I have a manual trans in my Volvo (which makes it slower at the track), but the turbo guys with the automatic trans have an 'accumulator' mod they do which lets the trans survive under a lot of added power.

In the shift body three's a little spring loaded piston/cylinder thing that slowly (relative term) fills with fluid during a shift, to slow the shift down. They shim the heck out of that spring, so it mostly stays in place during a shift, and the shifts get a lot more immediate and firm.

That's in an Aisan-Warner AW71, which is a pretty close sibling to the automatic trans used in the 4Runner.

 

Got my truck back from the exhaust shop. Man he did a nice job. I'll post some pictures in the daylight. I appears that the swap to a smaller diameter exhaust netted exactly the results I was after- fast spooling. It appears I can make 3-4lb boost on a brakestand. This was all determined on 1 test drive so give me a few days to take some vids and verify results. Also the smaller and lighter tires really get the motor revving into ideal range very quickly.

Also here's the timeslip I promised.

 

Yeah you need to work on the 60ft for sure, if you are able to build boost on the converter now then that should come down a LOT. With a high stall converter you would drop it even more.

ET and Trap speed are basically the same as my truck when I was still running the stock supercharger pulley :


You are making more power though as seen by the high trap speed.

After fully maxing out the supercharger the Trap was up a bit over 70mph IIRC (may have been as high as 75mph but would have to check my old logs) so a little more boost and you will be above a maxed the heck out supercharger.

 

7psi pull way too lean (video framerate screws with the wideband readout sorry)
MBC turned down to 4psi, way too lean
MBC turned all the way down, running only on the 3psi wastegate spring now, what is this stupid stuttering that I can't get rid of? It gets worse the more pulls I make.

 

I'm trying my best to blow it up, but it appears unwilling to cooperate at this point.

 

Yes, WAY too lean. Stop boosting it right away if you want it to live.

Pretty quick though, get the fueling taken care of and it will be faster.

That "stuttering" is the rev limiter. The transmission is not shifting for some reason.

 

It does feel very quick now. I mean really light and peppy from any driving condition. This is the way I imagined it would drive. I found a rather large leak from my rear 3" vband coming off the turbine housing. The leak is 4" before the wideband sensor. I'm thinking that during high velocity, it turns into a vacuum leak and I'm showing higher AFRs than it really might be. The vband doesn't have a male/female lip on it, so it's just mating to a flat surface and it's not doing well. I need to use some copper gasket stuff or find a gasket.

I had no idea that was the rev limiter. That's the "blowout" or "lean stutter" I've been talking about having since day 1. I did the motor and trans swap myself, but I hooked up all the speed sensors and I don't have any fault codes other than rear o2.

 

 

Yes, it looks like how a turbo setup should act now. Now get some fuel mods (at least a meth injection kit) and turn up the boost!

 

This weekend I installed a Transgo 340-HD2 valve body and shift kit. I have never done any transmission work before and was pretty intimidated. Turned out not too bad, but not necessarily excited to do it again.
Pan removed

Filter removed

Trans less valve body

Valve body on floor

Valve body split open

Acumulators will get new HD springs

Don't make this mistake. That little notch on has to go inside this piston notch. Ask me how I know.


The last picture is important. Make sure the little notch on the manual linkage thing (blue arrow) goes inside the notch on the piston (red arrow). Otherwise you aint going anywhere. I had to drop the pan (after sealing with Ultra Black), remove the filter and valve body one extra time before I figure it. It's written in the instructions and the YouTube video ITP has even mentions it.... I just didn't pay attention during that part I guess.

There are 4 variations of the a340 valve body, thus 4 instructions and a bunch of extra parts. It does include the drill bits needed to bore out the plate between the valve body.

You can set it up as "truck" or "hot rod". Hot rod being the more violent shifts. I went with the "truck" 1-2 shift, and more of a firmer than "truck" a little less firm than "hot rod" 2-3. There was only one suggested 3-4 shift setting. Around town it still shift very smoothly. When you get into it, it definitely shifts out much much faster! The downshifting is very nice and immediate.

The acumulators got worked over too with HD springs, and quite a few check balls were removed as per the instructions. Overall, quite a nice $92.50 investment (vs. $600 IPT modded valve body) into the longevity of my tranny.

 

I would have gone with the hot rod 1-2 shift personally as that is the gear most prone to burning cluthes since you are not generally WOT @ 90mph.

 

TBH if I had to do it again, absolutely go with Hot Rod 1-2. It still shifts very smoothly around town with my "truck" setting. There is a vid of a guy with a Lexus SC400 on Youtube that went hot rod on his and it appeared violent and on the Lexus forums he was talking about how his mom thought something was wrong with the car. Who knew. Maybe it's the difference of a lightweight car vs my 4runner which has enough driveline stuff to absorb a lot of shock. At WOT is still bangs into gear almost instantly with the "truck" setting. But yeah, go full Hot Rod if anyone is thinking of doing this.

FWIW, the "truck" 1-2 hole gets drilled at .076". "Hot Rod" gets drilled at ".096". Factory is closer to .040"

 

Does this kit achieve the same thing as the IPT?

Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech

 

The only difference is the price tag, and the DIY obviously. The kit provides for enlarging oil passages in the plate between the valve body halves. It provides stiffer springs for the acumulators, and give instructions on checkballs to remove from the maze of passages. There were no parts left untouched.

 

 

Not bad, very similar to my truck when I was on the stock pulley making ~225whp. I would figure you are around ~240whp. Pretty good for the boost.

You would GREATLY benefit from a high stall converter.

 

I can definitely see how it would help with those atrocious 60ft times. Let's see how it does with ~1200cc/min methanol!

 

Actually I still think I can make 3-4lb of boost on the stock converter if I'll just get up there and stage first. I never have enough time to build good boost before lights go green. I know I can sit up there all day and build boost until I'm ready, and the RT won't affect my ET. I have made 8 runs total, and have failed to do that one time.

I might need to install a manual rear proportioning valve and tighten up the rear brakes so I don't power thru them.

TLDR; maybe I just need to learn how to drive it :-)

 

Don't mess with the brake bias, that can get REAL hairy when driving.

Try building boost on the brakes, you don't need a track to do that but a high stall converter will help no matter what. It was night and day with my truck and the supercharger doesn't need to build boost.

I was cutting sub 2.0 60's on the street after the converter WHILE lighting up all 4 tires.

 

gotta do this to mine

i'm gettin the boost itch staring at my brand new SC and 2.1 pulley.

wish i had room for the turbo kit.

lookin good vasinvictor.