Thanks again Nate! I got the brackets today.

They should really help speed up the process!

 

So I think ive decided on going with the EMF joints. Rebuildable and actually have a higher axial load rating than a uniball. PLUS they are greasable as well.

 

Can you give me a link on these?

Nice T-100.

The Blazeland kit is pretty fun eh. I'm happy with mine. It really helped me get so much farther and in more trouble. This is why it's just a bit broken.

 

http://www.emfrodends.com/default.asp?m=0

I have to build an adaptor and do some Fab work for the top. I'm going with total chaos lower uniball conversion to make things easy

 

Thanks! Ya the kit is solid, works great!

 

I think Howe Racing may be another option. I like the GM (4) bolt flange design. I could modify the Blazeland UCA Extension Bracket to accept this bolt pattern. However the stock toyota BJ has an angled base incorporated in its design while the GM does not. The Howe GM BJ has 32 degree angle while toyota is 23 degree. The GM flat flange may mean the UCA E.B. bottom plate may need to have a bend so the angle range is correct. Also the spindle will need to be reamed to get the proper fit.

Here is the Howe link http://www.howeracing.com/c-560-howe...ll-joints.aspx

 

Zach, I know breaking your upper BJ on the trail and being in that situation really stinks. However Toyota and the aftermarket has made millions of these BJs and the design is solid and the failure rate is likely within acceptable numbers. In your case if you replaced them with new high quality it may never happen again.

The first time something breaks it could be a fluke. Maybe it took a rouge impact of some sort. Maybe it was a defective part. If it breaks a second time be very suspicious.

Consider running limit straps like I mentioned before! That way the upper BJ is not subjected to loads trying to pull the ball from the socket.

 

Well at this point its for peace of mind. I may never have another problem with oem ball joints and limit straps but I don't want to have to worry about it. If that happened in another spot the results could have been catastrophic.

 

Damage Inspection!

I finally got my truck into the back yard to get started on it.

So far it seems like The BlazeLand kit held up just fine, I think I tweaked the tapered hole in the LCA a little because the replacement joint wont sit all the way in.

The tie Rod is bent for sure. Probably both the inner and out. I think the Sleeve is ok.

When spinning the tire I am getting some resistance, It goes straight but will stop before it gets all the way around when I jack it up and give it a whirl.
Maybe the Rotor got dented.... Maybe this is my chance to upgrade?... All about the $ and priorities...

Oh minor update... I got the underside of my Hood sprayed with LineX a while ago... Did quiet it down a bit.


You can see how the Rotor got Slammed into the LCA here.


Ripped the brake Line out of the Tab.. No big deal.


Tie rod or something is bent. Dont think its the center link...


You can see how everything got pulled back and contacted. Also some dirt and cant freakin get out of the frame there... Something else I can do I guess.




My alignment held... LOL


Drive side for comparison




Passenger side which broke.

 

Full droop. Passenger side




Driver side

 

Just another photo. If anyone sees anything im missing let me know.... Im going to dig into it tomorrow, Take off the coilovers, Cycle everything a little. Start getting it ready for the lift kit and at the same time begin The uniball conversion... Take measurements etc.

 

Z, on the bent portion of the steering, it's been my experience that those inner tie rods are the weak link. I've bent two drivers sides and one passenger side, and I don think I push my truck near as hard. The big difference is that I'm on ball joint spacers and your not.

 

Ya im considering going with all Heims at some point.

 

I bent my center link a while back.

 

All things I still need to look at. Just havnt torn it down like I planned yet.. waiting for parts.

Im surprised you bent the center link. How did you do that?

 

Was going slow up hill and as I was coming over and back down fairly slow I nailed a huge tree stump that stopped me in my tracks and I noticed my steering wheel was upside down in order to go straight. Lucky I was able to do an eye ball alignment and made it home. I was able to throw it on alignment manchine and even my toe. I have a replacement link. Just haven't done it lol

 

Hey Zach, I have wanted to share my progress with the Upper Ball Joint discussion. I've been in contact with Howe Racing the past couple of weeks. One of their best selling BJs is modeled off the 1963-71 Chevy truck. It has some similar features as the 1986-95 Toyota Truck. Moog makes a BJ for either application so that is a good starting point for a comparison. GM style is on the right Toyota on the left. (Note, the GM style shown is actually a Moog not the Howe Racing, but they are interchangeable)







It would be easy to modify the Blazeland UCA Extension Bracket to accept the GM (4) bolt flange. To adapt the Toyota spindle to fit the GM taper is next to impossible because the GM taper diameter is smaller than the spindle hole. This means a new ball stud needs to be built. It can be done but a minimum quantity is required and I am not committed to that at this stage. What am I going to do with 50 ball studs!

As far as the angle the BJs allow for droop they are almost even. For Up travel the GM is much greater. If the UCA Extension Bracket has an angle change then the over all range for both up and down travel can be increased.

As it stands Howe Racing is willing to build a direct fit Upper BJ for the Toyota but it requires a minimum quantity. They did an awesome upgrade version for the GM (4) bolt and I think the same could be done for the Toyota. Take a look at the Howe Racing website and see the features they offer. Higher quality, stronger ball stud, Billet ball cups, greater range, rebuildable, and so on. I think if enough of us get together we could make it happen.

As for me, I am not super motivated to front that kind of money for something I am not sure would sell. I am only aware of one failure from trail use, and that is yours! That failure may be a result of a coil over conversion, but that is just speculation on my part. I've run a coil over conversion for years and it has not happened to me. And if it it did fail because of coil over conversion the solution is to add limit straps. I think the peace of mind for a stronger BJ would be really nice. I think think the extra angle range for more travel would be my main motivation.

Hope your having some good luck with your BJ build research. Here is a photo of the limit strap from the Mega Travel. It would be easy to add this to your ride.

 

Haha Nate the way you did your limit strap is exactly what I am planning on doing!

I believe part of the reason my BJ failed is because it was maxing out. I think the Chinese joint I was using has less compression travel and it was maxing out + not having the limit strap made it fail.

I will find out for sure when I take apart the other side and look at what the BJ is doing when I cycle it. The hole for the stud is round, I believe it is supposed to be oval.

I like the Howe joints, they have a similar design to what I want. The machined cup and rebuildable plus greaseable.

I want to go with the EMF joint so I dont have to worry about the taper. I will just drill everything out to a 3/4 inch hole.

However EMF has not been good with getting back to me so maybe Howe offers a stud with no taper. One of us should call and see.

50 is too much... There is no way that money could be pooled up.. and I dont have the cash to do much right now anyway.

 

I just ordered some new rotors.. Mine got cracked.. Damn that was a lot of force to do that.

 

Oh and is the Howe a machined steel housing? Any idea what material they use for the studs?

EDIT, Never mind! steel housing, steel cap, coated ball stud, all they need is a toyota one

one more thing I like about the EMF is that they use very high strength material for everything.

But if the Howe has a 3/4 inch stud with no taper that may the easiest way to go for me... Maybe just order one without the holes drilled and a 3/4 inch stud... then DONE