Good tip. It's the only public dyno in 100 miles. It's not a dynojet. It has an animal name. Like tiger or something. The tuner there is top notch too but lot of good that does me.

 

So the failsafe has fully learned all ranges now? Good. Although if you change nozzles it will have to relearn but thats not a big deal.

Well I could get real technical but in a nut shell with the current nozzle location the middle cylinders are going to get more meth then the ones on the ends.

This is due to the fact there is simply not enough time for the methanol to atomize into the air charge evenly. The further from the TB you can get the nozzles the better it will atomize and the more even the mixture will be.

As an added bonus it will also cool the air charge more as well.

I would also really look into changing over to metal piping at this point, you know you will be keeping it and metal is a lot better.

Also FYI, the pump may be rated at 200psi+ but with your flow rate actual pressure will be under 150psi.

Resetting the ECU can fix all sorts of things, I reset mine after any changes, let it relearn for about a week and it is then usually ready to go.

Oh and while pre-turbo injection does provide some nice benefits, particularly in a non-intercooled setup like yours. It MUST be done properly or it will wear down the turbo over time. For now I would stick to post turbo injection until everything is fully dialed in, the extra meth lines to the back around the exahust is also something you don't want to worry about right now.

 

The boost gauge jumps around a lot, but I was seeing ~13-14psi. The AFRs were rich all night staying in the high 10s, low 11s. I can't add any more boost. The MBC is maxed out. Not sure if I have bad boost leak (I doubt it), if the 1.5" i.d. PVC is too restrictive, or if I've just maxed out the hx35 with my low revving v6. I was losing by .5-1 sec compared to my competitors by the 330' mark and then reeling them back in by the 1000'.

I'm going to get some 15" alum wheels and some 235/60r15 Mickey Thompson Sportsmans (~26x9") for the rears to try to get the 60' down. I'm not wanting to get a new converter just yet. I'm also considering a small 35-50 NOS shot like a Sneaky Pete system to get things happening quicker. However, I already have the wheels and the tires are about $220, so I'll try that first.

Runner-up "Modified import" class


Brother in law runner-up in "11.50 index" class in a 2012 Camaro lfx v6 with a tune.


Also a WOT vid. At the end, I blew a rubber coupler with worm drive clamp off when I let off the throttle too abruptly. Guess I need to get silicone/tbar clamps and/or a BOV.

 

Very nice, 12's is no small feat for heavy trucks like ours.

You seriously need a converter. A small shot of nitrous will work as well though, just use it to spool the turbo and then shut it off. A converter would be the better fix though.

For the boost, the PVC needs to go anyways, it will be a restriction at these power levels.

The reason you can't raise the boost more is because the wastegate spring is too low. You can only raise the boost to approx 2x the wastegate spring unless you use an electronic boost controller with 4 port solenoid.

On the drag radials, I would personally go for the ET streets over the sportsmans. They are both proven and what the big cars run. They also are more stable and seeing as your truck is not exactly a prepped drag car, better stability is good.

They are harder on the drivetrain but since you are auto that should not be a problem.

Personally I would run 275/50/15 but then I have a seriously soft spot for the widest tire possible (which those are not even the widest possible with proper offset wheels by any means, guys run 315's off road)

 

Thank you. I weighed the night before. Race trim was 4,257lb. I could shave a little more weight removing my running boards (~50lb), and rear bumper (~50lb), but it just doesn't seem worth it.

I've got a 3lb spring in the wastegate and I'm getting 14psi out of it, so I'm sure that's the case. My concern is that if I raise my wastegate springs to, say, a 6-7lb spring when my failsafe kicks in I'll be running lean. But then again, when/if my failsafe kicks in, I'll have the visual indicators on my AFR gauge and my Coolingmist gauge. I am absolutely GLUED to the AFR gauge when I'm racing. I should add a piezo alarm too.

Oh, I was talking about the Sportman S/T street radial LOL, not the drag radial. When I get NOS or a converter I'll need the grip. Just going smaller tire alone, I don't see needing the D/Rs. Also I'd have to put heat into them, and I don't think my truck could currently spin them. Maybe with a line lock and water box. Definitely with NOS or a converter. Should I just run a cheapo street radial or go ahead and spring for the drag radials now? It will be embarrassing to pull 2.3 60' with drag radials (in it's current form), but then again I'm dragging a 4runner so what do I care

Also I'm seeing NOS or converter about a year off. I need to pump some money into my house/yard.

