I've got so many redundant grounds that I don't see what the difference is, my frame is grounded to the body, the body is grounded to the block, the block is grounded to the battery and body is grounded to the battery, etc....

 

Agreed.

My LC-1 is working great; pretty sure I some what followed the grounding instructions, but thanks to this thread I'll double check it.

 

Yes, everything is grounded to everything else so in most cases there won't be a noticeable difference.

I think the idea is that since the O2 sensor is plugged into the exhaust (and therefore the block) you want to ground to the same hunk of metal so they both use the same ground wire to the battery.

At least that's my theory. Hey, I'm an ME not an EE

 

I just called Innovate tech support to ask about all this. I also checked all the ground points in the 2002 4Runner FSM. I only have one ground point on the motor by default. Technically any bolt on the motor "can" be a ground, but the only one by default is the one beside the diag port.

Since the all the wires need to run to the cab to connect to the gauge, I asked Innovate support if it's OK to ground to one of the internal ground points (in other words something other than the engine block). The guy said if there are good ground points in the cab that'll be fine, but if there are problems with the gauge to move them to the block as those were considered clean grounds (less electrical noise I presume).

I'll look for another easily accessible bolt on the block. If I don't find one, I'll ground to the two ground locations behind the driver's side kick panel where the fuse box and 4WD ECU appear to be grounded.

I'm with you guys, I can't see how it makes any difference since the entire electrical system is all tied together, battery to body, to block, to frame.

 

I will just mention that I have an extra ground that the Taco didn't have. The 3VZ is grounded from the firewall to the intake manifold with some kind of noise filter in between and I kept that ground in place after swapping in the 5VZ.

 

I went out and looked around the engine bay. There are two alternate ground locations within 6" of the ground point by the Diag port. One is the point where teh diag port mounts to the intake plenum. This particular point will cross over to the SC as well. I may use one of those. I'm not sure at this point, but I wanted to throw it out for anyone following this thread and looking for ideas.

 

Received my Nordskog custom AFR gauge today to go along with the LC-1. Now I have all the gauges and can get those installed. I gotta say Nordskog had the best customer service of any company I've ever dealt with. Even the receptionist was knowledgeable about their products and could field questions.

The standard DB gauge that Innovate offers is either red or blue LEDs with a black bezel. Nordskog made me one with a silver bezel (to match my other autometer gauges) and green LEDs (to match the stock dash illumination). The cost was $10 over the standard red gauge.

Finally, I had been considering installing a traction aiding device such as a True Trac in the rear differential at some point to help get the SCer power to the ground. A 4Wheel Parts store just opened in my area and is offering 50% off installation, but I have to put the deposit down today (end of April) to get the discount. That would make the install $175 and the True Trac $387. That's $562 installed vs. over $700. I called Eaton and they said there should be no problems with the SCer and True Trac as they run this same unit in one of their drag cars which puts out substantially more power than a SC'd 4Runner.

What'dya think?

 

That sounds like a heck of a deal to me. I had sam's offroad quote out the truetrac for me and the part was about 10 bucks cheaper but the install and all the labor pushed it close to $900 after new bearings and oil stuff. I still need to do this as well, haven't decided if i should just get a ARB locker instead though.

 

If you off road much the ARB will be much better. My 4Runner is mainly a street driven vehicle, so the True Trac is better for me. I'm mainly getting it to help with traction after the SC.

Whatever you do, don't get one of those automatic lockers. I had a Lockright in my 1997 Tacoma and hated the bad on road manners.

 

Yeah I like the truetrac had one in my sc'd 3rz tacoma. Most likely go that route as I'm on road alot more too, but would be nice to have a selectable locker too...

 

Went ahead and pulled the trigger on the TrueTrac. Got the part for $387.99 and the install for $175. I'll schedule the install in a couple weeks.

 

how do the trd lsd's compare?

 

Not near as good from what people who've had both say. The TRD LSD uses clutches, the TrueTrac uses gears so it's more firm when it actuates and nothing to wear out. Both are completely un-noticeable by the driver/vehicle occupants accept on icy or very snowy situations. In those instances you'll feel the traction of both tires coming and going as wheel spin starts to occur. You'll also be more likely to walk the back end out in snow or ice as well, so that's something to be aware of.

I had a full automatic locker in my Tacoma, and actually found it better in ice and snow as the rear end was more predictable for me and I knew when it was going to slide out and could steer the vehicle with it if I wanted. I hated the fully automatic locker on the street though. Noisy, clunky, and jerky in parking lots and slow turns. Your mileage may vary.

 

Well im back highjacking again

Got my kit and everything else in the mail today, This look like everything??



*note* I didnt put all the cables in the pic.

 

supercharger?

 

Even though I did not have luck with it, did you get the ESC1 to be able to alter your AFR's in closed loop?

 

Nothing is installed yet, its in the works. The bearings on the S/C finally gave way and are squealing like a dying pig. So the s/c is off to be rebuilt at magnuson, hopefully sending it out tomarrow (wednesday). Then as its being rebuilt Ill be installing the kit and goodies

 

The ESC1 is a pile of crap that you have a never ending battle with!

 

Oh now Johnny, I'm sure that you, Gregg and I are just doing something wrong. That's what Steve keeps telling us ya' know.



It does seem to work for Brian (mastacox) (or was it Dale?), but there's definitely a long track of trouble around it.

 

Hey midiwall, Where is the best place to put the bung for the new o2 sensor? a 6 or so inchs just before the cat will be fine correct?