Go to another shop then. I had my factory stall redone and it ended up around ~2800-3000. Could get it up to 3200 if I really stood on it.

 

Hey Drew, I had to create an account just to congratulate you on how far you've taken this beast! I've been rockin my rear mount for a while and have decided to go front mount with a CX racing header kit.
I'm going to be getting rid of most of my aluminum 2" charge pipes and replacing them with 2.5" charge pipes. I'll sell them to you for cheap if you want

 

Thanks for supporting common sense my man. I'm putting my ar15 pistol build on hold to finish my turbo kit

This isn't in regards to the turbo talk at all btw

 

Sorry been in Colorado riding dirtbikes and now been trying to catch up on work and such. I might be interested. I've been hesitant to put alum on for various reasons but I realize it does look pretty bad as is. PM me what you have and what you want. I'm wanting to add a BOV too, if you happen to have a pipe with a fitting in it.

 

Skip the BOV, there is no reason or need for it and it will just reduce performance and cause headaches.

Plus with an auto there is doubly no reason for it.

 

What if I just want the cool "pshhhhhh" sound? lol seriously though I'll probably skip it. I do have a problem with the silicone adapter blowing off the throttle body if I don't carefully let the pedal back out. I don't like having to feather it. I'm using a silicone adapter on the TB, but a worm drive clamp. Maybe a t bar would work better. That compressor surge sounds pretty awesome too.

 

Thats more a factor of bad piping, get everything setup right and it should stop. More then likely it is due to the engine rocking when you let off then anything else.

 

Where in CO? I go to woodland park and rampart often to go riding. But anyway why do you have a problem with aluminum pipe??? It dissipates the heat from the turbo better than any other material you could possibly use and it lasts forever unlike plastic.

 

No problem with alum. It's ideal. I just have no problems with PVC. Also sent you a PM.

 

You'll get the same power with less PSI guaranteed. 1.5" is great for boost gauge eye candy but 2" aluminum is perfect for rear mount setups to battle lag and heat since you aren't intercooled.

 

I would rather have 2.0" tubing but I have a 1.5" body lift. The 1.5" PVC od is 1.9" and it was really tight in some places. Maybe I can crush the tubing in some areas. Where did you run your charge pipe and how much body lift?

Also I just got a couple new silicone adapters to replace a couple glued pvc 90s and repositioned my meth nozzles in front of the throttle body butterfly. Behind the butterfly the engine vacuum was sucking the prime out if the meth and making a big lag before meth kicked in. I hope by mount the nozzles on the other side, away from vacuum, this will fix that issue. Pics to come.

 

Factory lift (check out my build thread for pics gioguitardude on Tacoma word forums title: 95.5-96 Tacoma turbo PROBLEM) and it runs right over the frame after the turbo downwards then 90 degree bends straight up the side of the truck in between the body bottom and the frame. It comes up at 45 degrees into the passenger wheel well then 45 degree bends into 3" piping for the BOV and MAF. It's all 2" up until the passenger side exhaust port.

And I'm glad you moved your nozzles back. Not only will that help with unnecessary suction but it will also better equally distribute the meth between the 6 intake channels. I've heard of outer piston failures because people had the nozzles too close and all the meth was getting sucked into the middle 2/4 channels and leaning out the outers.

 

Wouldn't you be better off mounting your nozzles even further away from the throttlebody? I would think closer to the compressor outlet so that the water/methanol has more time to atomize and absorb heat from the intake charge.

Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech

 

Those^.

You want the nozzle as far from the throttle body as possible. In your case you are limited by the MAF sensor. If you put it before the MAF it will screw the readings up real good.

If you were standalone and didn't have a MAF then I would run it right at the turbo outlet or even pre-turbo.

Also the PCV pipe has much thicker walls then aluminum. You should be able to fit 2" without much hassle, it can be crushed some without much work if needed.

 

My luck ran out today. I changed plugs (every oil change now) and putting on the new couplers and repositioning the meth nozzles. I went on a cruise and tried my once-a-week WOT rip. Ignition misfire and then KABOOOOM a huge backfire thru the throttle body. Blew my throttle body coupler off and the FPR hose off. After I reconnected everything roadside I start it up and hear this...

http://vid300.photobucket.com/albums...l/IMG_6694.mp4

S%$#.

 

What do you think broke? Piston damage of some sort?

 

I'm not sure. I drove it home 5 miles like this. It runs great idles good the clicks speed up with engine RPM but don't seem to get any louder.

Just goes to show you can be all kinds of careful and still something like this can happen from one stinking misfire.

 

That sounds like a valve. Of course 14 psi is borderline crazy even with meth but that was definetely detonation of some sort. These engines are tough man... I'll bet the bottom end is fine.

 

The bottom end sounds fine. I hope it's as simple as a dropped valve or some heads off fix. What part of a bad valve would make that noise and it still run good?

What stinks is I preregistered for our local car show and burnout competition (on metal plates) is this Saturday. Such is life.

 

Maybe a lifter or push rod. Get those heads off ASAP though before more damage is caused. Usually the tone or volume of the knock changes or goes away with increased engine speed when the problem is the pistons or rings and you didn't say there was smoke so I assume it's all in your heads. Don't worry man, it's probably not as bad as it sounds.
Check each spark plug and the gap in the mean time. Never know