Jomoka

Holsets are physically pretty large, but they're not that large in terms of moving air. They do come on big old diesel trucks, but diesel move air differently and generally speaking their turbos will work well on cars with much smaller gas engines.

I just put a BW EFR on my Volvo wagon (93 240) - .92 AR on a 2.3L 4 cylinder. It spools at 2400 rpm, makes full boost (20 psi) by 2800, and the transient response is very fast. It just wasn't cheap. At all. It's on a short equal length top mount manifold as well.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I'd have to extend the MAF wires 10' to do that due to the location of the intake. It's just not realistic. It runs great, for what it is. It's just not what I desire.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

See that's part of what I don't understand. I have a roughly .7 or .8 A/R on the Holset currently and more displacement than your 2.3 4 cyl and I only starting to spool at 2,200 rpm and full boost at like 3,400. Still in all, 2,400 is still too high to start making power for me.

Texas_Ace

Like I said above, AR means nothing, ignore it until you have the other specs figured out. Generally better off with a larger turbine wheel and smaller AR in my experience.

Take the turbos you posted as a perfect example. I bet you thought the .63 ar was the larger turbo? Actually it is the smaller turbo of those 2.

The numbers that matter first are the compressor size, they do it in inches on those listings so they need to be converted.

The .63 is a 50mm compressor turbo with a 56mm turbine wheel.

The best matched turbos generally have a 1.05-1.15 compressor wheel to Turbine wheel ratio.

So this turbo fits right in there at 1.11 ratio.

The .57 turbo is a 54mm compressor and also a 56mm turbine (slightly larger).

It has a ratio of basically 1:1.

So between those 2 turbos the .63 is the superior turbo on paper for sure. It is both better matched, smaller and should spool better while making your power goals (which you still have yet to state).

You really need to give me exact goals before I can nail down a turbo. HP goals, spool goals, usage ect.

It works just fine post turbo, I have seen so many turbo setups with issues trying to run it before the turbo that were easily fixed by moving it after.

True the holsets are large frame but even still they are pretty good sized turbos. Most of them are in the 58-62mm size range and able to flow ~55-65lb/min of air (aka, 550-650hp). So they are pretty big compared to what he needs.

The EFR's are GREAT turbos, too bad they cost so much. They are the turbos to get right now in the small frame category if you can afford them. Second best if PTE for small framed turbos. For the midranged turbos PTE is neck and neck.

Texas_Ace

You REALLY need a high stall converter then, getting boost under 2400rpm is gonna be really hard with a remote mount setup without compromising a lot of other stuff.

I was skeptical of the high stall until I drove my first one years ago. Now I don't see me ever having an auto transmission again without it.

Also far as his car goes, he has a MUCH MUCH better turbo then you (this plays the biggest role), he also has a proper manifold, not a remote mount. These add up to much better performance.

Cheap, Performance, Easy.

Pick 2

Also, once again, AR means nothing without the rest of the specs already nailed down. AR is simply a calculated ratio based on other factors.

I have actually found that larger AR's can actually improve both spool and power. Sometimes quite a bit depending on how well the turbine itself flows.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I just want to have headroom to run 10psi (with fuel mods, someday). So, let's say 290hp very tops. More like 6-7psi and 250 wheel hp for the time being.

I want v8 grunt off the line. Something fun to drive around town. I will tow occasionally, but mostly logging road and around town rig. Forget that I said "track" ever. I will go to the track with it, but it's more for the thrill of racing twice a year, not because I want a "track truck" lol.

Start spooling, well exactly like Clownmeat build. I redline at 5,100 or so and if it pulled 7psi up to that, it would be good but not necessary.

Clear enough?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I pick cheap and easy, honestly. I'm not going to change my stall. Clownmeat was making boost at 1,200 and all in before 2,200. Can I not just copy cat that setup, which is what I've basically done anyway. I do not want to make this complicated. I just want a little extra power down low. I was fine with N/A, but this is worse really.

Texas_Ace

Yes, that helps. Some misconceptions about boost but I think I will save that for another time. In a nut shell, boost means nothing in the context we are talking about.

