1996 t100 4x4 work in progress
#141
I had a completely stock idler arm. It lasted about 4 years actually.
Ya I've been busy. Just started working full time. New career in Physical Therapy. So now I've got to give that poor t100 some love. I've got a LIST of stuff that needs to be done.
Ya I've been busy. Just started working full time. New career in Physical Therapy. So now I've got to give that poor t100 some love. I've got a LIST of stuff that needs to be done.
#143
Sooo i got my hands on a supercharger, its a first gen painted black for some reason.... The guy i bought it from bought it from a guy who bought it from a dealership.. Neither of them ever used it. I have to figure out whats been done to it and if I should just get it rebuilt before i install it.
#144
Congrats on finding one!
One thing you'll want to consider is getting rid of that older style tensioner. Hit up trdparts4u and get one of the new dynamic tensioners. The older tensioner puts too much load on the bearings in the charger and alternator.
Also, don't bother with the older FMU unit. It doesn't help nearly enough, because it simply tries to open the factory fuel pressure regulator open further, but it just doesn't compensate enough.
One thing you'll want to consider is getting rid of that older style tensioner. Hit up trdparts4u and get one of the new dynamic tensioners. The older tensioner puts too much load on the bearings in the charger and alternator.
Also, don't bother with the older FMU unit. It doesn't help nearly enough, because it simply tries to open the factory fuel pressure regulator open further, but it just doesn't compensate enough.
Last edited by 250000_yota; Jun 15, 2014 at 02:14 PM.
#146
Congrats on finding one!
One thing you'll want to consider is getting rid of that older style tensioner. Hit up trdparts4u and get one of the new dynamic tensioners. The older tensioner puts too much load on the bearings in the charger and alternator.
Also, don't bother with the older FMU unit. It doesn't help nearly enough, because it simply tries to open the factory fuel pressure regulator open further, but it just doesn't compensate enough.
One thing you'll want to consider is getting rid of that older style tensioner. Hit up trdparts4u and get one of the new dynamic tensioners. The older tensioner puts too much load on the bearings in the charger and alternator.
Also, don't bother with the older FMU unit. It doesn't help nearly enough, because it simply tries to open the factory fuel pressure regulator open further, but it just doesn't compensate enough.
#148
I would do the 7th just based on how much better my truck runs. I ran for almost a year with a stock pulley and no fuel mods, and looking back now I realize how much Bette the truck runs. Also, if your going to run the smaller pulley in the picture, I would definitely say its a must have.
#149
Upper uniball's anyone?
#150
Cheaper to do myself but still nice.
THANKS!
#151
Yeah, glad to see they're back up and running, but that seems like a really steep price. I'm no experienced fabricator, but nothing used for those looks that expensive. If I was staying ifs and going LT, I'd say build me a pair to spread the cost a bit, though.
#152
Yeah, the price seems way too high! I am not a fan of drilling out a tapered hole to run a straight bolt. I also like having a flange with press fit studs rather than straight bolts.
A lot of folks running uniballs are finding the maintenance to be problematic. I was talking with Eric at Yotamasters last month and he is seeing a lot of business from customers with worn out uniballs. Some are needing rebuild on an annual basis. The labor to remove, rebuild, and reinstall combined with the parts can add up. Good for a shop doing the work, bad for the customer footing the bill. A sealed, greaseable ball joint can easily last 10 years with no maintenance.
I have been keeping my eye on ball joints on various rigs and see the Toyota uppers 1986-1995 to be quite beefy. I am visually comparing them to rigs like H1 Hummers, Ford Raptors, full size Chevy / GM, etc. The Toyota units seem to be the stoutest, most serviceable and well designed.
Besides Zack and his "made in China" units failing, I am not seeing problems. I see a lot of accident rigs with intact BJs in my hunt for LCA / UCA cores. If folks out there can contradict the Toyota design please do so.
The main drawback I can see with the factory design is limited angle range. Clearance work to make a Mega Travel BJ will increase angle range but taking away material may have negative effects too? I am very interested in seeing if Zack's EMF joint idea pans out.
A lot of folks running uniballs are finding the maintenance to be problematic. I was talking with Eric at Yotamasters last month and he is seeing a lot of business from customers with worn out uniballs. Some are needing rebuild on an annual basis. The labor to remove, rebuild, and reinstall combined with the parts can add up. Good for a shop doing the work, bad for the customer footing the bill. A sealed, greaseable ball joint can easily last 10 years with no maintenance.
I have been keeping my eye on ball joints on various rigs and see the Toyota uppers 1986-1995 to be quite beefy. I am visually comparing them to rigs like H1 Hummers, Ford Raptors, full size Chevy / GM, etc. The Toyota units seem to be the stoutest, most serviceable and well designed.
Besides Zack and his "made in China" units failing, I am not seeing problems. I see a lot of accident rigs with intact BJs in my hunt for LCA / UCA cores. If folks out there can contradict the Toyota design please do so.
The main drawback I can see with the factory design is limited angle range. Clearance work to make a Mega Travel BJ will increase angle range but taking away material may have negative effects too? I am very interested in seeing if Zack's EMF joint idea pans out.
Last edited by BlazeN8; Jun 21, 2014 at 08:41 PM.
#153
Uni-Ball dust covers!
A lot of people forget these are out there. Just do a search. Use the boot and grease it. Also as far as replacing them it is a matter of $30 each if you do your own work. These are the guys I use, cheap but last well. Had them on a jeep for 4 years (with the dust covers)!
http://ubmachine.com/monoballhousings.html
http://ubmachine.com/monoballhousings.html
#156
Those boots are nice. Here is what I'm going to use.... EMF just started producing them. They are press in and rebuildable.
http://www.emfrodends.com/category-s/1936.htm
http://www.emfrodends.com/category-s/1936.htm
#159
Found it!
WOW! I feel dumb. I just went out and measured one of my uniball sockets! Guess what it measure's 2.125" the height is wrong though got to look into that. Exciting stuff. Thanks for pointing the EMF's out.
#160
They should just press in to existing uniball sockets. Im hoping i can get them to fit in my total chaos lower uniball set up. For the upper i may just find out if i can order an upper uniball conversion plate with the holes drilled and nothing else. OR weld up my own.
Last edited by Zpd426; Jun 21, 2014 at 06:25 PM.


