I've got a new cheaper plan!
Jan 29, 2005 | 05:01 AM
#121
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Originally Posted by Trailtoy1993
Dude, seriously ought to go for the SAS if you plan to wheel. I was always upset by the fact that my '82 stock would go alot more places than my '93 with 3" BL and 2" suspension on 33's. Then I did the SAS and OMG I could go over obstacles in 2wd that I previously could not do in 4wd. Really, it is worth the time and effort and if you do everything yourself it doesn't cost much I think I have about $8-900 in my SAS.
Chris
Jan 29, 2005 | 05:02 AM
#122
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Originally Posted by Trailtoy1993
Here are a couple more. I'll see what else I can drag up. Most are on another PC and my network isn't right now.... 
These are actually old pics the shocks were limiting, and there is more travel in the back end with new rear 64" chev springs, and new bump stops.
These are actually old pics the shocks were limiting, and there is more travel in the back end with new rear 64" chev springs, and new bump stops.Chris
Jan 29, 2005 | 04:06 PM
#123
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From: Wheelin' Washington
The shock is actually on the front side of the axle on the drivers side, I think you are seeing the tailpipe 
I have since redone the rear shock mounts, both shocks on back side of axle angled in. As for the price of my SAS Gears and master kit from Randy's R&P was $470 or so front springs were $40 ea. and I did ALL the fab work, x-over steering arm from sky manufacturing with install kit $124 and everything came from junkyard. I traded a bunch of welding on a jeep frame for the axle. It might be closer to $1000 I didn't keep receipts of the effort but not much more, I really did it for not much money at all. Oh yeah, the front is still open diff 
, I know, I know, but, it shall soon recieve a truetrac! 
I have since redone the rear shock mounts, both shocks on back side of axle angled in. As for the price of my SAS Gears and master kit from Randy's R&P was $470 or so front springs were $40 ea. and I did ALL the fab work, x-over steering arm from sky manufacturing with install kit $124 and everything came from junkyard. I traded a bunch of welding on a jeep frame for the axle. It might be closer to $1000 I didn't keep receipts of the effort but not much more, I really did it for not much money at all. Oh yeah, the front is still open diff , I know, I know, but, it shall soon recieve a truetrac!
Last edited by Trailtoy1993; Jan 29, 2005 at 04:08 PM.
Jan 29, 2005 | 05:23 PM
#124
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From: wilmington nc
Man, I like that, For not a whole lot of cash you have a very capeable rig (even without the locker). just with the added flex you are definately going the right way IMHO. I may go that route in the future too. But, right now I have to hone my driving skills and find the limits of the IFS. Great job BTW
Jan 29, 2005 | 05:40 PM
#125
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Originally Posted by Trailtoy1993
The shock is actually on the front side of the axle on the drivers side, I think you are seeing the tailpipe I have since redone the rear shock mounts, both shocks on back side of axle angled in. As for the price of my SAS Gears and master kit from Randy's R&P was $470 or so front springs were $40 ea. and I did ALL the fab work, x-over steering arm from sky manufacturing with install kit $124 and everything came from junkyard. I traded a bunch of welding on a jeep frame for the axle. It might be closer to $1000 I didn't keep receipts of the effort but not much more, I really did it for not much money at all. Oh yeah, the front is still open diff , I know, I know, but, it shall soon recieve a truetrac!
I have since redone the rear shock mounts, both shocks on back side of axle angled in. As for the price of my SAS Gears and master kit from Randy's R&P was $470 or so front springs were $40 ea. and I did ALL the fab work, x-over steering arm from sky manufacturing with install kit $124 and everything came from junkyard. I traded a bunch of welding on a jeep frame for the axle. It might be closer to $1000 I didn't keep receipts of the effort but not much more, I really did it for not much money at all. Oh yeah, the front is still open diff , I know, I know, but, it shall soon recieve a truetrac! Chris
Jan 30, 2005 | 01:03 PM
#126
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From: Wheelin' Washington
Yeah, the selectable locker (ARB or OX) would be nice but I just don't quite have that much expendable income right now. And when I did the project it was all on a shoestring already. But, the thing straight rocks now as it is and a truetrac should do even better. I was at Elbe Hils ORV last weekend (bad place for an extended cab long wheelbase rig!) and a XJ jeep that was with us had a locker in rear with a truetrac up front and was just as capable as the locked rigs out there and definately more capable than my open stuff!
