Offroad/camping/utility-all in one trailer build
#101
I'm just spitballing but if whether you're using spacers, or a longer axle, or wheels with less backspacing isn't the distance from the outside of one tire to the outside of the other tire the same, with all the stresses, strains, and difficulties that come with it? I think it would be better to get spacers and then get the same tires as on your rig, then you've got good spares.
Tubbing it I think would look the best but storing gear and dealing with wheel wells sucks. I know you mentioned getting plywood. If you do that a lot it might be easier to have a wider trailer, but each decision has it's pro's and con's.
Tubbing it I think would look the best but storing gear and dealing with wheel wells sucks. I know you mentioned getting plywood. If you do that a lot it might be easier to have a wider trailer, but each decision has it's pro's and con's.
Today I went out and actually measured the backspacing on the wheels on both the 4 runner and the wheels on the trailer, they were both 4" not 3-1/2 like I thought. I through one of my 4runner wheels on the trailer to get an idea of how it will look. I'm liking the looks of the 35's on the trailer, oh before anyone asks, my 4 runner always sags in the rear, that's not from weight of the trailer tongue.
^^^I haven't dcided on the trailer tongue storage box location yet, I'm waiting until I get some jerry cans so I can see where I can fit everything.
I was looking at the trailer frame and I think it would be a lot of work to notch out the frame for wheel tubs, especially with the placement of my airbags. But I could cut out just the bedsides where the inside of my fender would be since they over hang the trailer frame by an inch, therefore gaining an inch of tire clearance, and I wouldn't really lose any cargo space, then I probably just run a small 1 or two inch wheel spacer to make up the difference. I'll try to get some pic up later to make more sense if what I'm talking about.
Thanks again guys for your interest in this long slow build, as always you thoughs and opinions are always welcome!
Last edited by rustED; 05-03-2014 at 09:17 AM.
#102
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Looking good! Sits perfectly flush with your runner, perfect height for the trails! I kinda like where your electrical box is sitting right now, but Jerry cans do take up odd space, maybe on the side in front of the tire? Sounds like you have a good plan either way.
#103
Thanks! The trailer was just sitting there, kinda still in mock up stage, I haven't finished the trailer tongue yet. Also since I'm replacing my rear suspension (which consists of stock springs ,Zuk mod, and 2" blocks) with AllPro's 6" suspension kit, the rear of the 4runner should hopefully sit a 1" higher, so I'm waiting till I get the suspension swapped out before getting a receiver hitch for the 4runner, might need a small drop hitch.
I agree, I like where the trailer storage box is sitting in the pic, I might go ahead and mount it, I like your idea on putting the jerry cans infront of the tire.
Last edited by rustED; 05-08-2014 at 12:31 PM.
#104
Ok, so I haven't made any progress on the trailer in quite awhile. Today I cleaned all my junk, tools and clutter that managed to find their way into the back of the trailer over the last few months. Awhile back I bought 2 more bushings for the link ends to make my last link for the suspension. I also bought some 1/4" rubber insulated clamps to mount my air lines to the trailer frame for the airbags. So tomorrow the plan is to remove my 4 runner top from the trailer where its been stored for the last few weeks, pull the sheet metal floor out of the trailer tub so I can Fab up some mounts for both the trailer frame and the body, and start building my last link.
^^^trailer makes it easy to take off the 4runner top by myself!
Do you guys think I need a bushing between the body/tub and the trailer frame? I was thinking of just putting some 1/4" thick rubber between the two mounts just so it's not directly metal to metal contact, I can get used conveyor belts at work and cut them to fit.
^^^trailer makes it easy to take off the 4runner top by myself!
Do you guys think I need a bushing between the body/tub and the trailer frame? I was thinking of just putting some 1/4" thick rubber between the two mounts just so it's not directly metal to metal contact, I can get used conveyor belts at work and cut them to fit.
Last edited by rustED; 07-16-2014 at 08:18 PM.
#106
Looking good as always. I recently built a pickup box trailer from an old ford ranger I had laying around. It's nowhere near as impressive as what ur building but it's only for hauling scrap metal. I spose I could throw a pickup camper in it if I came across one cheap enough.
#107
Looking good Ed. I bought a M1101 from GL about 6 wks ago and u should see it sitting beside my '91T4R. The wheels/tires on that thing are HUGE!! LOL..
Would u know what the final weight of ur trailer will roughly be? I know that u have a 302, I like ur " 5.0" badge btw on ur tailgate, so pulling it should not be an issuse.
Would u know what the final weight of ur trailer will roughly be? I know that u have a 302, I like ur " 5.0" badge btw on ur tailgate, so pulling it should not be an issuse.
#108
Looking good as always. I recently built a pickup box trailer from an old ford ranger I had laying around. It's nowhere near as impressive as what ur building but it's only for hauling scrap metal. I spose I could throw a pickup camper in it if I came across one cheap enough.
#109
Looking good Ed. I bought a M1101 from GL about 6 wks ago and u should see it sitting beside my '91T4R. The wheels/tires on that thing are HUGE!! LOL..
Would u know what the final weight of ur trailer will roughly be? I know that u have a 302, I like ur " 5.0" badge btw on ur tailgate, so pulling it should not be an issuse.
Would u know what the final weight of ur trailer will roughly be? I know that u have a 302, I like ur " 5.0" badge btw on ur tailgate, so pulling it should not be an issuse.
Looking at Sierra 4x4 trailers base model trailer, it weights in at 640lbs and is 11" narrower than mine, so I'd guesstimate that mine will weight in around 700lbs. Once I get it licensed I'll get it weighed and post it up on here.
#110
Figure I'd make me a check off list, maybe it will help keep me on track and motivated!
