but they do a fast job with all of them, anyway.
thanks.

for the alternator, all the connections are exactly the same (except the plug, but there's the adapter for that). if you already have a decent toyota alt, that can be your back-up, as it will bolt right in. and i think the bracket will work with it, too. the bottom mount is the same, and the top arm might work

 

head bolts are here! now to torque that head down!

 

Nice Work, Ian, .... keep on widat!

Hey, so, by lifting the engine, having Bj spacers, and dropping the diff, ...you were able to slap the pan in with the pick up tube already attached? Genious... Me likey! Please give me more details? I'm about to re-do mine soon, when I put in the new 3rds and locker.

Have a good'n, Ian, ...l8r

 

head is torqued to 61. cam bolt torqued, and engine should fire up tomorrow

i'll get through the p/s pump, dizzy, and a li'l bit more today, and tomorrow finish the intake. sweet

 

thanks mark! (btw: i don't have bj spacers, just cranked t-bars. i'd like some, though...)

ok, oil pan procedure, assuming timing cover is off and the front wheels are off the ground

1- raise the engine.
un-bolt the 2 bolts at the base of each motor mount (not the big one in the middle). jack the engine up using a bottle jack on stacks of wood. the jack fits nicely if you jack the engine by the main crank shaft. raise the engine until you can fit a 2x4 block of wood under the engine mounts. slowly let out the jack, and the engine should now be resting on the blocks of wood. remove the jack, you'll be sitting there

2- install the timing cover.

3- drop diff.
there are 3 bolt-nut combos: two vertical, near the ends of the "axle" (?), and one up front on the cross-member. the front one is easy, the back two are not. all are 17mm, and working over your head the whole time for the back two. they don't just come off freely once "broke" which is a huge pain. once all the bolts are loose, let the jack out. the diff will sit diagonally

4- remove the steering cross-brace.
put the key in and turn to "ign" so the wheels turn freely. the next bit is a bit tricky. remove the pass side tie-rod from the cross brace (requires a pitman arm puller or similar). then do the same for the cross-brace on the pass side. it's difficult to get the puller to fit, so try a few methods. i only did this, since it was all i needed

5- prep the gasket surfaces.
both the ban and block/timing cover. razor blade and acetone for the block, steel wire wheel for the pan.

6- move the pan in from the rear.
it won't fit from the front. maneuver it in carefully and rest it under the block. now sit up in the engine bay, with your rtv in-hand

7- apply ultra black.
...and a lot of it. start from the back of the pan, so you don't get it all over you. try to go down the "grooves" on the lip, and on the inside of bolt holes

8- raise the pan into place.
have the stud nuts ready. slowly move the pan to the block, guiding it onto the two studs. once it's pressed up, put the nuts on to hold it while you get the rest of the bolts. don't worry if there's rtv in the way of the holes. it'll displace as you screw the bolt in

9- re-assemble 1,3, &4.
and wash the rtv out of your hair. that's it!

10- this is step ten.
it felt odd having 9 steps

if you want, i can make a video later, but that's about it

 

worked a little too fast today. i need to take the pair valve off

i did get a bunch done, although not too many pictures taken. here's the evidence:

lower intake on



finally



everything torqued down





p/s pump on, and all belts





dizzy on





probably need to adjust that



and one of my junkyard-raid finds





that's it. i'm glad i have all the parts now, so i can finally finish up soon. tomorrow i'll be taking my time, but still getting a bunch done

 

Oh man I'm so excited for you really looks good. Ive been wondering why I wasn't getting many responses on my thread lol everybody is watching you. I can't wait to see how it runs VERY exciting stuff!

Almost done keep it up

 

Right on, Ian! I have one of those boots, .....just doesn't fit over my 8.5MM wires, lol... Oh well, I will find a use for it on another rig, or, ......HECK, maybe this one if I keep having issues! lol.

Just checkin in... l8r's

 

yep...you are right....looks like you are a tooth off

you



me

 

huh, i thought it was supposed to be straight up... guess not. thanks

 

just checked... you set the rotor to tdc, and it rotates 45 degrees ccw. the mark on the gear indicates tdc for the dizzy, not where it's supposed to me lined up on the drive gear (like i thought). thanks for catching that

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../5distribu.pdf

 

as long as you understood what you said. i'm a simple guy. no big words please.....hehehehe

 

in any case, you were right.

in later news: i forgot to put the water and egr pipes on the back of the head before bolting it down, and it's created a bit of a setback. i got it figured out now, but it's just one more thing. i still should be able to fire it up tonight or tomorrow

 

Awesome, can't wait

 

all right. those pipes are on. now i can move forward.

exhaust > upper intake > valve cover > emissions crap > radiator/shroud > intake/battery > fluids > fire it up!