Jan 30, 2005 | 01:20 PM
#128
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Originally Posted by Trailtoy1993
Really, it is worth the time and effort and if you do everything yourself it doesn't cost much I think I have about $8-900 in my SAS.
Originally Posted by Trailtoy1993
The shock is actually on the front side of the axle on the drivers side, I think you are seeing the tailpipe I have since redone the rear shock mounts, both shocks on back side of axle angled in. As for the price of my SAS Gears and master kit from Randy's R&P was $470 or so front springs were $40 ea. and I did ALL the fab work, x-over steering arm from sky manufacturing with install kit $124 and everything came from junkyard. I traded a bunch of welding on a jeep frame for the axle. It might be closer to $1000 I didn't keep receipts of the effort but not much more, I really did it for not much money at all. Oh yeah, the front is still open diff , I know, I know, but, it shall soon recieve a truetrac!
I have since redone the rear shock mounts, both shocks on back side of axle angled in. As for the price of my SAS Gears and master kit from Randy's R&P was $470 or so front springs were $40 ea. and I did ALL the fab work, x-over steering arm from sky manufacturing with install kit $124 and everything came from junkyard. I traded a bunch of welding on a jeep frame for the axle. It might be closer to $1000 I didn't keep receipts of the effort but not much more, I really did it for not much money at all. Oh yeah, the front is still open diff , I know, I know, but, it shall soon recieve a truetrac! But to keep the cost realistic, you need to add Labor to the totals, since you did trade for parts. It gives many the impression that they can do the whole thing for under $1000 total. Then you have to remember his rig is a 3rd gen 4Runner, there is much more that has to be done in the process, including changing out the steering and oil pan.
Jan 31, 2005 | 02:46 PM
#130
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From: Houston, TX
Steve, Maybe you should have posted a new thread with this quote from Stegall and make it a Poll with two options, "Agree" or "Disagree." 
Originally Posted by sschaefer3
This will be my last post on this and a change for me on these BBS's.
Jeff is an outstanding driver, seeing all 4 spin fully locked up on dry Arizona rock is truly an amazine site to see. He has one heck of a powerful motor and it shows.
Now for the change in policy. I am really going to try to stay out of other people plans/ideas. If you/they e-mail me, you'll get a canned "I don't know" responce just like you would get from All-Pro or Daystar or Sway-A-Way, if they even respond at all. I want to concentrate on my product development and that is really all I have time for these days with the family, production, my projects and my advanced welding class. Ask Andy, when you assume the vendor roll you get tons of e-mails all asking the same thing you posted over and over again. I even had one guy calling me on the phone asking a ton of questions about his Tundra coil lift. I don't even have anything to do with that, and several calls a day over 3 days later, I guess I helped him figure it out. It's just time for me to step back.
This change is clear since a little boy in South Carolina seems to find is necessary to tell me how big of a jerk I am. What is it with South Carolina? Clayton, 44Runner and now this guy? I guess I'll never move there.
I PM'd him back refering to this post and yep, that's it. He just called me more names, but did confirm this was it.
Chris, I don't think it will be strong enough, but go knock yourself out! Give it a shot, I might be wrong.
Who really knows until you actually try it.
Now I'm off to write my canned responce.
Jeff is an outstanding driver, seeing all 4 spin fully locked up on dry Arizona rock is truly an amazine site to see. He has one heck of a powerful motor and it shows.
Now for the change in policy. I am really going to try to stay out of other people plans/ideas. If you/they e-mail me, you'll get a canned "I don't know" responce just like you would get from All-Pro or Daystar or Sway-A-Way, if they even respond at all. I want to concentrate on my product development and that is really all I have time for these days with the family, production, my projects and my advanced welding class. Ask Andy, when you assume the vendor roll you get tons of e-mails all asking the same thing you posted over and over again. I even had one guy calling me on the phone asking a ton of questions about his Tundra coil lift. I don't even have anything to do with that, and several calls a day over 3 days later, I guess I helped him figure it out. It's just time for me to step back.
This change is clear since a little boy in South Carolina seems to find is necessary to tell me how big of a jerk I am. What is it with South Carolina? Clayton, 44Runner and now this guy? I guess I'll never move there.