1.) ***DONE*** Build the last link for the suspension
2.) Build link mounts for the frame and axel
3.) Fab up some body mounts for the trailer body and the frame
4.) Weld on some tabs to screw the 1/4" rubber bushing clamps (that will hold the air lines) the tabs will allow me to attach the clamps to the trailer frame without drilling directly into the frame.
5.) Finish building the receiver/hitch
6.) Finish welding up the body seams
7.) clean up all the surface rust on the frame and paint it. Paint the body.
8.) Build some fenders, maybe some side steps
9.) Wiring harness for the lights
10.) LED taillights, side marker lights, license plate light, (dome light?)
11.) Build a rear bumper with D-rings
12.) Mount trailer tongue storage box, weld up holes, paint exterior, add latch/lock
13.) ???? I'll think of something and update it later...
1.) ***DONE*** Build the last link for the suspension
2.) Build link mounts for the frame and axel
3.) Fab up some body mounts for the trailer body and the frame
4.) Weld on some tabs to screw the 1/4" rubber bushing clamps (that will hold the air lines) the tabs will allow me to attach the clamps to the trailer frame without drilling directly into the frame.
5.) Finish building the receiver/hitch
6.) Finish welding up the body seams
7.) clean up all the surface rust on the frame and paint it. Paint the body.
8.) Build some fenders, maybe some side steps
9.) Wiring harness for the lights
10.) LED taillights, side marker lights, license plate light, (dome light?)
11.) Build a rear bumper with D-rings
12.) Mount trailer tongue storage box, weld up holes, paint exterior, add latch/lock
13.) ???? I'll think of something and update it later...
Last edited by rustED; 07-22-2014 at 11:58 PM.
#111
Thanks man. I am using a 120v Lincoln Power PAK 100HD wire feed welder. I want to eventually get a nicer 240v MIG welder when I can afford one.
I have all the receipts from last year, I just can't find where I put them since we moved, lol. But all the steel, brackets, tabs, bushings, and trailer axel that I bought last year, I think I had roughly $750 into it, then this year for all the 1" and 1-1/2" square tubing and nuts and bolts and misc, another $350, so right around $1100 total so far. For a base model Sierra 4x4 trailer without the tonneau cover they start at $4500, so I should be well below that price when it's all finished.
I have all the receipts from last year, I just can't find where I put them since we moved, lol. But all the steel, brackets, tabs, bushings, and trailer axel that I bought last year, I think I had roughly $750 into it, then this year for all the 1" and 1-1/2" square tubing and nuts and bolts and misc, another $350, so right around $1100 total so far. For a base model Sierra 4x4 trailer without the tonneau cover they start at $4500, so I should be well below that price when it's all finished.
#112
Is a 120V welder gives strong enough welds? I am in the process of getting a welder to weld my sliders and maybe build my bumper. They all max at 3/16 steel. (The 120V). I rather get a 120V because of the price and easy use. I came across your build. How is the trailer holding up. Are the welds cracked? Thanks in advance. Or should I just save and get a 240?
I have welded a lot of 1/4" thick steel with it, I just turn it up to the highest setting and weld slower. If I can, I will weld both sides of the piece. Also, the outlet you use makes a big difference, I try to use a dedicated outlet with nothing else on the circuit if possible, otherwise it trips the breaker pretty easily. And if you're using a long extension cord, you need to use a heavy duty one with bigger wire, otherwise you get too much voltage drop, and your welds won't get good penetration.
My trailer still isn't finished, and hasn't seen any use as of yet, but I'm pretty confident in its construction so far. I've built 2 flat beds using the same welder and they both held up really well, also the 4runner in my signature, I built the front spring hanger for my straight axel swap and I've been running it for 2 years with no signs of cracking.
I've owned my Lincoln for about 12 years and have put tons of wire through the thing without any problems with the machine. I still would like to get a bottle for it, all I have ever ran through it is flex core. I'd still like to get a 240V machine someday, and if you can afford one, the versatility is worth the extra money, but if money is the deciding factor, there is a lot you can do with a 120V.
Last edited by rustED; 08-06-2014 at 11:46 AM.
#113
I'm going to attempt to revive this thread from the dead, lol. My plan is to have this trailer trail ready by May 2015. I'm gearing up to order some parts, I'm going to order some tabs to weld to the frame to and some for the axel so I can mount my last link. I also need to get some wheel spacers, to make up for me changing the trailer width mid-way through this build. Just thought I'd ask if anyone has any wheel spacers they want to sell before I purchase some new ones. 2" spacers will work, 3" spacers would be even better!
Last edited by rustED; 12-23-2014 at 04:15 PM.
#114
#116
Hi Terry. I really need to finish this project, lol. I've been trying to talk my wife into letting me get a pickup for hauling stuff, but I think I have a better chance at finishing up the trailer, than getting a truck right now. I was thinking of buying some fenders from Sierra 4x4 Trailers to try to save time, plus I like the way they look, but have read some bad customer service reviews lately, and the website seems to be down, so I guess I'll be building my own!
Last edited by rustED; 12-24-2014 at 11:38 AM.
#119
Ha, ha...mine is a disassembled, and is being used for a work bench at the moment, lol. I need to clean off all the junk and clutter and start getting good to work on it!
On a side note, I found a brand new set of four 2" wheel spacers for $100 on CL yesterday, just trying to set up time to meet up and buy them! So I might have 2 extra spacers if anyone needs some, lol.
On a side note, I found a brand new set of four 2" wheel spacers for $100 on CL yesterday, just trying to set up time to meet up and buy them! So I might have 2 extra spacers if anyone needs some, lol.
Last edited by rustED; 12-25-2014 at 07:34 AM.