sooo, just rounded over the 1K mile mark... still purrs... seems like she dont like cold weather tho... when its cold, gas mileage drops to 16-19 whereas when its warm, she stays between 18-22... hoping that its just the computer trying to relearn things...

she can really pull now... not down low... removing the balance shafts seems to have done nothing for the bottom end, but, MAN ALIVE, does it wake up the top end... 3 times now ive thrown a trouble code saying that the ECU cant keep up with the fuel consumption and i can feel the power cut out... usually happens right about 5200 RPM...

as for a the vibration, theres a little at idle... i can feel it in the steering wheel and see the passenger seat headrest vibrating... but honestly, its less than the valve slap i had before, so it doesnt bother me...

checked for leaks and there are none... did oil change 1 of 3 @ 600 miles... oil was darker than new oil, but not bad... gonna do new oil and filter @ 1500 miles...

 

Right on, bud.... Whatcha thinkin on the cold running and cut off? ...Possibly Coolant Temp Sensing related? Not sure on that motor, but hope you get it figured for the sake of the wallet(Go go juice consumption, lol)> GREAT to hear on no leaks, man! Congratz all around!

 

Can't figure out the cold issue, but I'm 90% sure the fuel cutoff is due to 1) the brown top injectors which only are good for 280-300cc a minute whereas if I had the pink tops they are good for 310-325cc per minute...

Either the injectors or the fuel pump just can't keep up...

 

Trucks looks good like that bumper

 

Seems sound logic, buddy. Got an eye on a viable P.O.Elimination?

 

P.O.Elimination?
Point Of Elimination?

no, and it seriously doesnt bother me... i mean, its not a race truck... i still rarely take it past 3500RPM... ill wait till i get a good deal on a turbo and intercooler before i start trying to track down the fuel cutoff issue... but thats a whole other can of worms...

and, thanks for the compliment, Court... i already have some plans to have it modified for some small PIAA fog lights, so check back in the future for that...

 

Will do, I'm bummed out I can't make it on this johns peak trail ride it sounds like it's goin to a lot of fun, sucks havin to work Sunday's. But we'll have to make another one eventually, maybe Squaw Arm or something

 

moved the antenna from the tool box mount it was on to the front bumper... from the antenna flexing, it broke the welds on the corner of the toolbox...

also thinking about pulling the trigger on THIS...

i know its not the BEST header out there, but i HONESTLY cant find any BAD reviews on it... unlike the pacesetters... and i know, you guys are gonna tell me to go with DT's or LCE headers, but i just cant justify spending that much dough for no more increase in power... my goal is to elimenate the stock manifold and the cracking problems associated with it...

opinions?

 

I read it, but didnt see anything about it being smog legal. maybe i read wrong. might wanna check into that for sure. but yeah, i know whatcha mean about the cost of the big name headers. id go with what youre comfy with. Ill come over and help with installation

 

If ya can't find negatives on these headers, why not, eh? Just curious how large the pipe diameter, etc. Hey, out of curiosity, what is the price for the 2.7 LCE Headers? I got a good kit from LCE for my 22re for 299$, ...just curious if it's MUCH more, lol. Sorry for not knowing the number of your engine ,...is it 2RZ? ...if so, 368$, ....hmmm..... What's shipping? I think LCE ships free to the lower 48. Not trying to talk ya around or into anything, buddy, ...just curious, lol. Best wishes with the choice!

Edit: I think the prices went up a LIL bit. Not much from last year. 20$? I'd have to find the receipt.

 

Yea, they are nearing $400... The OBX can be picked up for over $100 less... And the reason is that the LCE is carb approved and the OBX isn't... Honestly, it doesn't bother me that it isn't... It's still got an O2 bung in the SAME location as the LCE... OBX just didn't want to spend the extra money to have it CARB approved...

 

Hey Space, I hear ya... just for the heck of it, though.....maybe do what I did, and drive into the shop you get yer smog done at.... The guy at mine is great. I asked him, opened the hood and he basically looked over all the visual and said, "Yep, yer good to go", ......I was a lil worried due to the Cold air intake stories I've heard, etc., .... but he called it all ok. However, he put his glasses on to look at the header, said, "it's stamped, ok then", and didn't even look for the O2(He would in a full inspection, etc.). Just thought I'd share, since I had to follow the boss there with my truck, so we could run some errands while they tested it. Just wouldn't want you to have any hassles. I guess they're getting worse and worse here in the Peoples Republi....nevermind, I mean, in SUNNY CALIFORNIA hahaha.

 

lol... too funny, chef... you know, its not that big of a deal to swap it out every 2 years... as long as the cast iron manifold dont crack, im golden... besides, no smog laws in the area of WA i wanna move to... WIN!

 

Header should be arriving today...
Next up is autopal 200mm H4 conversion lights and 2 HID kits... A 6K for the headlights and a 3K for the procomp driving lights I have...

Then I get to figure out the the blinkers don't work... And, yes, the blinker fluid is full...

 

What about the switching valve for the blinking fluid?

 

Crap!!! Didn't even think of that!! Will check in the A.M.

 

this is starting to piss me off... one thing after another...

drivers door lock decided to jam... the cylinder turns a few degrees then stops... lock still can be operated from the inside... but until i get that fixed, ill be entering from the passenger side...

and today, going to work, my ignition decided to jam as well... you all are familiar with toyota ignitions where you have to push IN and turn the keu to get past the lock... well, mine you push IN until it stops then you pull OUT until it spins over...
you have no idea how frustrating this is to me...

so i get to either tear the locks apart to try to rebuild them or go to toyota and get a complete replacement set (doors, ignition, gas door) for 350-ish...

ugh! any insight or advice?

 

well.. call josh for a used set.. get vin cut STEEL keys from the dealer and rekey the newer locks to the vin matched key.

 

Was gonna say, ...there's a guy down here that does locks for our rigs, cyl's with keys, etc., and he even does 'SPECIAL' cyl's/keys, as they are SO FREAKIN EASY to break into, apparently! lol. I think he's a lot cheaper than 350$, especially if you're just having him get you a set with one key, ya know?

 

The problem is, Vitaly, the locking gas door can't be rekeyed...