I PM'd him back refering to this post and yep, that's it. He just called me more names, but did confirm this was it.
Chris, I don't think it will be strong enough, but go knock yourself out! Give it a shot, I might be wrong.
Who really knows until you actually try it.
Now I'm off to write my canned responce.
Jan 31, 2005 | 03:38 PM
#132
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From: Fort Collins, CO
Labor and consumable costs are now part of mod quotes?
I thought the whole reason someone would say "I have X tied up in parts" is to illustrate the now labor cost.
Steve is going to hang a solid axle. Apparently IFS and two lockers did not take him all the places he wanted to go.
Some go wherever they want with IFS and one locker. I would personally be disappointed at where that took me.
I thought the whole reason someone would say "I have X tied up in parts" is to illustrate the now labor cost.
Steve is going to hang a solid axle. Apparently IFS and two lockers did not take him all the places he wanted to go.
Some go wherever they want with IFS and one locker. I would personally be disappointed at where that took me.
. 
Feb 6, 2005 | 12:35 PM
#136
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Revised/Angled Slider Pics!!
Hey guys,
Today I decided to tackle the relocation of my sliders, which were now 2" lower than the body due to the new 3" body lift. So, after reviewing my options, I decided to cut the bottom and sides of each tube, and angling it up. It appears that I gained at least 3-4"(haven't measured yet) of clearance over where they were before. Perfect! So, here's some pics of what I'm talking about:
Here's what it looked like after the 3" body lift:
Here's when I used the Hi-lift jack to start bending it upward towards the body. I had to cut some of the plastic and metal on the rear doors, and cut the plastic on the front fender flare too:
And, here's the finished product:
I've got a place at Caryville, that I've been dragging both sliders, and I'm hoping by angling them up like I have them now, I'll be able to do that obstacle without dragging.
The next two items I'm working on is the cutting and lifting of the rear part of my frame to relocate my rear bumper. Then, once FROR has the prototype finished, I'll be test fitting that very soon too.
Chris
Today I decided to tackle the relocation of my sliders, which were now 2" lower than the body due to the new 3" body lift. So, after reviewing my options, I decided to cut the bottom and sides of each tube, and angling it up. It appears that I gained at least 3-4"(haven't measured yet) of clearance over where they were before. Perfect! So, here's some pics of what I'm talking about:
Here's what it looked like after the 3" body lift:
Here's when I used the Hi-lift jack to start bending it upward towards the body. I had to cut some of the plastic and metal on the rear doors, and cut the plastic on the front fender flare too:
And, here's the finished product:
I've got a place at Caryville, that I've been dragging both sliders, and I'm hoping by angling them up like I have them now, I'll be able to do that obstacle without dragging.
The next two items I'm working on is the cutting and lifting of the rear part of my frame to relocate my rear bumper. Then, once FROR has the prototype finished, I'll be test fitting that very soon too.
Chris
Feb 6, 2005 | 06:38 PM
#138
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Originally Posted by dragr1
Great idea on the sliders Chris! I always dreaded redoing the sliders if I ever go to a bodylift, but that is a much simpler option. Looks good.
Chris
Feb 6, 2005 | 06:48 PM
#139
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by ravencr
Hey guys,
Today I decided to tackle the relocation of my sliders, which were now 2" lower than the body due to the new 3" body lift. So, after reviewing my options, I decided to cut the bottom and sides of each tube, and angling it up. It appears that I gained at least 3-4"(haven't measured yet) of clearance over where they were before. Perfect! So, here's some pics of what I'm talking about:
Here's what it looked like after the 3" body lift:
Chris
Today I decided to tackle the relocation of my sliders, which were now 2" lower than the body due to the new 3" body lift. So, after reviewing my options, I decided to cut the bottom and sides of each tube, and angling it up. It appears that I gained at least 3-4"(haven't measured yet) of clearance over where they were before. Perfect! So, here's some pics of what I'm talking about:
Here's what it looked like after the 3" body lift:
Chris
Feb 6, 2005 | 06:51 PM
#140
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Originally Posted by keisur
Chris, did you check the wire harnesses going from the access hole under the rear drivers side seat for the fuel pump and stuff? I just looked at mine yesterday and they are pretty tight, and I only have a 2" BL. just wondering since if you did something with that I'd like to see what you did.
Chris
