LOL, yeah i thought about making my own but lucky no welder or I might end up with a picture like that myself.

 

haha makes you wonder because that guy was proud enough of his work to post a picture somewhere. bad welds aside the general design has major flaws lol look at how far that first cylinder has to travel before it gets to the turbo.

 

Ok, this is really starting to bug me. That transmission fluid leak i was telling ya'll about earlier, it is getting worse. I had figured it might just be from how I was flogging it real hard the other day but it seems no such luck.

Anyone have any idea what might be leaking at the top of the transmission and only seem to have a problem under WOT conditions?

 

Looking over the FSM, I am not seeing anything obious that would put fluid on top of the transmission.

There is a "plug for Hydraulic test" that seems to be on top of the transmission but it is at the back near the transfer case. I am seeing fluid on top of the transmission on the bell housing. Can't figure out where it might be coming from.

Need to figure this out.

 

Bellhousing gasket? is it actually leaking or just seeping out?

 

It is leaking. Enough so that the entire bottom of my truck was covered in the stuff before i washed it off.

I just can't figure out why the leak would start at the top of the transmission.

I did some more tests a little bit ago, can't figure it out.

Drove out to my test area normally. Checked for any leaks, none.

Made a loop beating the heck out of it. Checked for leaks, still none

Realized that When it leaked before I was shifting the tranny manually and thus allowing it to engine brake. So i made a loop beating on it again and engine braking. Once again no leaks.

I then gave up thinking maybe i overfilled the tranny and it just spit out the excess or something. Drive home normally, check it once i get home and there is a little tranny fluid on the top of the transmission. No real signs anywhere else.

Where the heck is it coming from and why is it coming??

 

Just did my yearly tune up, changed out all the fluids and gave her the yearly washing. Looks all nice and clean!

After changing the transmission fluid I have not had it leak again, gonna wait and see what happens. Due to my headers I can't check the trans fluid while the motor is running (dipstick is covered by the ISR box). I went ahead and ordered a piece of pipe to remove the ISR so i can check the fluid properly. I think it might have been overfilled.

I also got word that the bypass valve replacement is done and on it's way to me, can't wait for that.

I ran some seafoam though the motor along with some marvel mystery oil and using my meth injection system to inject 2 gallons of water/meth through the motor to steam clean it.

After that it seems to be a lot happier. Running leaner now, i think because it is running better.

So i upped my methanol nozzle size from 10gph to 14gph., the truck liked this for sure. Might even go bigger then that. If i could find nozzles for cheap i would even consider adding a direct port setup on top of the nozzle pre-SC.

 

Great info here. Keep up the good work so I can clone your complete final tuned setup!

 

LOL, not sure if there will ever be a "final" version of this but I might finish this stage at some point. Been thinking about going turbo lately.

Thinking about it REALLY REALLY hard.

After playing around with the 14gph nozzle and disconnecting the FPR to lean me out some more so i can inject more methanol. Combined with fixing the boost leak and thus making more power I think i can make use of more methanol so i just ordered a 1000cc (15.5gph) nozzle.

The truck LOVES methanol, the more the better. Will see how this works out.

I also have to say that the seafoam and marvel mystery oil seem to really be helping. I have suspected I have stuck rings on a few cylinders ever since i got the truck as a few cylinders have been a little low on compression.

These seem to be freeing them up some, it seems to be running smoother now. Gonna change the oil again in a week or 2 and then run a compression test to see if it has really helped any. Will report back.

Never been a big fan of putting this kind of stuff in your oil, still not if your motor is otherwise in good condition. In this case though it seems to be helping.

 

Well, i can report back on the seafoam and marvel mystery oil treatment.

Just got in from pulling all the spark plugs and running a compression test, my motor is now like new! Compression was consistent across the board at ~190-195psi.

Before this treatment my compression was around 180 on the good cylinders and it had 3 low cylinders that were between 135-145psi. I had figured it was stuck rings and it seems that the seafoam/marvel oil were not lieing when they say they can free them up.

Have to say i am VERY impressed, i did not expect these kinds of results. I have ran 4 or 5 compression tests on this motor before today, all came back with similar results like i states before.

It starts a lot faster now and overall just runs smoother. Seems to have a bit more power now as well.

Had a tire blow out today, my tires are so old they are literally falling apart. If anyone has some tires they are not using I will take them off your hands lol. Need some new ones bad but just can't swing the $800+ for a complete set.

When i do finally get a new set of tires I get to have a lot of "fun" with the old ones first lol.

 

Did you figure out the tranny leak?

 

I think the tranny was overfilled. After changing the transmission fluid and removing the ISR so i could check the fluid properly it has not done it again yet.

I have not really beat on it as hard as i did before though, so not 100% sure it is fixed yet but it looks that way.

The by-pass valve is supposed to get here today, can't wait to see what that does for me!

Oh, and like I predicted removing the ISR had no performance gains at all. Not even any extra sound either, maybe just a tad louder. It does clean things up and make the engine bay look pretty though. For the price and how easy it is i guess that is worth it alone.

Also got a new video uploading now, comparing a few methanol injection nozzles. Nothing amazing but tried a few new things with the camera.editing that i think turned out pretty good. Each video is improving slightly IMO.

Now if i could just keep them shorter, that seems to be a tall order lol.

I will be making a new video update for the 4runner before too long as well.

