Here it is guys. I Have a 92 Toyota Pick up truck with the old 4 cylinder 22r-e. I have asked everyone that i know about this and it has dumbfounded us all. The problem that I am having is, Well let me start by telling when it began. I was driving along then kurplunk it died. So I muscled the truck to the side of the road and gave the key a turn. the engine turned over and cranked then i let go of the key and kurplunk. So i tried it again turn the key it cranks let go kurplunk. When i turn the key to the forward position (the one before starting) I get all of my test warning lights. So it's not the switch in the column.

 

When you say "kurplunk", does it actually make the sound, or is that just your describing it dying immediately?

If its just dying, I might say your fuel supply is cut off (blocked fuel line, or bad pump), or something bad in your ignition (bad coil or distributor).

If it "kurplunk"s then you might have something more serious.

 

The word kurplunk was used as a term for dying immediately. Just like I shut the ignition off. It’s not making any noises (Thank God). Thanks for the reply. I never thought about the fuel system. :pat:

 

Hey threatcom,

How many miles????

I WILL GIVE YOU A situation for me........ I pulled into a papa johns. Went to start the truck and kerplunck nothing.

To make a long story short one of the valve guides (plastic) broke off and timing chain ran over it. It skipped a tooth and then I was 4 exhaust, and two intake valves in the hole....


I am not saying that is what your problem is..... Just a similar circumstance.


So the vehicle turns over, with no out of the ordinary noises? I guess not with your earlier post.

I would have to agree with other posters and say fuel delivery or coil or ignitor.

Try Picking up a code tester at an autoparts store. There may be a way of just jumpering the test module to where you do not need the tester. If you get a code I can look in my book and tell you what it says.

Check distributor cap and rotor button, easy things to do. If you have no fire direction, you can't run!

OH WAIT!!!! I bought a toy celica 22re car back in college for 150 bucks. sweet car. It would do the exact same thing. I sold the car to my father in law for what I bought it for. IT WAS THE FUSABLE LINK!!!! I believe it is up in the fuse panel under the hood. It had a loose conector. I actually to this day still have two ignitors for the 22re in the 1984 celica!! The kid that sold it to me had done everything to get the car running.... SOmething as simple as the fuable link............

I will check with him to find out more of the details...

Keep us posted.

Mike

Ps. My truck motors dont like you calling them old!:cry:

 

She has 187,5?? on her. Yeah it turns over with no ordinary noises. It even starts, but when I let the key go it dies just like I shut off the engine. No hesitation in starting or dying. When I turn over the engine and it cranks I can hit the gas a little and it idles up. I know that’s not good on the starter, but I had to make sure it was actually starting. So it's getting fire in the forward key position. The problem occurs when I let the key go.

I am leaning more on some computer problem or a problem somewhere in the fuel system. More towards the fuel system . the reason for that is I just tried to crank her after about a week in the driveway and now it will not even start. So I am thinking that at first it was just burning off some fuel that was still in the fuel line. Plus the problem happened when I was going up hill.

Ps: Sometimes older is better. Untill now all I had to replace was the starter and clutch, but thats expected at 187k. I sure thought the next problem would be my alternator.

 

Had a similar problem w/ my 85 xtra cab, 22RE mill. It turned out to be the ditributor. There is some type of electonic P.U. under the base of the distributor (where the cap attaches..... under the metal base the cap sits on) ANYWAY.... it went bad. Bought a dist. from a salvage yard, end of problem.
You can have it tested.

 

also check the connection to the air intake , i for got to hoo kit up when i did the head gasket on my old 87 4 funner. and was dumb founded till me and my buddy nocited it wasnt hooked up , duh , hooked it up and started right up. maybe one of the wires has correded and broke , or maybe the clip broke or something odd like that.

airrikk17

 

I would check to see if you are getting fuel. I would goto the autoparts store and pick up the fuel filter which is located under the EFI. I have two of these motors and have yet to replace them based on my big hands. Everyone says be prepared to donate a knuckle to Toyota..... :cry:

So you say that the charging system, battery and alternator are ok ????

I was driving home about 1 month ago and everything died. I knew right away that it was the alternator, because the battery was dead. Now that I think about it my lights were slightly dim for 2-3days before that. Technically you should be able to remove the positive terminal after the car is started and it should run. Some of the newer vehicles can be different though.

Basically I ran on the battery until I killed it. SO I jerked the advance auto alternator out and took it down and they bench tested it. The thing finally gave up the ghost after 8-9yrs and about 60-70k.

HOWEVER.... Since your car is turning over I would assume the battery is ok.

I would start out and make sure each system is performing. Key systems. Starting, charging, fuel delivery, fusable link, distributor, rotor button, rotor cap.

If you can see about maybe buying a code checker (30bucks) and checking to see if you have any codes.

Also do a google search on computer codes.

My code checker basically connects the test terminals to allow the check engine light to flash for specific problems.

Hopefully you can find out the problem!


Mike

 

Don't do this with newer cars, it can damage things.

Steve

 

I know this one. Its the ignition switch. If it starts and actually runs while your turning it over, but then return the key to the run position and it dies. Its the switch. A contact has broken off in the switch. Exact thing happened to my mustang so i just wired in a toggle switch. So i just flip the switch and start the vehicle normally. The toggle will also act as a poor mans security system.

 

OK here I am back at square one. This weekend I got to looking around under the hood and I said, well let me check if I am getting fire.

I tried to take the boot off of the distributor coming from the coil. And it was stuck so I kept pulling. Then I slid the boot back and noticed that that sucker was so corroded that it had kind of welded the wire end in the distributor, and had expanded and cracked the distributor. For SURE I believed this was the problem. How can a truck run with a corroded coil wire and a cracked distributor.

So I hopped my little butt down to the parts store smiling from ear to ear. Purchased new wires, distributor and a rotor. Got home, Slapped it on, turned the key and --------- $#%&*@) !$$ ^&*%$33. Not the problem so I am back to square one….. So I took one of the boots off of the spark plug and stuck the trusty screw driver in there. It sparked.

So now that I know my ignition is ok. I turned to the fuel system. Got under the truck and undid the fuel line. Nothing--- Bone dry. Got in turned it over and nothing came out. Sounds like she’s not pumping petro.

 

Could be a bad MAF. I cleaned out my throttle body. When I went to start the truck it ran exactly as you describe. If the computer doesn't see any air coming into the engine it won't give it fuel either. Check your harness to your MAF and make sure your hose is tight. I'm not sure how to test a MAF but perhaps this http://www.net-impress.com/4runner/cd/ will help.

 

Forgive me for being a layman.- MAF?

Oh, and yes that link was helpfull. I have a Haynes manual but it's good to have extra info.

 

maf = mass air flow meter

 

I have to clarify - I had my intake hose off for the cleaning and din't even consider reconnecting it until it kept sputtering and dying. My last EFI car didn't have a MAF so it never occured to me.

 

I would say fuel pump. the same thing happened to me in Michigan in the dead of winter on the interstate in my Chevy Cavalier back in the college days while visiting my sister.

 

I would like to thank everyone for their help in this matter. This evening I’ll be back to the shade tree. The fuel pump is looking more and more like the problem. If that doesn’t fix her then I will be dragging her to a mechanic. Not to fix it ( labor = rape) but just to tell me what exactly is wrong.

 

I think you may have to drop the gas tank to get to the pump. also, replace the filter at the same time since it is probably toast too if the pump is.

 

Yeah I'll have to drain and drop the tank.. Wouldn't you know my luck she's sitting on a full tank.

 

Seems to always happen that way.