when i put the 4.7 gearset in, left the shift interlock pin out and threw together a quick twin stick. that twinstick was so fugly, not to mention i couldnt figure out a way of sealing it up at the time so the "exposed" gears sprayed gear oil out the top and everywhere

so yesterday i decided to whip up a much nicer one and came up with this:

 

i like it nice job

 

Any installed pics? Looks very nice.

 

Is there a breather on there anywhere?

 

yes, i drilled a hole in the back and threaded it 1/8" NPT and screwed in a hose barb. i have a hose running up to meet with my front diff breather line.

 

Looks good..keep us posted on how it works.

 

is there anywhere that shows you how to make your own twinstick??

 

Yea, I was thinking that too. How do you make your own? I can see bending the rods for handles and welding it up, but how did you make the base? Or did you mod one you already have?

 

i made my base out of a peice of 1/8" steel plate for the bottom. the "box" is a peice of 2x2x1/4" wall sqare tube that is capped off. my design is kind of a rip off of marlin crawler's one but its pretty tough to pull off without a lathe.

if i were to do one again, i would copy the one that front range sells, its pretty simple to make if you think about it:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/productrevi...fror_ts003.JPG
the rubber boot they use to seal it up is a standard jeep CJ-2A shift boot that you can get on ebay for $3

 

[Ace Ventura Voice]Reeeheeeheeheeheeheeeaaaalyyyyyyy[/Ace Ventura Voice]

 

keep in mind as well that the twin sticks on the market today arent made for single t-case setups. my first twin stick had the sticks straight up from the t-case. i couldnt put shift knobs on them due to interference with the transmission shifter. thats the reasoning beind the funky bends in my new one

 

what are you going to do on the interior part as far as the boot?

any installed pics yet?

I might try this

 

right now its duct tape, but i have a twin stick boot on order from currie

 

I understand how yours works but you say try the FROR design. All I can find for pics are at a distance and I dont really understand how they work.

This guy just uses just one plate while FROR uses 4.

This design makes perfect sense to me.

Also, this same guy "mods" his fork shafts. Did he weld those rings(tube) to the fork shaft? Sorry for all the questions, I have never had the T-Case open before.



After looking close it seems he did this to separate the shifters and put thier contact with the forks from directly above. He has probably a ball and socket thing going on huh?

 

the front range is the simplest to duplicate because it has the simplest design. the two sticks pivot on the bolt.

the bolt is held in the 'block' which mounts on top of the plate that covers the hole. the rubber boot seals it up and is sandwitche between the top plate and the block.