donomite49

TA, how do you think the stall converter mod would perform in an offroad situation?
or taking off in snow or ice?
i'm wondering if it would spin the tires up easier or be less controllable in low traction situations.

i was impressed with my truck in the snow this past winter, it is as smooth and easy to keep hooked up as the 4 banger i took out.

Texas_Ace

It would be a little different naturally but once you adjusted your driving habits it would be just as tame as stock if not more so.

Until you reach the stall speed it is real linear in power delivery, the only issue would be if you slam the go pedal and it hits the stall with some momentum, then it will shock the drivetrain some.

Once my converter broke in (took about a week), it was just as drivable as stock, just revved a little higher when you were getting going. above ~45mph when the lock up kicked in though it was stock.

donomite49

it looks like it's a win win, in other words different only better.

i think it would extend the life of the trans by eliminating the soft first to second shift when you are loading the trans with power.

cdre

Nice!

Texas_Ace

Honestly besides boost, a high stall converter is the only other performance mod I would do to a our trucks, nothing else comes close to the performance/price. That assumes you can install it yourself or get a good deal on the install.

It won't really help with the 1-2 shift sadly as when you are just puttering around below the stall there is no real wear on it anyways.

When you are WOT and it shifts is when it causes problems and you will be above the stall then so no real change.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

You have a S/C laying around?! Get after it man! Why don't you have room for a turbo setup? You could sell that S/C and pulley and have enough to cover the cost of a basic rear mount setup, given that you DIY most of it. Plus you have an automatic- it's begging for a turbo!

Also if you have a day for install and $92.50 to spare, the Transgo kit performs great and I have no doubt my tranny will last much longer now.

If you turbo yours I will be super jealous. Your gen pickup or 4runner on turbo boost is probably my dream rig. I may get one someday and put my entire setup over in it. Something about a sleeper...

donomite49

TA i was talking more about the shift kit than the converter mods.
sometimes leaving a stoplight it will shift to second right when i start to give it more skinny pedal and it kinda makes me cringe a little because it takes so long to get into second because of the added throttle.

Vic i hear ya about the turbo. i would not want to try to find room for the piping as space is almost nonexistant, my exhaust crossover is underneath the truck, really tucked in nice and tight between the bellhousing and the trans(double heat wrapped)
and the intake charge pipe is what 3" and i would not want air intake from underneath anyway.
it seems to me that the older you go with toyota the less room you have to work with as far as swapping engines and such.

that leaves me with the top mount turbo kit such as the csf kit which requires the manifolds facing forward to the turbo on the passenger side and then the intercooler piping and intercooler which would most likely destroy the core support to get everything tucked in even though i could probably move my radiator back almost two inches because i located the motor mounts back ( my transfer case is in the original location)farther back than others i have seen.
i think it would just take me a long long time to fab everything the way i would be happy with. even if i pull it of the engine bay would be so congested that i would not want to work on it anymore lol.
i really like having working room under the hood, and i told myself when i did the swap that if i supercharged, with mods and tuning, and achieved my goal of 250-275
WHP that i would be happy and force myself to stop the horsepower bug from making me to spend more money...
besides i want to invest in long travel suspension, i think that is where the most fun is going to be for me and my truck. that means more room under the hood for bumpstops and an engine cage to support all that.

and yea i plan to go with the transgo trans kit thanks for the feedback.

i think i need a bigger or secondary trans cooler maybe one i can turn off for normal driving and turn it on for additional cooling for trails and towing.
i did some offroading up a kinda steep hills through some trees and stuff and the trans seemed to be warmer than i like probobly put a trans temp guage to monitor when towing and offroad. how about your trans offroad?

Texas_Ace

Ah, well my statements were about the converter. The shift kit still works great though and if making more power it is a must have to keep the transmission alive.

The rear mounted turbo would be the best bet, pulling air from under the truck is fine, even if off-roading. Look up clownmeats thread.

Trust me, 250-275whp sounds like enough but once you have it, it is not nearly enough. Also getting that with a supercharger is no walk in the park. You will need meth injection, small pulley, and a good tune to get there. The turbo gives you a lot more wiggle room if you think there is any chance of wanting more power later.

Also yes, get the biggest trans cooler you can find, doing it inline or seprate is up to you, I did mine inline for max cooling in the Texas heat.

