Yep, is that a problem?

Chris

 

Hey Chris...

We have twins. My 98 is the same color combo as your rig. What year is yours ?

 

It could very well become one. When welding onto a frame, you want to either make the ends like this: <> or cup them ( ) to spread the load and make it much harder to crack along the weld. A vertical straight line makes it much easier to crack, especially if the weld is poor.

The straight vertical is just weaker altogether, even if it is the best weld in the world. It may develop problems, it may not, you will just have to wheel it and see.

 

It's a 1997!

Chris

 

I hope not, but I'll sure I'll find out, because I wheel it like crazy.

Chris

 

for all the time and money(granted its not nearly what a SFA costs but its still an investment into your truck that for the most part would have to be reversed if u did SAS) into this project which is quite interesting i might add and will definitely be quite capable, just with the clearance alone will be a huge difference...but it seems like to me if you already have it set in your mind that u want to do a SAS someday anyways...for the sheer savings of time and money why dont you just do it...you'll outgrow that setup so fast with 35/36s and or break axles and want a SFA even sooner...just my opinion.
good luck...and can't wait to see some action shots soon.

 

Well, everything I'm doing now is actually not costing me much at all. I've had the 3/16" plate for over a year now, so material cost is $0 presently. Rattle Canned the new parts this past week for under $25, and the consumables from my welder probably cost less than $5-10. My gas tank is costing me $0, but the extra parts for tubing and electrical wire will probably run around $25. All the brackets and skid plate for the tank will be made out of the same 3/16" plate. The only thing that I've decided to get from someone else is the skidplate/crossmember from FROR, which is going to be a good chunk. Then, cutting out the crossmembers is very low cost.

Basically, everything that I'm donig right now is costing me less than $400. The tires of course are going to be the last thing I get, which I could use on either setup. The SAS will eventually come, but everything I'm doing now is the same stuff I'd do with the SAS too. Combined, my truck will be bada$$.

Plus, currently, without question, I haven't the highest rear breakover angle of any 3rd gen truck out there with the amount of lift that I have. Plus, I'll be gaining somewhere in the neighborhood of 3-5" of undercarriage clearance without adding the bigger tires. Hell, I may never go to bigger tires if I can make all the stuff I want to with the added clearance. We'll see!

Does that make better sense now?

Chris

 

so you plan on a 3 body lift on TOP of a solid axle swap? unless you are running like 2" lift springs on that then you are going to have one hell of a tall truck with a high center of gravity considering you raised your driveline also. just a thought...but till that day comes you'll be in good shape.

 

Yes! Height is one factor of our rigs that holds us up a lot. When I finally do a SAS years from now, not only will I have a flat underbelly, but I'll probably be 2-4" higher than I am now. I don't see a problem with it, because the stuff I run has big rocks that I would love to walk over instead of draggin till I can't go any further. I'm sure everyone's experienced that before, right?

Chris

 

the problem is rolling. i wheeled my ifs 4runner ALOT and then i got a solid axle truck with 5" lift and more than enough clearance with custom crossmembers, etc, but when you have solid axles, lockers, and 150:1 crawl ratio its not so much lack of traction, flex or clearance that becomes a problem like with an IFS but rather the obstactles/situations that these modifications can get you into and often it involves the truck being within 5 degrees of rolling...and more often than not its just the strength of human pushing alittle to keep the truck from rolling, thats all it takes...and man if it were me I would definitely never run a body lift that high in the places I've been here in AZ and Colorado, especially on top of a solid axle vehicle lift with leaves too...unless you enjoy getting your seat wet

 

I understand, but in reality running a body lift raises my COG less than if I were to raising the whole truck the equivalent amount using a suspension lift. But, I realize that what you're saying is that since I already have it and the apparent height of most SAS's is pretty high anyway, I might be too high, right?

Chris

 

You could always follow in Steves shoes and do a spring under when you do a sas.
That way you wont have to lower the body lift and the rig will stay at the same basic height.

 

True, or I might do a coilover setup? We'll see, but it's going to be a few years before I even attempt it.

Chris

 

""I understand, but in reality running a body lift raises my COG less than if I were to raising the whole truck the equivalent amount using a suspension lift. But, I realize that what you're saying is that since I already have it and the apparent height of most SAS's is pretty high anyway, I might be too high, right?""

yes a body lift does have a lower cog because it solely raises the body and not the other components, you are right, HOWEVER you have raised your ENTIRE drivetrain, so your center of gravity has been raised also.
All in all, if it were me I would have just started gathering the parts for the SAS over a year or so and saved up alittle and just done the swap instead of now you will have some dilemmas when you go to do it..but who knows you may come up with another creative scheme. and yes you are already probably higher than many 4" solid axle trucks given you are running the same size tire, etc.

good luck.

 

No worries! It's a fun process either way we look at it, and we'll see what happens down the road. I really do appreciate your insight, your comments, and ideas. It helps me realize some things I've never thought of. Thanks again,

Chris

 

chris, you could always get some front and rear FZJ axles to swap on. that way you could use the OEM coil springs and stock length shocks. You'd get lift cause your runner is lighter. you'd also have f/r factory e-lockers. it would be some work, but it could be done...

 

Those front/rear locking FZJ axles go for about $2000 a pair used. Plus a regear.

 

And I think the rear is offset...

And they are not all locked...

Ans they are not easy to get a matched pair of...

I am still puzzled by the best departure angle of a 3rd Gen based on your current tires and lift. WTF?

 

are you sure about the rear? hmmmm, maybe so. ahhh, and the front is on the wrong side... forgot about that. i know that they're not all locked, but all will accept an e-locker.

 

Not sure about the rear, perhaps thinking about the wrong old conversation.

All the fronts will not accept an e-locker directly, you need the same motor cut out as when you add one to the rear.