So 300whp power goals. Fastest spool possible and a generally do anything truck.

For those kind of goals the ".63" turbo you listed earlier is not a bad match. Might look around and do some searching to see what China turbos/ebay sellers people have the best luck with but a turbo of those basic size/specs should work nicely.

Could go a little smaller without too much hampering of the top end as well.

With that turbo you should start spooling a lot faster then you are now. A high stall converter is still HIGHLY recommended. It is literally perfect for your goals even with the smaller turbo.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

This is helpful, thank you. I wouldn't mind putting in a larger stall someday, I understand it's role and usefullness in my application (really application, really), but I just don't wanna right now. Now, when you say smaller, that's fine with me. Top end power be damned, I don't mind going smaller. Do you have a suggestion on the size of turbine and compressor wheels I should be looking for. Ebay link would be sweet

Texas_Ace

I would not get too hopped up on his results. From what I remember he was not actually seeing full spool except when brake boosting until a more reasonable mid-late 2k range.

Brake boosting is not comparable to normal driving. It is great fun when you can do it but int he real world it doesn't do much unless you are racing from a stop.

Texas_Ace

I can understand not wanting to pull the transmission, just don't underestimate the performance ramifications of such a mod. It is truly night and day with virtually no downsides except a little more heat.

For turbo, don't really want to pick a turbo listing directly as ebay turbos are so hit and miss. Don't want to pick a bum seller/turbo. That why I suggest doing some research on what seller/turbo you want to go with I can then help you nail down the best match.

I would be looking for a well matched turbo with a compressor to turbine ratio I mentioned above in the 48-50mm size range. AR size really doesn't matter all that much, something in the .63 range should work fine. Could even go larger depending on the turbine specs. Honestly that turbo you linked above is a pretty good match.

Just have no idea if it is one of the "good" china turbos or not.

Robb235

OP, check out the turbo map of the HX35:


Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

On paper my hx35 still seems to be able to do better than I'm seeing further down low. I have discovered TWO exhaust leaks. One in my home made exhaust crossover my 3.4 swap required, and one where the crossover meets the downpipe. that should significantly be affecting my spool.

I'm trying to talk myself into liking a little lag around town. Right now it drive like NA until I mash the go pedal hard. The only time it would be annoying is tryin to really get out of the hole at stoplight or at the trees. It's just simply not what I was expecting, but it might be pretty ideal after all. And may get tremendously better after fixing exhaust leaks.

Also I still don't have a boost controller so unsure how that might affect spool times, if any. Still working on getting a wideband too.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Texas_Ace can you link me to a higher stall you recommend or use? It might be a good winter project.

Texas_Ace

Lag is not as bad as people make it out to be. You just have to learn how to drive it to get the most out of it. The turbo is a little large and smaller would make it easier but it could easily be worked around with proper changing of driving habits.

The leaks can have an effect depending on how bad they are, another big factor is the remote mount. Remote mounting the turbo will always be laggier then a normal setup.

Boost controller will also speed up spool slightly but won't really lower the boost threshold.

These are the guys I took it to: http://www.greatconverters.com/

They do real good work and it was only like $200 IIRC vs IPT @ $500.

Robb235

Looks like you found the issue, that'll definitely do it. Did you get it fixed?

Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I might fix it this winter, it's a pain to remove the crossover. I will definitely update the thread when I fix any leaks and their effect on boost threshold.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

So I was having problems with spark blowout, but only during the night. Weird, right? Well turns out my alternator had a couple bad diodes. At night, with my headlights on, it caused bad enough voltage/amperage drop that the fuel pump and spark got weak. Replaced with a used $45 Denso alternator from eBay and it runs great! I'm still using BKR6E with stock gap of .032".

I got a ball and spring boost controller on it and have it set at a conservative 4psi, since I still don't have a wideband. It runs really good. Next thing I'm going to do is get a huge 24" body Magnaflow. It's still way too loud. It's annoying to drive anywhere.

runnermedic

everytihing was great until the the pvc pipes appears

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Still working great, by the way. When/if it melts I'll do something different. Just low buck building and having fun.