1996 t100 4x4 work in progress
#121
Think its unsafe?...Due to the massive twisting force put on it from that upper ball joint failing while I was on the gas in 4 Low, that spindle was free to go and it got slammed forward really hard. its kinda twisted,, it makes nervous


So I will have to get my hands on another LCA before the hammers maybe?.... I was planning on taking a trailer pulled by another truck but I just found out another family member is going to use it for a last minute trip...


So I will have to get my hands on another LCA before the hammers maybe?.... I was planning on taking a trailer pulled by another truck but I just found out another family member is going to use it for a last minute trip...
Last edited by Zpd426; Jan 27, 2014 at 08:49 PM.
#122
Hmmmm? Unsafe? I do see the twist on the LCA BJ Drop and the tapered hole does look a little out of round. I also see the rear bump stop bracket looks a little off? Could just be the camera angle. You might want to ream out the taper. As for the twist in the BJ drop I'm not sure what to do. I could get you another LCA, but probably not with the rivoted wheel stop pads. I don't see many LCAs with that feature.
#123
Damn I didn't even see that with the bump stop. I'll have to check it out. I ordered my limit straps. Should be here Wed. Wish I had the cash for the hydro bumps so I wouldn't have to worry about bending up those stock ones..
#125
I got your text last night when I got home from the gym. It was late and I wanted to check my pile of cores, but not in the dark. I checked this morning, your in luck I do have a set of cores with the riveted wheel stops to match yours. I can send you the RH LCA early next week. Send me those Superlift Spindle spacers and that spare set of LCA cores and we'll call it even.
#128
This is at full droop, factory bumps.....So I have been maxing out my Ball joints... My compression bump stops are bent... but still... May be because of the joint being Chinese... I really want to open up a toyota OEM joint to compare... which i WILL do when I figure out the upper uniball conversion...
Last edited by Zpd426; Feb 1, 2014 at 03:13 AM.
#132
The stock Ball joint has around 24-27 degrees of movement.
The total chaos uniball (or any uniball) had about 32-34 degrees.
Its hard to tell in the picture
The total chaos uniball (or any uniball) had about 32-34 degrees.
Its hard to tell in the picture
Last edited by Zpd426; Feb 2, 2014 at 01:25 AM.
#134
Drilled out my LCAs today which was actually very easy. We used a Bridgeport (Manual mill) basically used it like a drill press while one of us held the Control arm steady and the other operated the machine. Because of the tapered hole the drill self locates making a straight hole no problem. And there is not very much material that needs to be cut through anyway. Everything went smooth.
If I get my rotors swapped tomorrow then I should be driving by the end of the day!
If I get my rotors swapped tomorrow then I should be driving by the end of the day!
#135
So I havnt posted on here in a little while. The KOH trip went well besides Mark Rolling his rig.
The Uniballs did great, They are smoooth.
Right now the T100 is at the local shop. Still having the starting issue.
Replaced a bunch of sensors, its not getting spark, may be the ECU.... May get a one year newer ecu so i can run the supercharger one day.
The Uniballs did great, They are smoooth.
Right now the T100 is at the local shop. Still having the starting issue.
Replaced a bunch of sensors, its not getting spark, may be the ECU.... May get a one year newer ecu so i can run the supercharger one day.
#136
Oh and an update about the upper ball Joints OEM vs chinese,
I havnt opened up a toyota BJ but just by moving it around i can tell the opening for the stud is NOT round, it is oval. The toyota joint has more motion Y than X, which means there is more material holding that stud in place and preventing a pull out failure like I had.
The chinese joint being round is much easier to pop out.
BUT I still have not opened up the toyota joint to look at it.. I will as soon as i get the upper uniball finished and then ill post some pictures
I havnt opened up a toyota BJ but just by moving it around i can tell the opening for the stud is NOT round, it is oval. The toyota joint has more motion Y than X, which means there is more material holding that stud in place and preventing a pull out failure like I had.
The chinese joint being round is much easier to pop out.
BUT I still have not opened up the toyota joint to look at it.. I will as soon as i get the upper uniball finished and then ill post some pictures
#140
I was beginning to wonder what happened to you Z. Haven't seen you post in a little while.
Were you running a stock style idler arm before? Did you have a brace or brass bushings or anything? I'm sure the TC arm will be a great improvement one way or another.
Were you running a stock style idler arm before? Did you have a brace or brass bushings or anything? I'm sure the TC arm will be a great improvement one way or another.


