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I used the old bulb to get the right measurement, the bulb needs to illuminate the window but not be too long. The terminals have to go on a certain way, pay attention to that, there is an up, a down, a back and a front.
I used marker to make sure nothing slipped when I soldered. Can you see the wire goes through the leg of the terminal?
Like so (but with nicer soldering, of course!)
Compared old (bigger) to new (works)
Obviously the 2 wires shouldn't touch each other. The base is made in such a way that they are separated by a bridge of plastic.
Last edited by habanero; Jun 30, 2017 at 08:10 PM.
Carefully put the terminals into position as shown above and slide into the housing, remember to keep the wires separate from each other:
You can trim the extra wire whenever you feel like doing so.
There's a keeper on each side (screwdriver indicates), the terminals clip in.
This part I don't care about because I'm not using the green bulb cover. Still, the bulb is smaller and the cover fits over. The small space it's in should keep it in place. I'm not testing that, just for to be aware it could be an issue if you want to re-use.
Also, why haven't you cut those wires yet?
Heh. (wires)
Wires gone. Bulb done.
These may not be as expensive as they used to be so if you aren't into fiddling it may be worth checking out a price. I'm out 2 bucks for 2 bulbs and have 2 4Runners. If the bulbs last then cool. If not then it was a couple of bucks for a little rainy day fun.
Last edited by habanero; Jun 30, 2017 at 08:11 PM.
Dash, eaten by Tasmanian devil and barfed back out. Okay, really I removed some of the dash padding so the clinometer could be moved forwards a smidge. Better windshield clearance and hopefully better defrost access, there's a small section of windshield that was being blocked and not wanted to defog. Also changed the light color to red (2 #74 bulbs).
Hey Habanero, I just saw this post and remembered that I owed you a thank you. Following your posts on this thread, I got up the nerve to swap out my 2002 4runner front and rear ends with the low geared, diff lock set from my parts truck and got it all wired up perfectly on the first try. I couldn't have done it without your notes and probably wouldn't have even attempted if not for your thread.
Hey Habanero, I just saw this post and remembered that I owed you a thank you. Following your posts on this thread, I got up the nerve to swap out my 2002 4runner front and rear ends with the low geared, diff lock set from my parts truck and got it all wired up perfectly on the first try. I couldn't have done it without your notes and probably wouldn't have even attempted if not for your thread.
Thank you very much!
Charchee! That makes me so happy that you got something useful out of this! It's excellent that you were able to get it figured and got all that work done, it's a big task (and heavy, too!). Glad the Toyota community has been so willing to share, it's helped me immensely so I could learn and share too.
02 with a locker, only a missing-fingered handful of those around (that I know about).
Couldn't have done it without you. For what it's worth, I used a link off your thread to get a diagram of the factory ecu wiring and used it as opposed to the relay because I couldn't put my hands on a relay. They have closed all of the radio shacks around here. I installed a safety switch with a bright blue light in it to prevent accidental high speed actuation of the locker. Since an 02 doesn't have a diff lock indicator light in the cluster and I needed a ground wire to illuminate the blue light in the safety switch, I used the indicator ground wire for the switch ground. Now when I hit the diff lock switch, the blue light in my safety switch blinks until it is locked and stays bright blue while it is locked in.
I went back and looked to see on Post 2. You just went over the 7 year anniversary on your truck and you have done a ton of work to it. Late Congrats on your 7th year on your truck. I have been enjoying following your thread and liked that you have the information easy to find. Great job all the way around.
Terry, thanks for the congrats, never thought this thread would turn into much of anything when I started it. I've had the truck 12 years now, July 05. Time flies when you keep taking stuff apart.
Wow, thank you coopster. Considering how many really great builds there are that says a lot. It would be awesome to even get close to the detail, ingenuity and willingness to share that we see throughout the Yotatech community, and the differences in everyone's thought processes, build styles and goals- and their results too.
Buttoned back up and everything is working as it should.
This all started with a bad ground at the aftermarket gauges.
Since they were lit using the dash light circuit so they could be dimmed and the only ground for that can be the dimmer switch itself the dimmer switch got fried.
The fried dimmer/bad ground allowed the aux reverse light switch (on/off/more on) (Toyota fan switch) to feed power to the blower motor, which I noticed because it was on when it shouldn't have been.
I separated the bridge in the reverse light switch so I had on/off/on which solved the blower motor feedback problem.
That's when I notice the dimmer switch wasn't working and found the ground.
Got rid of the ground but still the switch was fried so found switches in Camrys and a single 4Runner at the junkyard. (both worked, I looked for knobs in the dashes that matched mine, and around the same years of all Toyotas)
Removed the aftermarket gauges from the dimmer circuit entirely, now they run through the start battery aux fuse block under the right rear seat, same with the voltmeter for the start battery. (I have a start and a house battery)
Changed the aftermarket gauge light color to red.
Put the aftermarket gauge lights on a switch so they will usually be dark unless I want to see them.
I liked the red so decided to change the key surround to red, too. I colored the surround so that it's always red, rather than clear, and removed the green bulb condom so it lights red.
I liked that so much I did the same for the lighter surround.
Except the bulb was out. So I replaced the lighter surround bulb and took the green condom off it, too.
Then there was the slight issue of the defrost being blocked in one spot by the clinometer.
So I tried to move the clinometer forward more but the dash padding was too tall to allow it.
The dash padding was removed from under the vinyl on the dash to make an indent for the clinometer to sit in. I used a hair dryer to warm the vinyl as it is very brittle and I needed to press it into an indent.
Got to thinking about the green clinometer lighting. That won't do so those 2 bulbs were colored red while I had that puppy out.
And....that's all I remember doing.
I got some really rotten pics, the red is deeper and my eyes don't pick up the brighter and dimmer reds the way my camera does.
Clinometer moved forward. We're talking 1/4", but the defrost does seem to be getting the whole window now. Warmer weather these past days makes it hard to judge, will have to wait for the colder stuff.
And with red lighting
The lighter and key surrounds in red. You don't have to make it so the color is visible, but I wanted it to be.
Most everything lit. The aftermarket gauges are 2 different companies and there is a disparity, but it's not as bad as the photo makes it look. One day maybe I'll find affordable volt and coolant temp gauges that look similar to the nicer psi gauge. It's not dimmable anymore, if I find it annoys me I'll try using one of the spare dimmer switches I have to make it dimmable.
And how I'd normally have it
I know, I know, green clock. When I put a filter in to change the color it makes the clock too hard to read when the lights aren't on.
Last edited by habanero; Jun 30, 2017 at 08:15 PM.
I had one stock in my 86 4runner I bought in 86. I started pricing them again...they are going for $300++ in the PNW...
don't need something that will freak out the missus on an incline that bad.. it is hard enough to get her out on a trail
still want one though
Who mentioned the darned clock? Tried a cut-out bit from a left-over red pill bottle I had (Target) but it went from green to orange. I want red. Maybe using a darker red. I do want to be able to see it during the day too, so I'll try plastic bits I have laying around but if the day thing is too dim I'll give up.
So far too dim AND I just today realized the cb lights are green too. I'm beginning to like green.
Last edited by habanero; Jan 25, 2017 at 06:09 PM.
Jan 16, 2017 | 04:40 PM
When I put a filter in to change the color it makes the clock too hard to read when the lights aren't on.
