Long Canyon


Hurrah Pass/ Chicken Corners






Lockhart Basin from Chicken Corners to Hamburger Rock campground

 

Needles District, Canyonlands

 

Black Bear Pass








Imogene

 

Silverton/ Engineer Pass






Marshall Pass


Salida


Hayden Pass

 

Wow. Awesome as always. Was this the first year with the new bikes?

That's cool you got to go by moab motorsports. I enjoy his youtube chanel a lot.

What was that crazy ant thing?

 

Year...5! Already? Time flew.

My husband watches it often, couldn't resist when he saw Trail Mater parked there.

We had to look that one up, he/she looked cool and scary and friendly all at the same time, maybe a couple of inches long.
A Jerusalem Cricket, aka Potato Bug. Not related to crickets.

 

AKA a "Child of the Earth". Ugly looking, but 'a good bug' they eat a lot of insects. Or so my Extension Agent told me.

Quite the spectrum on the (weather) Zones you traveled. I rate that trip "Very good to Excellent".

 

So long as he wasn't invading my personal space we could be friends.
It's always weird packing for wet heat, dry heat, hot rain, cold rain, snow, dry cold, and everything else. Could prolly cut our wearables number in half otherwise.

 

Time really does fly! Thanks for sharing the trip as always. I really need to plan a time to go bike and wheel in Moab

 

96 4Runner 324,757 miles

State inspection (safety and emissions) passed and plates renewed.

Finished changing the bearings and seals on the 4xInnovations tire swing-out. Contacted Adam at 4x because he's got kits and I also needed the nylon skid for the swing-out, as usual he made it a painless transaction and got it out quick. As I understand it the bearings are pretty standard stuff and can be had local. Easy enough job, carrying the weight of the swing-arm is the hardest part. I had to elongate a hole in the nylon skid to fit the holes in my swing-arm, not difficult. The newer ones must have a little different specs.
All smooth swinging and happy again. The top bearing would have been fine with a cleaning and re-greasing, the bottom one was frozen and unmoving.




1 1/8" socket for the bolt


One of the rear sway bar brackets got bent, got it bent back in shape enough to use, replaced with spare one from my...collection


And those brand new rubber sway bar link bushings felt a bit....ill...after our trip. Replaced with poly bushings. I had some extra link washers, so I added them for more support.

 

96 4Runner 324,757 miles

Need replacements for the 168 bulbs that are in the dash. Most are original, all are over 22 years old. They've gotten so dim I have trouble seeing the cluster even in the dark. I'm thinking a batch of new bulbs should do the trick. Was surprised they're 168, thought they'd be 194. Was thinking about replacing them with dimmable leds, but maybe I'll just keep it simple.


Also pulled the e-locker apart to clean it out and regrease. My repairs of both the magnets and the backing plate are still good. The brushes are not too worn. I carefully cleaned the carbon out of the crevices in the commutator.
The locker was lethargic on the second part of our trip. I'll have to check all the wiring as well, but I'm starting with checking and cleaning up the motor first. Really I should get in the habit of pulling it every once in awhile so it comes off if I need it to.
I sealed it with silicone last time, seems to have worked pretty well to keep most of the junk out.
And yes, I did not lose the tiny tiny balls on either end of the rotor shaft. Or whatever that thing's called!


Unlocked-

 

I wager you can find what looks like should be an o-ring to seal that assembly, rather than gooping it up with RTV. Even if you can't find an actual Toyota part sort of o-ring to go in there, I wager just an off-the-shelf one will do nicely. It's like the o-ring on the idle adjust screw...no Toyota part available, just get an off-the-shelf one. They're everywhere. Heck, if you have a decent o-ring kit from an auto parts, or hardware, store you may even have one on-site.
Also, may I suggest using the famous silicone dielectric grease inside it? Even if some liquid, especially, but just about any gunk, gets inside, it'll protect the contacts, and allow good connection to the wipers.

On a side note, Habanero was mentioned by Tiny Tim, I think it was, in one of his Toyota testing videos. You're famous now! Congrats
Pat☺

 

Affirmative on the grease, was gonna do dielectric up top and lithium below, but am open to suggestions such as yours since it makes sense. Husband actually said same. I know Toyota body grease 08887-02007 is a bit beyond my wallet. I'm not actually sure exactly what that stuff is...
EDIT: Toyota Body Grease # 08887-02007 is Molykote YM-102. That doesn't really help me much either, but now I know a little more than I did a few minutes ago.
I did look for and find an aftermarket e-locker o-ring kit, but at nearly $30 and all I want are the o-rings...agree with you. I may still go the silicone route if I can't find thick enough o-rings, the aluminum is awfully pitted at the meeting points, especially at the magnet housing. It wasn't hard to separate and did a pretty good job. Definitely I'll replace the o-ring on the gear shaft with an o-ring.

I've got another junkyard actuator, should tear into that one and recondition it for future possible needs.

Heh, Tim and I had conversations about that show while he was doing his research. He asked if he could do an interview but we were in the middle of one of our co/ut vacations. I'm not big on talking anyway so it worked out well.
I don't imagine there's much to be said about me, but I liked that he gave me a nod for my work.

 

Well, it's not specified as a "dielectric" grease, but it IS what Toyota used originally in there. I would guess from that that, even if it gets on the contacts, it'll allow proper operation. I would wager, though, that regular, average, everyday, silicone dielectric grease will do the job adequately, even without the lithium in it. The Lithium just keeps the shock loads on the plastic gears, like the motor suddenly starting to turn, to a minimum.

If you have any doubts, just find a cheap source for the Moly YM-102, like Grainger, or McMaster-Carr, and buy a small tube. It doesn't really take all THAT much, after all. I suspect the Toyota stuff, most of the cost is the name "Toyota" on it.

BTW, Grainger and McMaster-Carr might also be good sources for the o-ring you need. They have just about any size/shape you can possibly need.

Have fun, anyway!
Pat☺

 

Grainger...got one of those not too far away. Good thought!

 

Me: * waiting on my "Habanero Groupie" T-shirt to arrive.

 

 

96 4Runner 324,757 miles

Resealed the driver door seal with 3m weatherstrip adhesive. It's been falling off so I figured maybe it was time.
Removed and cleaned the exterior seal that sits over both left doors, and reinstalled. No old sealer was on it so I didn't put any on this time either.

My power steering pressure line is seeping. No longer available from Toyota, but there's one in Florida for over $400. I found one from Edelmann/Plews for a little over $100.
I am be keeping the oe line, if the aftermarket one doesn't cut it I'll have the rubber replaced on it.

 

I got lucky when I had to replace the pressure lines on my pickup. I had loaned it to my middle daughter when she as stationed at Camp Pendleton, California. Only a couple hours from Yuma, where we lived at the time. She learned to drive in the truck, and fell in love with it, and needed a vehicle, so what the heck. She got the base's hydraulic shop at the motor pool to make her brand new hoses. It helps to get stuff like that done if you're a tall, beautiful, blonde Marine.

Sorry, little stroll down memory lane...
Pat☺

 

Which part of the line is leaking - at a connector to the pump or in the middle of the line?