Robb235

Just curious, but how are you getting "max cooling" while still running the stock cooler in series? Being routed through the radiator, the stock cooler is going to hold the temperature of the trans fluid very close to that of the engine coolant temp. By bypassing the stock cooler and using the B&M alone, my trans fluid temps are typically much cooler than the engine coolant, typically around 120 - 145. Hottest I've gotten it was driving up Signal Mountain where it stayed around 200 until I finished climbing the mountain, then it quickly dropped back down.

Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech

Texas_Ace

I run the aftermarket cooler after the stock cooler. So the stock cooler brings it down to reasonable temps, then the second cooler brings it down further.

During the summer the temps are VERY hot coming out of the transmission after a hard pull, so the stock cooler cools them off quite a bit before the second one has at it.

In the winter the stock cooler does what it is supposed to do and helps warm the fluid up, too cold of fluid is as bad as too hot.

Robb235

So what are your typical trans temps around town and on the highway with your setup?

Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech

Texas_Ace

Depends on the season, during the winter they are generally low 100's, much like yours.

During the 110f degree summers they are generally mid to high 100's just puttering around but will climb to 200+ when I am feeling frisky. Much better then pre-cooler temps though which would go to 250+ and that was before the high stall converter (which will cause trans temps to be higher under WOT conditions when lockup is not engaged).

donomite49

[QUOTE=Texas_Ace; The turbo gives you a lot more wiggle room if you think there is any chance of wanting more power later.[/QUOTE]


true, your right about that

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Fixed my janky wiring before starting on meth kit.



Drilled and tapped 2 ports in intake manifold for nozzles. The kit included a CM5 (6gph nozzle). I tapped and plugged another hole which I'll run a CM14 (16gph) nozzle in. Then if I need more, I can swap out the CM5 later.



Progress on the meth kit. I have zip tie stuff down, and finish wiring the solenoid. That's about all I lack having this up and running. I'm not really thrilled with the tank tap fitting. I need to put a bunch of teflon and silicone on it before filling it up. The stock tank is a little more than 2 quarts. I will find another tank to fit between the stock reservoir and the pump to gravity feed into the stock reservoir.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

1 6gpm nozzle, and one 16gpm nozzle. That's about 1400cc/min of straight meth.




I took it out to street tune it today, and got it to ~15psi and it was still in the 11.2 AFR range... So, more boost! At 15psi it felt like the back tires were trying to let loose on me, and this was from a rolling start at 50mph. At what point do I start worrying about stock internals and driveline?! I feel like I could find out the max hp of a 5vz by changing to bigger nozzles, and more boost, but I don't want to find out the hard way.

edit: the only reason I quit street tuning is because I ran out of meth. Boo. Got a drum of M1 20 miles away I need to go pick up.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Do you have any plans to get it on a dyno? Seems like your putting some serious power down.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

For sure. Local dyno guy will let me run for $100. Love to see what I'm putting it down after I lean it up a hair. Going to the drag strip next weekend too.

Texas_Ace

Sounds about right for that setup, make sure that the AFR's hold steady all the way to redline, they line to lean out up top.

A repleumed intake manifold would help a lot with the power I bet as well. The stock runners are WAY too long.

I would keep going slowly till you see how it reacts. I would also look into putting it on the dyno once you get the "tune" dialed in. Both to check the tune and to see what your powerband looks like.

Meth is GREAT stuff, allows you to get away with things you could not do with much else. Just make sure that after you have it all setup that the failsafe learns and works. Test it out in a safe manner (aka, low boost) to make sure everything works as it should.

If the meth fails you are at the point you can wave goodbye to the engine.

I would really like to see the nozzles much further upstream then that as well but you would have to move the MAF to do it.

Texas_Ace

Hopefully it is a dynojet? Price is a bit high if it is the basic 3 pulls deal but might be the going rate where you are.

If at all possible try to get on a dynojet. Also be sure to take a USB drive with you and get the runfiles for the dynos, they are 100x more useful then a printout.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

My failsafe works flawlessly and cuts boost to wastegate spring around 2-3psi. It activates in low meth or any abnormal parameter.

I'm not opposed to moving the MAF and nozzles but I can't really see major benefits to be had. That 200psi pump atomizes that 16gph nozzle very easily and completely. I would like to add another small nozzle pre-compressor. I feel I'm going to start testing the limits of the 1.5" PVC charge pipe.

My AFRs hold rock solid all the way to redline. Also my truck has never bounced off the rev limiter since that last video. I unhooked the battery shortly after that and never had a problem again.