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scuba's 1999 Tacoma Build-Up Thread

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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 10:18 PM
  #421  
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Originally Posted by space-junk
Wanna sell the skidrow?
Yes. I will want it gone. Though, I'm not sure what to charge for it..
Txt me and we can talk

Originally Posted by Birdbrain
A customer at work got one to throw under his 3rd gen 4runner (i guess it fits?) The thing is nasty BEEF. and weighs a bunch.
Yea a 3rd gen would basically be the same as mine. Speaking of weight, the UPS tracking info said 61#'s


Originally Posted by 2DoorRunner



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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #422  
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Gotta love being so close to such a big vendor. I literally got the crossmember 26 hours after I ordered it (mind you on the cheapest shipping option).

Initial impressions.. BEEF. This thing is huge and heavy 3/8" steel.
Pretty good attention to detail. The two small holes to the left of the rubber trans mount are for the exhaust pipe bracket. It took me a second of pondering to figure that out though. I had to reminisce back to my clutch job during December 09.
I got all of the hardware needed, but all of the main nuts and bolts (6 threw frame and 8 Xmember to frame mount) must be the wrong thread pitch or something. The nuts twist on very easily but then freeze before the bolt goes all the way through. None of them look stripped



Other then that it looks great. I can't wait to install it tomorrow and test it out Saturday



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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 01:52 PM
  #423  
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Originally Posted by scuba
I got all of the hardware needed, but all of the main nuts and bolts (6 threw frame and 8 Xmember to frame mount) must be the wrong thread pitch or something. The nuts twist on very easily but then freeze before the bolt goes all the way through. None of them look stripped
They're probably locknuts, should be good to go!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locknut
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 01:55 PM
  #424  
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Trailgear uses the same thing on their shackle bolts. The eliminate the need for lock washers, and can't be damaged by heat. Make sure you put some grease on them when you install them, or you will be cutting them back off when its time to change the clutch.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #425  
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Originally Posted by Atomic
They're probably locknuts, should be good to go!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locknut
No way. I know what a nylock lock nut is and looks like and these are not them.



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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:02 PM
  #426  
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They aren't nylocks you n00b

They are lock/jamb nuts. The end tapers slightly to jamb on when installed, so it won't come loose.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interfering_thread_nut

Last edited by DeathCougar; Mar 10, 2011 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:02 PM
  #427  
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar


Trailgear uses the same thing on their shackle bolts. The eliminate the need for lock washers, and can't be damaged by heat. Make sure you put some grease on them when you install them, or you will be cutting them back off when its time to change the clutch.
You really doubt my common sense, too?




Again, these are not locknuts.


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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:05 PM
  #428  
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Originally Posted by scuba
No way. I know what a nylock lock nut is and looks like and these are not them.
There isn't one type of locknut. It's not a nylon locknut, but probably a "distorted thread" locknut.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:05 PM
  #429  
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They may also be called Distorted thread locknuts, depending on the type of locknut

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distorted_thread_locknut
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:06 PM
  #430  
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Originally Posted by scuba
You really doubt my common sense, too?




Again, these are not locknuts.


Scuba, I swear to god....

Look at the impressions in the top of the nut. THEY ARE LOCK NUTS!! Don't believe me, call trail gear. You really think they messed up an ENTIRE order of nuts? REALLY?

You are doubting a mechanics knowledge of nuts and bolts?
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:10 PM
  #431  
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The threads seriously look different sizes. I emailed them, we'll see what they say.

Tell me why the nut strips (and gets hot) when I actually tighten it down past where it stops.

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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:10 PM
  #432  
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Look at the nuts in this picture:



Whaddya know, same style taper top lock nuts.

Besides all that, read the TG website:

The crossmember comes with grade 8 hardware and top locking nuts
I'll take your apology in twenties Kthx
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:12 PM
  #433  
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I retract my statements. Want to delete all this banter from my thread?

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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:12 PM
  #434  
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Originally Posted by scuba
The threads seriously look different sizes. I emailed them, we'll see what they say.

Tell me why the nut strips (and gets hot) when I actually tighten it down past where it stops.

Friction=Heat

In order to lock the nut, you have to have friction. Otherwise, it would just unbolt itself and that isn't much of a locking nut.

Its a ONE TIME ONLY use bolt in many cases. They don't want it coming off, which is why I said to use grease on the threads if you ever want it to come back off. Don't try and tighten the nuts down on the bolts until you are installing the crossmember on the truck.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:13 PM
  #435  
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Originally Posted by scuba
I retract my statements. Want to delete all this banter from my thread?

No way, I want to show everyone how I was right hehehe

Besides, it might actually help people installing the crossmember who run into the same questions. I questioned the shackle bolts first time I tightened them down for the very same reasons, until I did a little research.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:15 PM
  #436  
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
No way, I want to show everyone how I was right hehehe

Besides, it might actually help people installing the crossmember who run into the same questions. I questioned the shackle bolts first time I tightened them down for the very same reasons, until I did a little research.
Well.. screw these things. I'm going to go spend some more money on some lock washers and regular nuts.


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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:17 PM
  #437  
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I imagine there is a reason they put those in there in the first place....but to each their own.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 02:26 PM
  #438  
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looking good man, thing is beefy
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 03:17 PM
  #439  
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
I imagine there is a reason they put those in there in the first place....but to each their own.
I just don't want to have to buy new nuts and bolts after the next time I remove this thing. Besides. I need to bolt the crossmember and brackets together for mockup, these won't work for that.
Locktite and lockwashers > crap locknuts.


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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:58 PM
  #440  
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Crossmember went on today.
No real issues with the install. Everything went together pretty easily.

I bolted the brackets to the Xmember. Supported the trans, removed stock crossmember, and cut the stock crossmember brackets off (no going back now ). After that I mocked the Xmember up, tacked the brackets on and removed and painted it. While the paint was drying I fully welded the brackets to the frame.



Stock transmission brackets cut off. Had to remove the cat to get to it.



No good finished pictures. Got too dark. I will take a picture or two tomorrow when I "change" a CV.


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