I can jump in here. The best place is before the first cat, make sure it's near the top of the pipe (10-2 position) to avoid any condensation that may form.

 

How many miles did you get out of the SC before the rebuild?

 

I bought it used from a friend and it was on his truck a good 90+k miles on it, and i put 10k on it, and im not sure if if the oil was even changed at all. Im pretty sure it was because it was sent into a race shop to see if it was still good cause the dealer told him after the accident that the s/c was bad, and it came back fine. They striped it down so i dont think they would have used the old oil in it.

 

When you say before, does it have to be a certain measurement. Or can it be the 6 inchs i was saying away from the cat(i only have one). or do you mean anywhere before the first cat between the the downpipe and the cat?

 

Yeah the A/F sensor calabrator seems to be working fine for me, but I have a 2001 with a WB A/F sensor too.
Maybe the problem is with faking the older O2 sensors.

 

Yeah - I know your pain. However, I have been having great luck with the "02 adjust" feature on the MAP-ECU2 I am running. No locking up of the 02, no stumbiling and nice, steady afr's in closed loop!

 

Mine is right in front of the stock sensor:

 

Yeup, that'd be just peachy. You're basically aiming for a point after the collector and before the cat, and try to keep it out of the way of the regular sensor (and, keep the regular sensor out of the way of it).

Oh, and like Speedy mentioned, you want to mount it so that the business end is pointing down into the pipe.

 

I have two cats on my 2002 model. Mine is installed just before the first cat (maybe 4" or so). You will be fine to install your wide band AFR sensor anywhere in the pipe ahead of the cat. You're just looking to sniff the exhaust gasses as they come from the motor, prior to any mucking with them by the cat.

 

Roger that, And yeah I know to have it from either the 10 - 2 position. but good call on having it not int the way for the stock o2 sensor. Gonna have a shop do it for $20 so as soon as i get that done, off comes the supercharger. i might be able to get it to UPS before they close tonight too. Ill let you guys know on the shipping price.

 

Well, I got good news and 2x bad news.....

Well start off with the good news. The s/c is off and on its way to Magnuson and should be there by thursday. And the postage was only $50.35 with $1000 insurance on it.

Bad news #1. Was on the way to the muffler shop, made it about a mile or 2 from my house and all of a sudden a huge power loss, then belts sqealing up a storm.... The Bearings in the s/c seized up

Bad news #2. Never made it to the muffler shop to have the bung put in for the o2 sensor.

So in conclution, time to start wrenchin'

 

crap!!!!
WHen mine did that....
Dead S/C

Hope yours is not as bad as mine

 

That looks like how it sounds when you try to rotate it by hand. but i sent mine to magnuson for an overhaul. they should replace the rotors if needed.

 

I just thought I'd point out that I don't have the ESC1, and don't plan on ever getting it based on stories I have heard here. I'm using the built-in oxygen sensor clamp on my FTC1-E, which could explain why things "seem" to be working for me. Two different implementations, two different sets of results.

 

What do you mean by "locking up of the O2"?

I seem to experience a sporadic symptom where the ECU gives up on reading the O2 sensor and just dumps fuel at about 9.0:1; but it happens only during engine warm-up or here or there when driving in part-throttle boost for long periods of time (like driving up a mountain)...

 

The FTC-E is actually just a regular FTC with the ESC1 built into it. I have tried both and neither work on my 99. I worked with Gadget on it for a couple months trying a number of different things and never could get it to work right. However, there are some people. like midi said, that it seems to work for. I unfortunatley was not one of them.....

 

OK guys I need some ideas. I've got to get these gauges installed, but I keep bumping into little hiccups.

I bought an Autometer Full Sweep Electric tranny temp gauge. When I called Autometer for info, the guy told me the sender was self grounding, meaning I could install it into a rubber line and not have to run an additional ground wire from the sender to the block.

I begin reading over the install instructions and notice they say to use teflon tape on the sender threads to seal it to the brass T I'm going to put in the soft rubber line. I called Autometer again to confirm this was correct as it would seem to me that the teflon tape would prevent any contact with the T so I wanted to ask about that ground again. This time the guy tells me that I DO have to run a ground wire from the sender to block unless I mount it on a hard line.

So, long story short, any suggestions on how to affix a ground wire? The brass T isn't thick enough to drill and tap a hole. The sender doesn't have any screws or anything, it's just a brass plug with two wires coming out of it.

I was thinking I could silver solder a wire to the outside of the brass T but that doesn't seem too durable.

My other thought was to silver solder a nut to the brass T and use that to affix a screw and ring terminal, but I wasn't sure how durable that would be either.

I need some ideas.

 

[QUOTE=mastacox;50522672]What do you mean by "locking up of the O2"?

I seem to experience a sporadic symptom where the ECU gives up on reading the O2 sensor and just dumps fuel at about 9.0:1; but it happens only during engine warm-up or here or there when driving in part-throttle boost for long periods of time (like driving up a mountain)...[/QUOTE

I had the same symptoms plus some. After my ecu would dump fuel like you described while in part-throttle boost, it would keep dumping it even after I got back into vacuum. Just a slight blip of the throttle would cause me to dive down into the 10's. Then, as I would come to a stop, I would lean way out and stall. This would happen consistently with the esc hooked up. As soon as I bypassed it back to stock, everything ran perfect (except for being at 14.7:1 in part throttle of course).

 

Hey start your own thread! Oops it is your thread Does your sender have 1 or 2 wires going to it? If 1 then yes, you need a ground. I think my sender block might have enough room to drill and tap a small hole for a very small screw. I got it at Ace Hardware




Or maybe you could wrap the ground wire around the threads and solder and wrap it with tape and a zip tie?

 

[QUOTE=Greedy;50522680]Is the ECU still in closed loop when that happens?