 

Been looking at the 7th injector for a long time, now I see this Meth injection and am intrigued! I wish there was some company out there like URD that would have a kit, built specifically like the 7th injector kit for vehicles. I have a 97 T100 with the 2nd generation TRD S/C and hate the ping, so am very careful and I have the 5 speed so I just about always know when to be careful. I also have the K&N cold air intake so I wonder if that would make nozzle placement different? Do you go through much Meth? I would go with the best kit possible since I was going to get the 7th injector kit any way. I also want to put on the headers, I've looked at the Doug Thorley, but the Gibsons look like they would be easier, any thoughts?

 

Like i have said before, the meth injection OWNS the 7th injector in every way from a performance standpoint. The only catch is being able to get methanol.

Generally I am going to recommend that you just buy a barrel of methanol (about $160 here) if you go this way. That will last you years but this way you won't run out. If you have access to a local methanol supply for cheap by the gallon you can do this as well but after a year i am just buying a barrel myself since it is easier and i don't have to think about it for years. Actually takes up less space then 5 gallon gas cans for me lol.

So if you can get methanol then yes i would go meth injection all day long.

The kit i am running now is darn near made to do this. Works great, just as tunable as the 7th injector with a much larger margin for error.

Total is $585 IIRC for the setup as well. You can buy a barrel of methanol and STILL come out ahead of a 7th injector kit. Will be set for years too.

It is made up of this: http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=1005

And this: http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=cmgs

Working together. Works great for me so far.

Now for how much meth i actually use. It depends on how you drive it. I loaned the truck to my dad awhile back and he hardly used any meth, i think he would have got 2 tanks of gas to 1 washer resivor of meth.

Me on the other hand i generally got about 1 tank of gas per meth fill up. With the new larger nozzle i am using now it is going a little faster. Since you have a T100 you could mount a big 5 gallon tank in the bed and have plenty of methanol for a good long time.

 

Well, yesterday i got in my replacement bypass valve, had a few minor issues getting it to fit and it doesn't seal perfect but a lot better then the old one. Depending on how well it works I know of another place to order one and give them the right specs this time IF it is worth it. Thats about the last thing I have to improve power with this setup. It is maxed out.

I also just made another video going over the different methanol injection nozzle options for anyone interested. Tried some new camera work and editing on this video. I think the slow mo at the end turned out pretty good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPvL0NFzFTs

Planning on making a few more videos of the 4runner pretty soon, possibly dynoing it again to see what i am making exactly. Subscribe to my channel if you want to see those.

 

Thanks for the quick response! I'm still weighing out all my options and cost etc. Seems like the methanol method is a little more time consuming as far as upkeep and buying methanol. I did find that McMaster-Carr sells it in 5 gallon cans, but it's almost $10.00 a gallon from them. I also looked at Aquamist and it is about as much or more than the 7th injector.
On headers again, were yours a pain to install? I've heard the cross over tube is a pain to get in. Are yours also ceramic coated? Did the Doug Thorley just bolt up to the existing down pipe? Sorry for so many questions, just want to do it right the first time

 

You buy methanol locally or by the 55 gallon drum, any other way is going to cost you a ton. Like i was saying here I can get a 55 gallon drum for $160-$175 depending on where i get it.

That added to the $580 for the kit and you are still much cheaper then a 7th injector kit and set for years. Look up local race shops/drag tracks/circle tracks/oil or chemical supply company's to find the methanol locally.

If that doesn't pan out try calling VP and/or sunco. They have dealers all over, you can generally find methanol around most bigger citys.

For the headers, they were a royal pain to install for sure and no matter what headers you get they will be since most of the work is getting the old ones off without breaking anything, including yourself.

Once you have the stock stuff out the install is not that bad. The doug thorleys bolted up fine, not real hip on their flanges but otherwise they installed fine. Didn't have any major problems with the y-pipe, stock or DT.

All the headers have to be welded in some form to the stock exhaust as the Cat(s) are build into the stock y-pipe. any exhaust shop should be able to do that.

Mine were not ceramic coated, i could not afford that at the time. They have held up quite well even with the chrome coating though.

The performance gains from this is noticeable and and worth the money, just not sure if the headache is worth it.

 

Have you looked at the Gibson header? They bolt up to the head in place of the stock manifold and right to the existing cross over pipe. No welding and you can get the ceramic coated from Amazon for less than $500.00 and free shipping.

 

Link? Doesn't sound worth the time and effort for that though. If you are going to remove the stock manifolds (by FAR the hardest part, took me 2 days to remove them, only an afternoon to install the new ones) then you might as well just replace it with the best you can get.

the y-pipe is a restriction, you want that replaced. The DT is a lot better.

 

In other news i just test drove it after doing the bypass valve replacement, the combo of the valve and cooler temps netted me right about what i figured, 1psi of boost.

Was boosting high 10.6-11psi today! Think I am going to go ahead and order up the better plate now that i know it works, only $20.

Then going to do one last check for boost leaks and fine tune it for the extra boost.

And after all this, I think i am officially tapped out on power I can get out of the TRD supercharger. Butt dyno says ~250-260whp.

With that in mine I have a choice to make. Leave it as is, Get a turbo, go with a larger supercharger.

I have connections that could make any of the above happen IF there was enough interest they could make a kit as well.

Maybe i should make a new thread going over these options to see if anyone is interested.

The turbo kit would be able to spool very fast and make as much power as the engine could handle. Could even go remote mount kit for cheaper, slower spool but also nice power.

The supercharger kit would work the same as the TRD only with a larger supercharger. With the SC we plan to try (M90 or M112) power figures would go up to 400whp-500whp being possible instead of 300whp tops. It would also make as much power at 5psi as a TRD unit maxed out I bet.

Not sure what i want to do yet.