It is? Let's see a closer pic of that.

 

Sorry to highjack again,

Midiwall, or anyone else that can answer this. What else do i need to get other than the URD Kit, i thought the kit comes with evertyhing needed to support the s/c. I hear i need to get an obd II reader and some other o2 sensors.... I thought they sell everything that is needed in the kit... Im confused now.

 

Oh there are lots of different optional goodies, how much you looking to spend?

I'd say bare minimum you'd need the OBDII code reader and wide-band air/fuel gauge, just so you can tune the FTC.

 

... and a dual-gauge pod to hold the boost and AFR gauges, and it's probably a good idea to get an auxiliary fuse block to power all of the extra stuff you'll be plugging in.

 

The URD kit is just what's needed to FUEL the SC properly. In order to tune it you'll need:

Wide Band AFR (like the Innovate LC-1)
A gauge for the Wide Band AFR (like the Innovate DB gauge or XD-16)
A scan tool to read the OBD-II system to know when you're in closed and open loop (like the BR-3)
Some type of pod or fixture to hold the AFR gauge if you want to permanently mount it.
And a laptop to interface with the Piggyback computers to control the new fuel system.

If you want data logging to help you tune the system, then you'll want an Innovate LM-1 as well, but that's optional.

 

I'll try to take another later tonight, but it's that bundle of connections RIGHT beside the fuse box in the picture I posted. Looking at the FSM, it appears the large box had been replaced with a small solenoid.

Can someone post a pic of how the line going to your EVAP can is "T'd"? That's the only part of this I'm having trouble figuring out. I don't see why it would need to be T'd at all, as mine just runs to a port on the stock intake. Seems it would be the same on the SC.

 

The LC-1 is also capable of being used in a data logging setup... semantic details

 

How? Unless you buy one of the more expensive widgets from Innovate to read the outputs.

 

Sweet, thanks guys. Just got off the phone with Brian from URD a lil bit ago. Came up with a set price for everything i need to program and make it all run correctly and safely. And i wont be needing the LM1 unit for its built into their new AFR unit or something along those lines.

 

Just got off the phone with TRD regarding the vacuum lines going to EVAP. I don't have to do anything with the "T". That is for vacuum actuated 4WD. Mine's electric, so I just unplug the vacuum line from the stock manifold and plug it into the port on the SC. Simple enough.

 

The two units you mention do completely different things... are they planning to add wideband support into a new FTC or something?

 

You should probably do a little more research as it sounds like you're not too sure on everything. I'm sure Brian gives good advice and can steer you in the right direction, but this isn't a "plug and play" deal. You need to have a firm understanding of what you're getting into.

I've done about 3-4 months of research and I'm just finally getting a good grasp on everything.

 

Looks like you have your answer. Here are a few before and after of my '02 that may still be useful.

Before:


After:


Before:


After:


Detail:


Overview:


Before:


After:

 

Many thanks. I'm glad to hear from someone else with an 02. The install looks to be easier on later years.

Any caveats I should be aware of? How long have you had yours installed? Any fuel mods or anything?

 

I'm going to be doing my gauge installs pretty soon. The LC-1 instructions say to ground to the block at two different locations, one for the main grounds and the other for the heater ground. I see a ground lug on the driver's side next to the data port. Anyone know of a good second location on the block for ground?

 

I don't remember how exactly I grounded mine, but it wasn't to the block... I'll have to look into that but it seems to be working fine right now

 

You might wanna double check that. I took a read through the forums over at www.innovatemotorsports.com and found a ton of these things failing due to improper grounding.

 

I never understood the need for 2 different grounds, but IIRC, I ran one to a main ground cable I had going straight to the battery (-) and the other to the dash support metal near the factory radio grounding. The whole time wondering what magical electrical concept my brain was missing out on.

 

I read several of Klaus' posts over on innovate (he's the guy that designed the thing I guess) and apparently the separate ground it to avoid noise to the LC-1 through the heater element of the sensor. I figured I'd might as well do it like they said if possible. I was gonna use that block ground on the driver's side for one of them, but I'm not sure of another lug on the block that can be used. I'm sure if I search around I'll find one but was hoping someone here had already done that.

 

Well I'll take a glance under the hood after work and see what I did. I know it's grounded well, just not to the block IIRC. Might be either to the frame or straight to the battery.