Please tell me about my Tacoma.

My Tacoma is a 2001 model SR5 5VZ engine automatic transmission.

I broke the transmission and replaced it on New Year's Day this year.

The mileage was 198000 miles.

What happened before the transmission broke was I heard a sound like a bad power steering pump.

Also, when the torque converter was locked up, the gear did not kick down even if the accelerator pedal was pushed to the floor.

While I was driving on the highway, paying attention to the sound, a large amount of fluid leaked from under the bell housing.

I first suspected a crankshaft seal, but the fluid on the ground was red, so I knew it was ATF.

And I took my Tacoma home in a tow truck, removed the transmission and disassembled it.

First of all, there was a lot of metal powder and needle bearing debris in the oil pan.

After further work, the bearing metal of the torque converter burned and came out stuck to the torque converter.

In addition, the seal of the torque converter had several needle bearings intertwined with it, and the ATF seemed to leak from there.

I was in a hurry, so I converted the A340 E transmission from the 1998y Hilux surf sports runner(154000km) to the A340F.

Specifically, the output shaft of the Tacoma A 340 F was transferred to the Hilux Surf A 340 E, and since the valve body was different from that of the Tacoma, the Tacoma valve body was cleaned and used.

When I checked, my Tacoma and 1998 y Hilux Surf had the same torque converter, so I used Hilux Surf's torque converter.

When all the work was completed and the Tacoma was running, there were times when a high sound like turbo or alternator noise appeared at random during the first run, but after running for a while, the sound disappeared (there might have been air in the ATF).

And while Tacoma is running smoothly now, I noticed that the gear did not kick down again while driving on the highway.

Is the valve body the cause because the valve body was diverted?

Also, is it different from the cause of the broken transmission?

It would be helpful if you could give me some information.

 

having been dealing with suspected valve body issues lately i have some questions for you:
is the VB seal complete? it's paper and tends to stick and therefore tear when removing the VB from the transmission. It has to be in one piece all over the dang thing.
you have all the springs and pistons in the correct locations and correct direction? i found that when pulling mine apart it may have been reassembled with the B0 piston inverted.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52473031
There also some small checkvalves that need to be in the correct position too.
Did you verify valvebody compatibility between the two models of transmission? I know i had a difficult time finding another one since mine was specific to the A340H.

if you split the VB and didn't get the little rubber balls back in the correct location your could be screwed

as far as it not kicking down a gear it is possible it is the solenoids, easy to replace. mine has 3 of them.

 

Thank you for your reply.

First, VB gasket is OK.

I used a new one that fits VB.

Next, the pistons were all mounted with springs facing down on both transmissions.

When it comes to the top and bottom of the piston, I look at the illustration in the parts list and it looks like the right direction.

I took a picture of the check ball before removing it.

I checked the diagram of the service manual, so it should be correct.

I suspect an electrical problem because the symptoms are random.

I have a symptom that I don't kick down when I drive on the highway, but it works perfectly when I drive in the city.

The Dodge 47RE transmission and the Chevy 4L80E transmission that I always repair at work often fail to shift due to bad PCM, but I'm a beginner about Toyota​​​​​​​