 

Personally I would go for the ET streets now vs spending the money twice. I know tons of guys that run them on the street and they hook up great with no burnout. If you are not having traction issues on street tires though, I would just stick with those,

I find it hard to believe that traction is an issue at the track with those 60's.Another option beisdes nitrous is going with a standalone. That would allow you to setup anti-lag which would get you off the line under boost and allow you to tune the truck, win/win. You can get standalones for as cheap as $800 now days if you wire it in yourself.

 

I wish I could use an antilag setup. I'm thinking prob just get the converter. Some of the classes I like only allow 1 power adder and I guess technically nos would be a power adder even though it would just be use as antilag.

You're right traction is not an issue whatsoever. I'll prob just get some cheap 265/50r15 street radials on my spare wheels for the track.

 

Converter is cheaper anyways if you install it yourself, you can get them redone for $200.

 

more info ^

 

This is a good local shop that did mine for $200: http://www.greatconverters.com/

They ship them as well, they had TONS of them in the shop being packed/unpacked when I was there. Good work as well.

 

That was 1000ft not 1/4 mile? IM looking at the slips....

10 sec in the 1/8


What is that like a 15 in the quarter?


Couldnt have been a 12 with that 60 foot and that 1/8 time.

 

Can't believe I missed that, must have been in a hurry that day.

 

Oh, damn you thought I was running a 12sec quarter mile? I'm not trying to trick anyone... the timeslip clearly says 1000'. I'm certain I have the power for a high 13 second quarter mile AS-IS with a proper launch- 2.0 or less. I'm trying trying to figure out which tire/wheel combo to get. That 1/8 mph should be good for mid 14s.

 

Failsafe solenoid:

2.5 gallon Devil's Own Tank and 90 degree Coolingmist adapters and nozzles:

 

If anybody goes the rear mount method, you've got to wrap your exhaust. I can hardly believe the difference in spool and lag. The turbo is now audible at 55mph cruising and the lag is just about non-existent. Plus I added a high flow cat at the same time, which should hurt spool. But the wrap totally transformed it. The cat took all the stank and rasp away. win/win



Also I made 5 passes at the track last weekend. I ran almost identical times only at 10psi, rather than the 14psi I was at last time. 330' times were better although the 60' times still suck majorly. Therefore I'm getting a small dry nitrous kit and adding a 6psi normally closed Hobbs switch to it. I'm thinking of wiring spray on WOT switch. Or I could add a push button to tap to bring the turbo up at staging lights. The lack of a transbrake makes this hard though. I have to set the ebrake, and I don't trust myself to disengage it properly every time. The 2nd gens you have to twist 1/4 turn and push in.

 

I am telling you, you would be better off with a high stall converter, you will have faster times and better performance. Bet it costs about the same as well.

 

A couple things I'm struggling with. A converter would be cheaper than nitrous actually. Going to cost about $400 for a good basic kit with Hobbs switch plus bottle fills. Also I wouldn't be able to race a couple classes anymore. v6 is generally only allowed 1 power adder. 4 cylinders can have more. I can make 2psi on the brakes right now, but what if a 2,800 stall still wouldn't allow me to build enough boost? Then what? Get converter restalled or loosened or get nitrous anyway. I know nitrous will accomplish my goals, it's an easy install, and could use in another project in the future. All this on a stock low stall tight converter that will still pull trailers all day. I could flip a coin, but the less work method is winning right now. At the end of the day it's still a workhorse and logging road toy, not a race car. Thoughts?

 

I towed no problem with my high stall converter, it runs a little hotter but worked fine. I left overdrive on so the lockup took most of the load.

Far as making boost, if the turbo spools at or below 3k right now then you should be able to build boost on the stall without much hassle. It will be significantly faster as well since you will be in the power band MUCH faster.

The stall made a HUGH difference even NA on my truck, the single biggest performance mod I did to be honest.

You stomp the gas and you go, no longer have to wait for RPM's to climb to ~3k+ so you get enough power to move.

Plus in my experience the ECU doesn't really put it into "power mode" until ~2700-3k rpm and on dynos you will notice a jump in power around there as it flips over to open loop.

Skipping that was the biggest change in performance that I noticed honestly.

Nitrous will do it as well but I think you will get far more enjoyment out of a stall.

 

Well dang, and I have some thinking to do. Thanks.

 

A fellow at Great Converters just told me there's not much he can do with the factory stall. He said he may be able to get 2200 or 2400 out of it...... hmmmm