So I've got a roller fairlead now, but I think a Hawse will allow for slightly better approach due to how far my bumper sticks out.

What are the main differences between these two fairleads?

 

I don't care for roller fairleads. When it's time to get my winch I'll be getting the synth line and a hawse fairlead. Just be sure that if you're still using wire rope not to use the wrong metal....I think it's aluminum that is used for hawse fairleads that will be using snyth rope, and steel for wire rope.

 

Some serious misconceptions here. The only thing the Hawse buys you is clearance.

Any friction you can take out of a haul system the less ware and tare on the equipment and more power you can put to the load. Rolling friction is much less then sliding

Metal to poly will create ware and friction. If you create enough friction you can and will melt your synthetic line. Remember the heat is being stored up in the fairlead and when you stop you are concentrating all that stored up heat on the same spot on the line.

Now granted you aren't going to generate the fpm that a climber or technical rescue system will create (person falling on a rope) but you will create much more friction rubbing then rolling - simple physics. The more friction the quicker you ware out the line.

Wire (steel) rope on a steel Hawse will still ware out and create burs and snags in your cable. Wire on aluminum gets you more burs or galling and the added bonus of dissimilar metal corrosion in the cable (how many of you actually clean off your cable - be honest).

 

But aren't you not supposed to use rollers with snyth. line? Because the line is easily pinched?

 

My Warn 9.0RC came with synthetic line and came with a hawse fairlead.

 

I've run many a synth line at about every angle you can run off the front and back of rigs through rollers and not once "pinched" a line. I've heard the term but I've never seen any situation that could be considered "pinching" a synthetic line if the rollers are actually rolling. You do have to maintain and occasionally replace rollers though I'm sure few do.

I think that is someones sales pitch myself.

I've run many ropes, line and cables across many pieces of hardware and there are instances where you want the friction to control the speed of the load but your gear wares out much faster. I have a break rack we use in training classes to show students what dirt in your line does to the solid aluminum rungs cut almost in half in the nice smooth diameter of a 1/2 inch line, the cuts were done with one long fall, and there eyes are as big as saucers every time. Fortunately the only load was gear.

If you choose a Hawse make sure you know how to inspect your line every time you coil it back in. (edit) you should inspect you line regardless what fairlead you have.)

Don't let anyone step on the line - it drives dirt and rock into the core of the line and the dirt and rocks will cut through the line and usually when its under load.

Don't leave the line exposed to the sun and elements the UV treatment doesn't last forever.

You will need to replace you line every so often. They don't last forever. We replace all synthetic lines after 6 years, 3 shock loads, or sooner if an inspection shows damage to the core.

The point is there are pluses and minuses to all combinations of wire, poly, Hawse and roller. All I can do is give my opinion and the benefit of my training. It's up to you to decide how much you want to spend.

The argument about switching to a Hawse to get a couple inches just doesn't set right with me. There isn't any tech move that 2 inches is going to keep you from doing.

I've seen a number of winches sold with Hawse, no offense but that doesn't mean anything other then they are trying to sell you on an idea.

Y'all have brains - get the information and make your own educated choice.

 

Still bugging me so I did some experimentation.

The only way I can see being able to pinch the poly line in a roller is at almost a 90 degree angle up or down to the plane of the fairlead. How you are going to rig a pull at such a radical angle is beyond me and the only reason it happens even at that great of an angle is because at 90 degrees the vertical rollers can't roll.

At any rate I'm sticking with my rollers. As I said before, I'm more interested in function then fashion and I don't want to have to replace the line any more then I have to.

 

I'm talking with a steel line.

 

Go synthetic, your fingers will thank you.

I have heard the myth before too that a roller is not good with synthetic line.
Exactly that, a myth.

 

I don't have the bucks to go synthetic right now, lol.

 

How much are you thinking that it cost ?




Fred

 

Some great garbage here.

Inspect the line all the time, regardless of what line or what fairlead.

The problem is when people switch to synthetic on an old fairlead, steel usually has made rough spots. Synthetic gets eaten.

Run whatever.

 

Strange? I have yet to experience any wear problems with aluminum fairleads and have used my winch extensively, not just on the trail, but at work on a regular basis. I personally wouldn't run a steel line, mainly to save the 30 + pound hanging off the front of my rig, you can feel the difference.

The way I drive, a roller lead would get destroyed quickly, rendering my winch useless. Where I go a 1/4" makes a huge difference and many times I've had my Hawse fairlead pressed hard against the rocks, if it were a roller type, it would have been torn apart long ago. Also there is no maintenance, no rust, no worries, besides most wheelers rarely use their winch, so why have all that additional weight.......


I have to agree with Flygtenstein, "Some great garbage here."

 

i would disagree with that...... are you wheeling wide open spaces? 1/4 inch can make the difference sometimes

 

a lot of my wheeling is in tight areas here in FL. narrow creekbeds/ditches, and when I nose down into 'em, the roller usually hangs me up and gets covered in crap