he said he used POR-15. They carry it in auto paint shops.

 

Your perseverance is crazy.
Congrats on retirement!

 

I’m finally getting ready to do some
more work to the T100.

This first year of retirement has been really packed full of stuff to do that has taken me away from the stuff I ENJOY doing.

For the most part, the truck is the same as it was a year ago. I think the only thing to happen this past year was a full tranny flush, filter, and new solenoids.
It hits (R) pretty hard, but now it seems to be doing really well.

I snapped a speedo cable (again), but this time it was because I fished it up to the back of the gauge in FRONT of everything and the bend was too sharp. It snapped about 4” behind the cluster. Lesson learned. On that note, there was discussion about the “trans speed sensor” code that it threw up after that happened.
A LOT of people told me that because the gauge is mechanical that it has NOTHING to do with a code getting throw. That proved, to my favor, to be false. The fact that swapping out a PHYSICAL mechanical part turned the light off, tells me what I suspected all along. The gauge must send a speed signal, via the gauge cluster back to the ecu, that compares that speed reading with the one from the sensor on the tranny and if they’re way off, it throws a code.

There is no other explanation for a check engine light to turn off after putting in a new speedo cable and nothing else. I didn’t disconnect the battery, or clear anything.

Anyway...... Back to button up some
items.

 

I had it in, but not bolted down due to having to move, etc.

So, to resume the build on the truck, I just need to finish getting the interior back together and the central (literally) part of that is to permanently mount the console so I can wire in all the goodies and prep power and grounds for the audio system items that need to go in before the remainder of the interior plastics.

The Tundra console fits perfectly with the gap created by the Tacoma seats, but obviously the mounting holes are quite different.

Also, the Tundra console needs a “bracket” to lift the front about 1.5” so that it sits level.

I made a sketch, turned that sketch into a foam board model, and measured everything 10 times.

I took my model down to a local shop that has a waterjet, and had them cut it out of 1/4” thick , 316 series stainless steel. Yes, 1/4 stainless is absolute overkill, but it was left over from a previous job so it was free. Lol.

I call this little invention the “Space Invader” for obvious reasons that it 1) LOOKS like a space invader and 2) It compensates the space under the console to ensure a PERFECT fit.






This allows me to use the factory 4 holes in the floor for the factory console and the original bolts, but has the offset, wider, and longer spacing for the Tundra console.

I have this part saved in a .step file so I could make as many of these in the future as I would need.

P.S. Yes, I have a thing for hexagons.

 

I’ll do my best to continue to post photos etc., in this thread as I continue the build.

Also, I’m starting to seriously think about swapping in some DANA 60’s front and rear. Who knows?

 

Admin, please remove posts 263 through 270.

 

sure if you stop reporting every post

 

I don’t think it’s possible to be more condescending than this.

I make one request, in years, and this is the response....

 

I honestly considered moving this thread off this site because of the ridiculous behavior of the admin, but I don’t really feel like taking the time to re-write everything.

Meanwhile, I picked up yet another T100 parts truck because it was the right color and the bed on it was a 9/10.

Then I decided to just use it to make a trailer to save the T100 from some abuse.

So, as a side note and rabbit hole, it went like this:

 

In order to have enough frame rail, it requires cutting well under the driver seat.

This should allow for enough to notch, bend, and form a tongue:





On the left is a Tacoma frame.
on the right, you can see where I cut the T100 off in comparison.

 

Another one bites the dust.

 

The rest of it was cleaning up the frame to get rid of nonsense like the spare tire hanger, excess tabs from brake lines, gas tank brackets, etc.

The same treatment was given to the rear axle housing to shave it as clean as needed.

Then measure 12 times and cut once.
I cut notches in the frame rails that gave me the front angle I wanted.

*note, only 3 sides of the rail
were cut, the outside surface of the rail is simply bent in. This should provide some additional integrity, and make it look a little better from the side.

 

So in order to get the ride height to match the other T100, some changes will have to be made....

1. 2WD trucks have the axle OVER the springs. So I ordered leaf spring perches from Trail Gear so I could weld perches to the TOP of the axle. Basically, a simple “flip kit”.

2. 2WD springs won’t work if mounted on top of the axle, plus in order for the height to match, I grabbed a set of 4WD springs from a junk yard for $50.

3. I could not find cheap, OR GREASABLE shackles for a T100 anywhere, so I just ordered shackles from RockAuto.

4. Every nut, bolt, and washer that I could swap out, got swapped out with 316 Stainless steel. For the Shackles and the spring pivots, as well as the third member, I had to order them from a company online because your average hardware store isn’t going to have a M14 1.25 selection of nuts and bolts in SS. Lol.

5. Instead of using square tubing for the receiver, I ordered receiver tubing from Curt. Why? Because it’s .25 wall, and it’s FORGED, so I can have a longer tongue without worries of beinding the receiver tubing.

6. In order to ensure ride height, I notched the frame rails where they come together in the front for the receiver tube. This keeps the height centered on the frame rail instead of welding it to the top or bottom and having to compensate with an adjustable hitch ALL the time. It also provides more surface area to weld.

7. I measured the tongue length I wanted, then welded in a 2x4 cross bar for rigidity and a base for the tongue to also weld to.

8. Then the whole thing was sanded, cleaned, and coated with 2 coats of POR15. I can’t say enough good things about POR15.

 

I figured it had to match, so I grabbed some more runner wheels from the shed, and mocked it up.

Painted some of the oddball items red as an accent color, and started bolting it together:

 

I plan on using the full functionality of the stock tail lights on the trailer, so I made sure to not damage the factory harness.

Time to throw the bed up and take a look.

 

I forgot to mention that I bought the truck box BEFORE I started, and used it to calculate where I was going to notch and bend the frame in for the tongue.

That is held in by some “square” U-bolts to the frame, then cut flush inside the box. I have a rubber bed mat inside the box cut to fit, so you can’t even see the bolts when you open it.

 

To match the truck, it gets the same tires, wheels, as well as 2” spacers.

 

It looks high.
Scratching my head.
How is that possible?

oh......wait.....

The shackles have not been compressed yet, so it’ll be a couple inches high until I pancake it a couple
times and the shackles lay back.

regardless...... Ignore the dirt, it’s spring and we have had rain mixed with pollen this week.

Now, I’m closing in on a decision of what type of hitch to use for it.

 

I’ll get some “glamour shots” later on, but for now, I just need them mocked up so I can make the custom trailer harness (to correct length) to make it all work as intended.

 

I got tunnel vision when converting the 2WD frame to a 4WD setup.

I somehow completely overlooked the fact that 2WD frames have rubber bump stops on the frame and 4WD trucks have steel bump brackets on the frame.

lol....

So I’ll have to fab up some brackets, grind off the POR15 in those spots, and weld bump stop brackets.

....IDIOT!

Anyway.......

Don’t hate on this, but.....

I just found an ad on FB for a brand neW (NOS) OG rear bumper STILL IN THE BOX!

ROAD TRIP 2.5 hours away!

I’ll post photos when I get it home!